San Miguel de Allende’s water crisis

The region of San Miguel de Allende has always relied on its short rainy season for most of its water. However, climate change is putting everyone at risk, while rural farming communities feel the highest impact.

It’s hard to imagine, but the arid landscape around San Miguel de Allende was once flourishing with forests that attracted rain and cooled the land. These forests were a vital part of the Laja River watershed, playing a key role in replenishing aquifers and maintaining steady rainfall. 

Over time, however, overdevelopment, drought and erosion have destroyed much of this tree cover. Without the cooling effect of the forests, the exposed land absorbs heat, disrupts rainfall patterns and becomes even drier, a destructive cycle known as the “watershed death spiral.”

Abandoned reservoirs and overexploited wells

Another key factor contributing to the region’s current water crisis is the shift in how water is sourced. Rural farming communities once depended on rainwater reservoirs to endure the long dry season. However, with the arrival of electricity in the late 20th century, communities began drilling deep wells, which quickly became their main water source. As a result, rainwater reservoirs were abandoned and left to deteriorate.

Large-scale agribusiness has severely overexploited deep wells, depleting aquifers faster than they can replenish. As a result, many wells have already run dry, and the remaining water is often polluted with toxic levels of arsenic and fluoride. This contamination poses serious health risks and further exacerbates the region’s water crisis.

Tikkun Eco Center and Agua Para la Vida

Non-profit Tikkun Eco Center is stepping in to tackle this crisis. Through its Agua Para la Vida project, the Tikkun team focuses on restoring and reforesting water reservoirs to improve environmental and community health.

In 2022, Tikkun set out to restore the historic reservoir in the San Miguel neighborhood of San José de Gracia, a resource that had served four villages for over 200 years. Once a vital water source, the reservoir had deteriorated into little more than a mud flat after years of neglect. When the local aquifer could no longer meet the community’s needs, villagers were forced to ration water, receiving only two hours of well water per week per family, barely enough for personal use, let alone farming or livestock.

Breathing life back into the land

In just one month, Agua Para la Vida removed over 1,400 truckloads of silt and soil from the San José reservoir. Later, they raised the reservoir’s edges, reinforced the dam and installed water management systems. Thanks to these efforts, the San Jose de Gracia reservoir is now capable of holding 45 million liters of water.

The excavated soil didn’t go to waste: it became the foundation for reforestation. Tikkun donated over 100 native tree saplings and hundreds of magueys, while the San Miguel Municipal Ecology Department (DMAS) contributed an additional 1,000 native trees and cacti that were all planted by volunteers. When the rains came, the reservoir filled and Tikkun stocked it with tilapia from their own ponds.

A global movement for ecological restoration

Tikkun Eco Center’s work is part of a global movement to heal degraded ecosystems. Restoring local forests and promoting sustainable agricultural systems is essential for reversing the damage caused by deforestation and desertification. Around the world, communities facing similar challenges have achieved remarkable success.

In Asia, Africa and Australia, reforestation efforts and sustainable water practices have turned barren landscapes into thriving ecosystems. These projects bring back green spaces and improve food security, water availability and local economies, offering hope and inspiration for regions like San Miguel de Allende.

The recipe for healthy ecosystems

Tikkun Eco Center specializes in restoring reservoirs and laying the foundation for regenerative agriculture. Their approach includes keeping fields green year-round with cover crops and intercropping trees. Permaculture methods guide their work, transforming fields into food forests that blend trees with deep-rooted grasses to create a cooler, more biodiverse ecosystem. This approach captures carbon, provides habitats for bees and beneficial insects, restores eroded soils and improves rainwater absorption.

Scaling up the impact

Tikkun Eco Center continues to expand its impact by partnering with experts and securing funding for vital projects. With support from the Rio Arronte Fund for Natural Resources and the San Miguel Community Foundation, Tikkun has teamed up with local water-focused NGO Caminos de Agua and Querétaro-based Inana to restore the community reservoir of Los Torres, another San Miguel neighborhood.

This work is just the beginning. The region has hundreds of abandoned reservoirs. Scaling up these efforts could transform the area. Tikkun’s holistic model of ecological repair has shown what’s possible. Still, more action and support are needed to expand the scope and reach of these efforts.

Visit TikkunSanMiguel.mx to learn more about how you can help.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: sandragancz@gmail.com

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Jiménez is known as “El Rey” (The King), for the title of one of his most iconic songs. This epic anthem has helped countless Mexicans rise back up with unapologetic pride when life has knocked them down. In “El Rey,” Jiménez boldly proclaims, “Con dinero y sin dinero hago siempre lo que quiero y mi palabra es la ley. No tengo trono ni reina ni nadie que me comprenda, pero sigo siendo el rey”: With or without money I always do what I want, and my word is the law. I have no throne or queen nor anyone who understands me, but I’m still the king.  

The macho way of letting go

If you ever need help overcoming a failed romance, ask the mariachi to play “Te Solté la Rienda.” “Como al caballo blanco,” the first verse begins, “le solté la rienda, a ti también te suelto y te me vas ahorita.” The same way I dropped the white horse’s reins, I’m letting you go, and you should leave immediately.

Then goes on to say: “Y cuando al fin comprendas que el amor bonito lo tenías conmigo, vas a extrañar los besos… y has de querer mirarte en mis ojos tristes que quisiste tanto.” And when you finally understand that you had beautiful love with me, you’ll miss the kisses… and you’ll want to look into my sad eyes that you loved so much. 

Dialing up the drama

In the guilt trippingly melodramatic “Pa’ Todo el Año,” he sings: “Si te cuentan que me vieron muy borracho, orgullosamente diles que es por ti / De hoy en adelante, ya el amor no me interesa. Cantaré por todo el mundo mi dolor y mi tristeza porque sé que de este golpe ya no voy a levantarme”: If they tell you they saw me very drunk, proudly say it’s because of you. From now on, I’m not interested in love / I will sing about my pain and sorrow all over the world because I will never recover from this blow. 

The rise of the charro icon

Jiménez’s music is closely related to the events that surrounded his life. Born in 1926 in Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato, he grew up in a country working to rebuild its identity after the Revolution. The figure of the charro, a farmer wearing a wide-brimmed hat and fitted suit, became a key unifying symbol in postrevolutionary Mexico. Famously performing in charro garb, Jiménez played a major role in strengthening this figure as a national icon, representing bravery, self-reliance and pride for rural people.

José Alfredo’s own background, however, was far from rural. The house where he was born, now a museum, reveals that he came from an upper-middle-class family. His father was the first person to open a pharmacy in Dolores Hidalgo, but his death in 1936, shattered the family’s comfortable lifestyle.

After his father’s passing, at the age of 11, José Alfredo moved to Mexico City to live with his aunt and earn a living. There he began composing his first songs, whistling the melodies, as he never had any formal musical education. He dropped out of high school and formed a trio that played in bars for a few pesos. 

Jiménez’s life took a significant turn in the late 1940s when an established musician discovered his talent. Within a few years, his voice was heard on the radio across the country, and he quickly became one of Mexico’s most celebrated singers and composers. 

A monument to a legend at his final resting place

Jiménez was famously a heavy drinker, and the nightlife fueled his creativity. While drunk, he would grab whatever paper was nearby and start writing lyrics with remarkable ease. Unfortunately, years of alcohol abuse led to cirrhosis of the liver, and in 1973, he passed away in a Mexico City hospital at the age of 47. Despite his early death, his music continues to resonate across generations five decades later.

You can visit his final resting place in the municipal cemetery of Dolores Hidalgo. His tomb is an artistic masterpiece, featuring a colorful charro hat and sarape mosaic. At the base is inscribed, “Life is worthless. It always begins with tears and ends with tears. There, just beyond the hill, you can see Dolores Hidalgo. I’ll stay there, countryman, there’s my beloved town.”

His mausoleum is the only one in the cemetery facing west, a tribute to his song “La media vuelta,” where he sings: “Si encuentras un amor que te comprenda y sientes que te quiere más que nadie, entonces yo daré la media vuelta y me iré con el sol, cuando muera la tarde”: If you find a love that understands you, and you feel they love you more than anyone, then I’ll turn around and leave with the sun when the evening dies.

The legacy of José Alfredo Jiménez is a national treasure. His songs give voice to our emotions and the pride that holds us together. For many Mexicans, his music is a favorite form of therapy. He provides a safe space for us to feel our feelings and know that we’re not alone. In a very real sense, José Alfredo Jiménez understands us all.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: sandragancz@gmail.com

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Check out the best holiday offerings in the pearl of the Bajío. with our guide to what’s on in San Miguel de Allende in December.

Alberto Robledo Cuarteto: Jazz y Música Latinoamericana

Experience original music by Alberto Robledo, widely regarded as San Miguel de Allende’s finest saxophonist. His compositions intertwine the rhythmic vitality of Latin American music, the refined structure of classical traditions and the soulful depth of the blues. These pieces, performed by the musician’s quartet, are crafted exclusively for the theater stage, far removed from the distractions of bar performances, to create a focused atmosphere that invites you to fully immerse in the concert’s emotional journey.  

Robledo composed these pieces to allow for his fellow musicians to contribute their own magic. Israel Chavez on the drums, Sergio Carrillo on bass and Ricardo Urbina on guitar, weave together a highly skilled ensemble.

Date: Dec. 5 at 3 p.m.
Location: Teatro Santa Ana at the Biblioteca Pública
Cost: 385 pesos, available at the Biblioteca ticket office or online 

Holiday Extravaganza

Get ready for a day of incredible deals and holiday cheer at this year’s Holiday Extravaganza! On Dec. 7,  head to the Patronato Pro Niños building for a buy one, get one free shopping spree. From cozy seasonal clothing to housewares, sporting goods and holiday décor, there’s something for everyone. 

Best of all, every purchase supports Patronato Pro Niños, a non-profit providing medical, dental and psychological care to children in need.  Don’t miss this fun fundraiser organized by Heart to Heart Charity Bazaar where you can give a little and help a lot. Visit patronatoproninos.org for details.

Date: Dec. 7, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Location: 2nd floor of the Patronato Pro Niños building
Cost:

Centenario de la Alborada

Get ready for another loud night as San Miguel de Allende celebrates the 100th anniversary of La Alborada. This cherished tradition began on Dec. 8, 1924, when workers from the La Aurora factory gathered to honor Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception at the Templo de las Monjas. By the following year, the event had grown into a city-wide celebration dedicated to San Miguel, the city’s patron saint, and has been celebrated ever since.

This event will begin at 3 a.m., with the firing of the same cannon used 100 years ago. At 4 a.m., a colorful procession will weave through the city streets, culminating at the Templo de las Monjas for the traditional singing of “Las Mañanitas” at 5 a.m. The morning concludes with an exhilarating fireworks “display” (it’s more of a pitched battle, really).

The celebration continues throughout the day with live music outside the temple, a lively outdoor fair and an afternoon parade. The festivities reach their grand finale in the evening with the quema de castillo and another dazzling fireworks show in honor of this beloved tradition.

Date: Dec. 8 at 3 a.m.
Location: Templo de la Purísima Concepción (Las Monjas)
Cost: Free

Rafael Jorge Negrete: Navidad a la Mexicana

Celebrate a magical evening of opera at the Templo de la Tercera Orden. Renowned baritone Rafael Jorge Negrete, grandson of the legendary Jorge Negrete, brings his international opera prestige to a Christmas concert that blends classics with traditional folklore, accompanied by pianist Javier García-Lascurain and the Mariachi Juvenil Allende.

The first part of the concert features a lyrical repertoire with piano, including timeless pieces like “Joy to the World,” “Largo al Factotum” and “Noche de Paz.” The second part celebrates Mexican traditions with mariachi classics, and the night concludes with a festive encore featuring “Los Peces en el Río” and “Feliz Navidad.”

Date: Dec. 13 at 7 p.m.
Location: Templo de la Tercera Orden
Cost: 850 pesos VIP, 600 general. Purchase tickets online or at the box office day of, or make reservations via WhatApp at (443) 202 1277.

Geek&Coffee Christmas Bazaar

This holiday season, make a difference right here at home by shopping local at the Geek&Coffee Christmas Bazaar! On Dec. 14, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. at this lovely coffee house and garden in Fabrica La Aurora, you’ll find a treasure trove of unique items —chocolates, art, jewelry, decorations, and more — all crafted by local producers and artisans. Enjoy delicious food, warm Christmas wine, and a lively atmosphere as you browse. 

Every peso you spend goes straight to the artists and makers, as Geek generously covers the tables and advertising costs. In a world that feels harder to fix by the day, supporting our community is within our reach. Come and find the perfect gift while making a meaningful impact this Christmas season.

Date: Dec. 14, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Location:
Cost: 

Posada Mexicana at El Nigromante

Celebrate the holiday season with the “Posada Mexicana” at the central garden of Centro Cultural El Nigromante on Dec. 20. Dancers from folk dance group Corazón de México will perform a vibrant showcase inspired by Mexico’s rich Christmas spirit. With colorful costumes, lively music and a joyful atmosphere, this event is a feast for the senses. 

Date: Dec. 20 at 7 p.m.
Location: Centro Cultural El Nigromante
Cost: Free entry.

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Whether you’re a foodie, an art lover or simply looking to soak up the local vibe, these two markets offer a fascinating shopping experience and an exciting peek into the city’s soul. Locals gather for groceries, friendly conversations and shared meals, while visitors are warmly welcomed.

A kaleidoscope of colors and flavors

Get ready for a sensory fiesta as you step into these vibrant markets. The air buzzes with energy as vendors showcase their offerings. Stalls are tightly packed and overflowing with a mesmerizing array of goods. Spanning three city blocks and housed under the same roof, these two markets promise a long and amusing stroll: wear comfy shoes!

At the Mercado Ignacio Ramírez, the spotlight is on food, including fresh produce, affordable meals, vibrant flowers and medicinal herbs. Visitors settle onto high stools at the bars of food stalls to enjoy irresistible goodies, from tacos and tortas to fruit juices and ice cream. Every bite here is a taste of tradition served with friendliness.

The Mercado de Artesanías (Crafts Market) is a showcase of local artistry, offering beautifully embroidered textiles that range from clothing to tablecloths, alongside an impressive variety of decorative items crafted from papier-mache, tin and clay. You’ll also discover finely made kitchen tools, including authentic molcajetes, Talavera ceramics and colorful glassware. The market is brimming with treasures, from exquisite jewelry to decorative tiles, mirrors, pewterware, leather goods, wool products, shoes, toys and so much more!

Proud longtime vendors

Many vendors at the Mercado Ignacio Ramírez have deep roots in the market’s history, with their stalls passed down through generations. When I asked a few vendors how long they’d been there, most of them replied: Forever! For many, the market has been their home and family’s livelihood since childhood. One vendor fondly recalled how her grandmother’s stall, selling the same types of snacks, was originally located in the nearby Plaza Cívica. The move to the current indoor market, she explained, happened when “El Caballito” was installed.

The ‘little horse’ she mentioned is actually a towering statue of Ignacio Allende on horseback, honoring the San Miguel-born hero of Mexico’s fight for independence. The nearby plaza, where the statue now stands, was once the market’s original venue and heart of the town, before the Jardín Principal became the central gathering place.

At an impressive flower stall, I met Emiliano, the welcoming vendor behind Florería Mary. He proudly continues a family tradition, running the stall that once belonged to his mother. Florería Mary’s vibrant selection includes stunning bird of paradise flowers for just 20 pesos each and radiant roses for 10 pesos, offering both beauty and great value. Emiliano’s charming demeanor, combined with his dedication to preserving his family’s legacy, has made his stall a beloved spot in the market.

Aida Mendoza greeted me warmly at her stall, where she crafts my favorite earrings using tiny, intricately threaded beads. Her jewelry is unique in its technique, which she explains differs from the Wixárika (Huichol) art sold at the neighboring stand. While other Wixárika artisans glue tiny beads onto sculptures, Aida threads them with string to create wearable art. Originally from San Pablito Pahuaclán in the mountains of Puebla, Aida moved to San Miguel and set up her stand five years ago. She speaks softly, feeling self-conscious about her Spanish, which is her second language. Despite this challenge, she has built a thriving business that supports her family. Her children, born in San Miguel de Allende, attend school in Spanish, while Aida and her husband proudly teach them Hñähñu (Otomí) at home to preserve their heritage.

The Mercado Ignacio Ramírez and Mercado de Artesanías offer endless inspiration. A visit here is as much about enjoying the moment as it is about purchasing something truly special.

Tips for visiting

• Forgot your shopping bag? Don’t worry, sturdy grocery bags are inexpensive and abundantly available.
• Bring cash: Few vendors accept credit cards.
• How to get there: The four entrances are located on the streets of Colegio, Relox, Hidalgo, and Loreto, but you can simply ask any taxi driver or local and they’ll point you in the right direction.
• Opening hours: Every day from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: sandragancz@gmail.com

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The Cineteca Nacional Chapultepec is a sanctuary dedicated to independent and arthouse cinema. In a city dominated by commercial giants like Cinépolis and Cinemex, this venue offers a refreshing alternative, showcasing films that often go unnoticed on mainstream screens.

A niche for true cinephiles

The Cineteca Nacional Chapultepec takes its cue from a tough act to follow: the iconic Cineteca Nacional in Coyoacán. This original venue became a cultural powerhouse after its 2012 remodel, which boosted its popularity to over a million visitors each year. 

Known for its dedication to independent and artistic films, as well as its workshops, exhibitions, and other activities celebrating the art of filmmaking, the original Cineteca set a high standard. This successful approach now serves as the blueprint for the Chapultepec location, extending the same vibrant programming and creative spirit to a broader audience.

A cinema like no other

The Cineteca Nacional Chapultepec, sprawling across nearly 12 hectares, is a grand cultural complex designed to impress. With eight screening rooms ranging from cozy 125-seat theaters to expansive halls accommodating 357 viewers, this venue can seat up to 1,800 people per day. What sets it apart is its cutting-edge technology: every room features 4K laser projectors for stunningly sharp visuals and Dolby Atmos surround sound systems that captivate the senses. Few venues in Mexico offer such high quality.

The Foro al Aire Libre (Outdoor Forum) offers a fresh twist on the movie-going experience. Designed like an auditorium, it features 16 tiers of seating with a capacity for up to 357 people. The space is equipped with state-of-the-art 7.1-channel sound and a massive projection screen measuring 39 feet wide by 23 feet tall. Its automated dimmable lighting system allows for clear projections even during daylight hours. 

Of course, no trip to the movies is complete without snacks, and the new Cineteca delivers here as well. Visitors can satisfy their sweet tooth at the candy stores, enjoy a warm coffee at the café, browse an impressive selection of books at the bookstore or sit down for a full meal at the on-site restaurant.

A safe haven for Mexico’s treasures

This site also hosts the new Bodega Nacional de Arte (National Art Repository). This impressive facility, consisting of 13 buildings, will host artistic workshops and serve as a secure home for the invaluable collections of the National Institute of Fine Arts and Literature (INBAL), Mexico’s leading institution for the promotion and preservation of fine arts and literature. 

The Bodega focuses on preserving and restoring artistic and cultural treasures, safeguarding some of the nation’s most significant works for generations to come.

Part of a bigger plan

This arts complex was developed as part of the federal government’s Bosque de Chapultepec: Naturaleza y Cultura project, which is giving the entire park a serious glow-up. This ambitious initiative, which drew criticism from some sectors for drawing on a significant part of the reduced national culture budget, is transforming one of the world’s largest urban parks.

The project revolves around three pillars: Social, environmental and cultural. The social focus is on making the park more welcoming and better connected to the surrounding city; one of its central elements was connecting the previously isolated sections of Chapultepec itself through initiatives like the construction of Line 3 on the Cablebús and the pedestrian that now links Sections I and II of the park across the Anillo Periférico highway.  The environmental angle revitalizes its landscapes, reintroduces native species and ensures sustainable water management. Meanwhile, the cultural component, which includes the new Cineteca, was intended to turn Chapultepec into a hotspot for creative expression.

From military area to cultural oasis

The space that the Cineteca Chapultepec occupies was once part of Campo Militar 1-F, a restricted military installation where weapons and ammunition were assembled. The new project seeks to reclaim government-controlled spaces and turn them into public treasures for all to enjoy. 

Much like the repurposing of Los Pinos, the former presidential residence that then-President López Obrador transformed into a public cultural complex early in his administration, this project aligns with the promise to provide Mexicans with access to spaces once reserved for the elite. “This project will primarily allow the working-class neighborhoods that face Chapultepec to have the park within reach because that’s not how it was before,” the former president said at the complex’s inauguration in September. 

Learn filmmaking for free at the CCC, thanks to Netflix

The new Cinema Training Center (CCC) is an integral part of the new Cineteca Nacional Chapultepec. This state-of-the-art film education center is designed to accommodate up to 280 students, offering cutting-edge facilities and programs to nurture emerging talent in the cinematic arts. In addition to positioning itself as a leading film school, it is also making waves by announcing an exciting partnership with none other than Netflix.

The Netflix Fund for Creative Equity in Mexico, launched this past August, is investing 22 million pesos to open doors for underrepresented communities in the entertainment industry. This program aims to discover and nurture the next wave of diverse talent while charging no tuition fees. For aspiring filmmakers, this means that a world-class education in cinematography is now within reach.

Accessible to all

Ticket prices to film screenings have been set at an affordable 70 pesos for general admission and just 50 for students, seniors and anyone under 25. Getting to the Cineteca is also a breeze. Public transportation options include the Cineteca Chapultepec station on the Cablebús’s newly-opened Line 3 and the still-incomplete Vasco de Quiroga station on the Mexico City-Toluca commuter train.

The Cineteca Nacional Chapultepec offers an unparalleled blend of cinema, culture and nature, making it a must-visit destination in Mexico City. Whether you’re a film enthusiast, an art lover or simply looking for a unique outing, this cultural gem promises an experience like no other.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: sandragancz@gmail.com

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Without further ado, here’s what’s on in San Miguel de Allende this November:

Day of the Dead Program in San Miguel de Allende – November 1-2 

There’s nothing anywhere in the world like Day of the Dead, but what’s San Miguel de Allende doing to mark the occasion?

Here’s a sneak peek at what’s planned for Friday: At 8:00 a.m., schools, NGOs, and other associations will set up their ofrendas in the Jardin Principal. Expect a crowd of eager kids, proud teachers, and creative displays. At 9:00 a.m. there’s a massive ofrenda exhibition in Colonia San Rafael.

Take a nap and return to the Jardin Principal at 6:00 p.m. for the blessing of the ofrendas, then stay to watch the Indigenous dance group “Tlaloc” bring crowds to the square. At 8:00 p.m., enjoy a performance by the Ballet of San Miguel de Allende. At 9:00 p.m., “Rondalla del Amor” brings romance to the celebration, followed by a “Concheros” vigil at 11:00 p.m., filling the night with ancient rhythms and reverence.

On Saturday at 10:00 a.m., the Patitas de Humanidad ofrenda takes over the fountain at Teatro Angela Peralta. At 6:00 p.m., the Catrinas parade kicks off from Cardo, filling the streets with towering skeletons, elaborate face paint, and costumes that will make you question your own Halloween efforts. The parade ends at the corner of Correo and Corregidora, just in time for Tlaloc’s return with another electrifying Indigenous dance performance in Jardin Principal, closing with the Ballet Folklórico Juvenil Mazatl.

Requiem en do menor by Luigi Cherubini – November 2

As they do every year, the Coro de la Ópera de San Miguel de Allende, under the direction of maestro pianist Mauro Ledesma, continues the tradition of presenting a Requiem in honor of Day of the Dead. The Church of San Francisco, one of the most treasured gems of the city’s colonial architecture, will host the concert at 6 p.m. 

Requiem in C minor was composed by Luigi Cherubini in 1816 and premiered at a commemoration service for Louis XVI of France on the twenty-fourth anniversary of his beheading. The piece was greatly admired by Beethoven, and even performed at his funeral in 1827. This concert will feature a full orchestra and choir, offering a reflective and moving musical experience.

Mexican Art and Design Festival – November 2-3

Don’t miss this festival at Foro del Obraje, on Calzada de la Presa, near the Live Aqua Hotel, which offers a feast for the senses. Over 40 designers, gourmet food stalls, a beer & wine garden, live music, and kids activities to the live tunes of flamenco, electronic cello, rock covers, and a bit of country to keep you grooving. Try your hand at any of the many workshops! Painting, macramé, orchid care, and even some sound healing. There’s a picnic zone, Day of the Dead activities — including Catrina makeup — and fun for the whole family. It’s the perfect way to support artists, enjoy amazing food, and soak in the spirit of San Miguel. Free entry and pet-friendly!

Art and Crafts Fair – November 2-3

On a similar note, the Instituto Allende is hosting its annual arts and crafts fair to celebrate life, art and tradition for Day of the Dead! From 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., enjoy stunning art pieces with live music and a variety of stalls offering tasty treats. This is an event for the whole family to enjoy local creativity while honoring the spirit of the season. Come for the art, stay for the fun and leave with something special!

Royale Gala 2024 – November 7

Prepare for an evening of glitz, glam and giving back at the Royale Gala in support of the charity “Patronato Pro Niños”! From 6:30 to 10:30 p.m. at Club de Golf Malanquin, kick off the night with cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and the smooth saxophone of Bruno Galicia. Savor fine wines from Dos Buhos and Cuna de Tierra and mezcal by Mata de Monte. The night kicks off with a special number by Arthur Murray. 

Bid in the online auction to score trips, artwork, jewelry, dinners, excursions and more, or feel the adrenaline rush of the exciting paddle raise auction led by auctioneers Eli and Joseph. Explore gourmet food stations curated by Parvada and dance to the music of Patrick Herlin. Proceeds help provide essential care to children in need. Don’t miss this night of fun and meaningful giving!

Tickets are US $150 and available at Club Malanquin or online at www.patronatoproninos.org.

Noche de Zarzuela – November 8-9

At 6:30 PM on both nights, Casa Europa is hosting Operísima México for a vibrant Spanish Night of Zarzuela! Imagine if opera and a musical had a lively Spanish lovechild! This unique genre blends opera, spoken dialogue, popular songs, and dance, making for an experience that is as accessible as it is thrilling. Known for its lively, often humorous plots and passionate music, zarzuela dives headfirst into the themes of Spanish life, love, and folklore. Think of it as the original telenovela, but with more singing, costumes, and a whole lot of drama! Get ready for a rollercoaster of drama, humor and plenty of Spanish flair!

Tickets are available at www.casaeuropamexico.com or via WhatsApp +52 415 181 2464.

Inna Falik Piano Concert – November 10

Pianist extraordinaire Inna Falik is bringing her virtuosity to San Miguel de Allende! Prepare for an unforgettable evening as this acclaimed musician, celebrated for her brilliant and emotionally charged performances, takes the stage with a captivating repertoire featuring works by Chopin, Beethoven, Corigliano, and Brahms. The concert will be held in the magnificent ambiance of St. Paul’s Church, where the historic architecture and rich acoustics will elevate every note. Whether you’re a classical music lover or simply ready to be swept away by the magic of her piano, mark your calendar for November 10th, 5:00 p.m. at St. Paul’s Church, Cardo #6, Centro.

Tickets are available online.

The City of Jazz – November 14-17

San Miguel de Allende weclomes The City of Jazz, bringing four unforgettable nights of live music to the Jardín Principal. The festival kicks off with the San Miguel Jazz Alliance on Nov. 14, followed by the soulful voice of Lucía Gutiérrez on Nov. 15. The excitement peaks on Saturday, Nov. 16, with none other than the legendary Gipsy Kings filling the air with their iconic rhythms. The festival wraps up on Nov. 17 with Big Band Jazz and the powerful Concha Buika. Best of all? It’s completely free, with concerts starting at 8 p.m. each night. Don’t miss this incredible opportunity to experience world-class jazz in the heart of San Miguel!

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: sandragancz@gmail.com

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De la Canal was a wealthy man born in Mexico City to Spanish parents. He moved to what was then known as San Miguel el Grande, drawn by the town’s growing importance as a colonial settlement and its thriving silver trade. In 1734, he built an impressive manor house that reflected his status and ambition. This immense property was not just a residence but a grand estate that included a spacious home, a flourishing orchard, and a vineyard, all enclosed within a massive stone wall. By the time he passed away in 1765, he had built many of the grand landmarks that still stand today.

A church that never was

In 1809, the Discalced Carmelite nuns of Querétaro acquired the building with plans to convert it into a neoclassical-style church. They hired renowned master architect Manuel Tolsá for this task. However, two major challenges prevented the nuns from achieving their goal. First, the War of Independence broke out in September 1810 causing widespread disruption and halted construction. Second, the nuns lacked a royal certificate from the Spanish Crown, which was required to legally use the building for religious purposes. As a result, their plans were abandoned, and the building sat unused for decades.

War, decline, and near abandonment

The War of Independence (1810-1821) and the Mexican Revolution (1910-1917) took a heavy toll on San Miguel de Allende. The once-thriving silver mines, which had sustained the town’s economy, were forced to shut down, leading to widespread hardship. The social and political unrest of these periods deepened the decline, prompting many residents to leave in search of better opportunities. As people moved away, the town’s grand buildings fell into neglect, and by the early 1900s, San Miguel was on the verge of becoming a ghost town.

Renewed prosperity

In 1926, the Mexican government stepped in and declared the town a national historic monument. This designation marked a turning point, showing a commitment to preserving its heritage. Strict regulations were put in place to protect its colonial charm, setting the stage for the town’s revival.

In 1927, inspired by intellectuals Alfonso Reyes and José Vasconcelos, Peruvian artist and diplomat Felipe Cossio del Pomar visited San Miguel de Allende and was captivated by its unique quality of light. Nearly a decade later, he followed his dream and founded the School of Fine Arts (Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes).

Cossio established the Bellas Artes school in the former convent of the Sisters of the Immaculate Conception (now known as “Las Monjas”) that was built in 1765 by María Josefa Lina de la Canal, Don Manuel de la Canal’s daughter. This convent had been seized by the government following the Reform Laws of 1860 and was being used as military barracks. 

The journey of Stirling Dickinson

Stirling Dickinson, born in 1909 in Chicago into a prominent family, was a talented artist and architect with degrees from Princeton University. Dickinson and his classmate, Heath Bowman, embarked on a six-month journey through Mexico to write a travel book. Their trip through Mexico turned into a permanent resident situation when José Mojica, a renowned Mexican opera singer and Hollywood star, invited them to visit San Miguel de Allende. They accepted the invitation and were captivated by the town upon arriving in February 1937.

In 1938, Dickinson became the director of the Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes. However, his work was cut short by World War II. From 1942 to 1945, he returned to the United States to serve in Naval Intelligence and later in the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), the precursor to the CIA.

After the war, Dickinson returned to San Miguel de Allende. He used his connections to enable veterans to attend the art school on the GI Bill, which funded free education for war veterans. News quickly spread about this new artist’s haven in the mountains of Mexico.

The GI Bill’s role in reviving San Miguel de Allende

Stories in Chicago newspapers and other publications began to feature San Miguel de Allende as a destination for veterans looking to study art, live affordably, and enjoy life. Following a glowing feature in the January 1948 issue of Life magazine, over 6,000 veterans applied to enroll, turning San Miguel into a “G.I. Paradise.” This influx of new students and visitors brought much-needed income to local businesses. The town began to flourish with a renewed energy centered around the arts.

However, trouble arose when a dispute over funding between the school’s manager and newly arrived Mexican muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros led to a walkout by students and faculty, with Dickinson’s support. In 1946, the Ministry of Education of the State of Guanajuato took over the Bellas Artes school, which now functions as the government-run Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez “El Nigromante”.

Holding on to the vision by founding the Instituto Allende

Despite this setback, the vision for a world-class art school in San Miguel de Allende did not fade. In 1951, Cossio invited Stirling Dickinson, Enrique Fernández Martínez (former governor of Guanajuato) and his wife, Nell Harris, to found Instituto Allende at Don Manuel Tomás de la Canal’s abandoned manor house.

Rodolfo Fernández, long time president of the institute, reflected on those early days: “Cossio had grand ideas, Dickinson was a fantastic promoter, and my father had the political connections, but the school’s true success stems from my mother’s extraordinary administrative vision and talent.”

A thriving artistic hub

Instituto Allende became a cornerstone of San Miguel’s cultural life, attracting new residents and tourists drawn by its art programs. The town’s economy flourished with the arrival of expatriates, artists, and students eager to be part of its vibrant arts scene, affordable lifestyle, and welcoming international community.

The high-quality courses offered at this private school continue to attract students from around the world. It is also a popular venue for a wide array of events, especially weddings, owing to its striking architecture featuring a central fountain, high arches and picturesque murals. The institute’s commitment to fostering creativity and education is as strong today as when it was first envisioned, strongly contributing to San Miguel de Allende’s worldwide fame as one of Mexico’s most treasured artistic destinations.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: sandragancz@gmail.com

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Without further ado, here’s what’s on in San Miguel de Allende this October:

Festival Cervantino: October 11 to 27

The Best of Blues – October 12

Get ready to dive into the soul of blues at this upcoming performance put on by the International Jazz & Blues Festival of San Miguel de Allende. On Oct. 12 at 5 p.m., Hotel de la Casona will be buzzing with the smooth, gritty sounds of legendary blues icons like BB King, Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker and Howlin’ Wolf. Expect a killer lineup, with Alfredo Vega, Jerome Phillips, Bill Belasco and Antonio Lozoya taking the stage. Whether you’re a longtime fan or just want to dip your toe into some of the greatest blues music ever written, this show is sure to have you tapping your feet. Plus, your 600-peso ticket comes with a complimentary margarita! Tickets available at www.sanmigueljazz.com.mx

Fall Harvest at Rancho Via Organica – October 12

Ready for a day of fresh air and fall vibes? Come join us at Fiesta en el Campo on Oct. 12 at 11 a.m. to celebrate the fall harvest! Meet local farmers, support the regional economy and enjoy a great day filled with outdoor action. From informative talks to a vibrant farmer’s market, kids’ activities and guided tours, there’s something for everyone. Whether you’re a foodie, a family or just looking for a fun day out, this event is all about connecting with nature, the community and some delicious local produce. Tickets cost 100 pesos, with free entry for kids. Make reservations via WhatsApp at 4151514978.

World Tour for Inner Peace – October 16 to November 3

San Miguel de Allende is honored to host Tibetan monks from the Gaden Shartse Monastery as part of their World Tour for Inner Peace. With the blessings of the Dalai Lama, the monks will perform rituals, purifications and initiation ceremonies to promote universal compassion and inner peace. They aim to create a bridge of light and transformation, awakening the deep spirituality within us all. The tour offers free events such as the Welcome Talk on Oct. 16 at 7 p.m. at Privada de Pila Seca 5 and the Environmental Healing Ceremony on Oct. 20 at 10 a.m. at El Charco del Ingenio. To see the full schedule of free and paid events, visit www.tibetanmonkssma.com and RSVP via WhatsApp 415 151 1164 or email monjestibetanossanmiguel@gmail.com.

Romeo et Juliette by Operísima Mexico – October 23-26

Experience the timeless tragedy of Romeo and Juliette at Casa Europa, as Operísima Mexico brings this iconic love story to life through a spectacular opera production. Directed by Rogelio Riojas Nolasco, the performance will captivate you with the powerful tale of passion and fate. Shows start at 6:30 PM, and tickets are $500 pesos. Don’t miss this chance to relive the timeless tale of love and loss. Tickets are available at Casa Europa. Call 415 181 2464 for reservations.

México Sinfónico – October 24

Prepare for an unforgettable evening that will stir your soul at the enchanting St. Paul’s Church. On Oct. 24 at 7 p.m., experience Mexico Sinfónico, featuring the talented young musicians of the Orquesta Sinfónica Infantil y Juvenil de San Miguel de Allende and Mariachi Sonidos de México. Under the direction of Victor Hugo Ramos Fonseca, the soaring orchestral arrangements combined with the soulful sounds of mariachi will create a deeply moving concert. A donation of 450 pesos secures your seat for this special night. To make reservations, text via WhatsApp at 415 566 3644 or email orquestasinfonicadesanmiguel@gmail.com.

Carnaval de los Muertos Festival at Villa Pajaritos – from October 26 to October 27

Get ready to jump into a two-day fiesta where the only thing scarier than death is missing out! Trino Restaurante at Villa Pajaritos is hosting a celebration filled with vibrant costumes, hands-on creative workshops and yummy ancestral foods. The event, which runs from 10 a.m. on the 26 to 6 p.m. the next day, will feature a fantastic lineup of live music, including indie and mariachi bands plus DJ PhoenixFire guiding deeply transformative dance journeys and a catchy twist on cumbia classics by The Cumbia Freaks. We gotta live while we’re alive, and this event is guaranteed to move your booty. Get your tickets and learn all the details at carnavaldelosmuertos.com.mx.

Mictlán: Camino hacia el Descanso Eterno – October 28

Prepare for a profound journey into the mystical realm of Mictlán at the Day of the Dead Festival at Hacienda El Santuario on Aldama 41. Kick things off at 5 p.m. with “Copilli, Plumaje Ancestral,” you’ll dive into the fascinating history of the ancient feather headdresses and get hands-on crafting your own in a fun workshop. Then, at 6 p.m., watch as the Espíritus Danzantes del Mictlán take the stage in a mesmerizing Mexica dance ritual to honor the ofrenda. This event invites you to experience a colorful path to eternal rest because in Mexico, death is just another reason to party. To make reservations, call 415 980 0192.

Art of the Story 2024 – October 29-31

The Art of the Story offers three days of transformative experiences at La Casona Convention Center. A diverse lineup of international artists, performers, and writers narrate their personal journeys through art. Highlights include former athlete Ivy Pochoda exploring sports and storytelling, audiobook legend Edoardo Ballerini on the power of the spoken word and former NYC Ballet principal Harrison Ball discussing the spirituality of dance. Don’t miss other special events, including the live audio drama “Invasion Earthship.” For more details, visit the Art of the Story website.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: sandragancz@gmail.com 

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In honor of the highest-ranking archangel, the community gathers in a shared expression of faith and gratitude. The origins of this tradition date back to colonial times, evolving over the centuries as a blend of Indigenous and Catholic beliefs. The modern version of La Alborada, as it is celebrated today, was revived in 1924 by the workers of the La Aurora textile factory.

At the core of La Alborada lies the symbolic reenactment of the celestial battle between Saint Michael the Archangel and Lucifer. This epic struggle, deeply rooted in the Catholic tradition, portrays Saint Michael as the divine warrior who leads the heavenly forces against  the fallen angel Lucifer in a clash that symbolizes the fight between good and evil.

On Friday night, the neighborhoods of La Aurora, La Estación and Valle del Maíz become gathering spots for eager revelers. These celebrants carry enormous stars made from colorful paper and illuminated from within by candles that are a glowing homage to Our Lady of Light. At 1:00 a.m., all groups begin their spirited walk towards the Jardín, where crowds await with musical ensembles.

Once everyone has arrived, the city square becomes a theater of war, reflecting Saint Michael’s fiery determination to protect the faithful and drive back the forces of darkness. It is a luminous offering to please Saint Michael in hopes that he will grant blessings for the year ahead.

Attendees fortify themselves with a drink or two for courage. The Red Cross and fire trucks are parked all around on standby. In the dead of night, as the clock strikes 4:00 a.m., the church bells toll to mark the beginning of La Alborada.

Rockets start shooting from the church’s courtyard, tracing bright lines in the dark sky before exploding with a deafening bang. Most of these missiles are launched directly towards the thousands of people gathered in front of the church. There’s something primal about this religious fervor, driven by fire and thunder.

To symbolize the artillery of Satan, fireworks are launched from the opposite side of the Jardin toward the church. This turns the square into a dramatic battlefield where the crowds are caught in the crossfire. The sheer volume of this seemingly endless barrage is intense in this explosive showdown.

At 4:30 a.m., a castle joins Saint Michael’s arsenal. This tall wood or metal frame, built around a central pole, is covered in rockets. Some of these fireworks spin and shoot fire in all directions, while others are set off in stages, creating a display of shapes, patterns and colors. The crowd now jumps and dodges around it, avoiding the sparks flying from the structure. There are as many lights on the ground as there are in the sky. When all sides of the castle have burned out, the circular top ignites and begins to spin rapidly.

The smoke from the fireworks grows so thick that it becomes its own challenge, creating a dark atmosphere where the biggest concern isn’t just the low visibility or the fire raining down, but the lack of oxygen. The thick smoke lingers amidst the massive colonial buildings, adding to this chaotic, heart-pounding experience.

By 5:30 a.m., the barrage of fireworks finally stops. Good has triumphed. Saint Michael has defeated the forces of darkness, and the crowd erupts in applause, celebrating the good news: a prosperous year full of blessings is promised for all. This high-energy revelry culminates in the singing of “Las Mañanitas.”

On Sunday, the celebrations continue for those who have the stamina to keep up with the pace. People gather again for a captivating performance by the Voladores de Papantla, whose aerial dance show dazzles the crowd as they spin gracefully from great heights. Traditional dancers in Indigenous attire bring beautiful floral offerings. Adding a whimsical touch, giant puppets called mojigangas dance their way through the streets.

The burning of paper-mâché figures captivates children. When the figures explode, kids dive to the ground like it’s a piñata party, scrambling to grab the hidden goodies. Meanwhile, hundreds of riders fill the street in front of the Parroquia, where a temporary altar is set up for a special mass and the blessing of the horses. A solemn procession carries the image of Saint Michael through the town, pausing at key churches before finally returning to its home parish.

As La Alborada approaches, consider yourself warned: this is not a quiet night in San Miguel de Allende. For daredevils, diving straight into the action at the city square can be the ultimate adrenaline rush. It’s a chance to participate in joyful chaos and stand shoulder-to-shoulder with locals and fellow thrill-seekers.

However, for those who prefer to keep a safe distance, taking a few precautions might be wise. Consider snuggling your pets in a pillow bunker and slipping on an extra pair of earplugs. The sheer volume of pyrotechnics means thick smoke can settle over the city, making breathing a challenge, especially in the Historic Center. On the bright side, if you manage to sleep that night, you’ve earned bragging rights!

Whether you’re in the thick of it or watching from afar, La Alborada is not for the faint of heart — but it’s certainly a night to remember.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: sandragancz@gmail.com 

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Given this lack of infrastructure, waste management in Mexico depends on the efforts of people who work in the shadows. Collectors, also known as “pepenadores,” sort and separate trash to extract materials they will later sell to recycling plants. This work is often their only source of income and the only means by which reusable materials avoid reaching landfills.

Despite their vital role in recycling, collectors operate outside any regulatory framework. They receive very little recognition or assistance and lack access to wages, benefits or safety gear. Pepenadores are on their own, facing significant challenges daily.

The work of a pepenador

There are three types of recyclables collectors in Mexico. First, there are those who sift through the trash placed on the sidewalk before the city’s collection trucks arrive. Second, some trash truck workers separate recyclables throughout their shift, earning extra income by selling these materials. Finally, many collectors work at the landfills, digging through huge piles of waste to extract recyclables.

Although trash collection services are the responsibility of city governments, many people volunteer on trash trucks for the chance to collect materials they can sell. Local governments exploit their need, as thousands work on these trucks for free, circumventing labor protections.

The earnings of recyclables collectors depend on fluctuating prices. On average, recycling plants pay about 1.50 pesos per kilo of cardboard, 10-22 pesos per kilo of aluminum cans and 3-11 pesos per kilo of plastics. These prices can vary due to market demand, the quality of materials and global commodity prices, creating significant income instability. Despite these challenges, pepenadores persist in their work, driven by financial need and the lack of alternative employment opportunities.

Collectors face hardship and exploitation

Work in hazardous conditions without protective gear, recyclables collectors face constant risk. Their job requires sticking their bare hands into mixed trash in the hopes of finding valuable items, often bumping into sharp objects that produce cuts and infection. Working in unsanitary environments, they typically lack access to soap and water, and the physical strain of carrying heavy bags and the threat of injury from unstable piles of waste add to their daily perils.

What is a familiar scene for Mexicans may seem disturbing to foreigners. In the stillness of the night, you suddenly hear rustling noises outside your house. You peek out the window and see a figure hunched over, opening your trash bags. The person in the shadows is focused on the content and taking items out. You feel a rush of unease at this invasion of privacy, leaving you with an unsettling sense of both your vulnerability and theirs.

I have always been concerned for the men and women who walk our streets and sift through our trash. They endure discrimination for their appearance and are despised by some for the mess they unintentionally create. 

A simple act of kindness can ease their burden

Waste collectors’ hardship and effort deserve our gratitude and respect, as their effort is essential both for their livelihood and the environment. We can show it with a simple act of kindness: don’t throw recyclables in the general trash. By making valuable materials easily accessible to them, we can dignify their efforts. Separating your recyclables and placing them in a visible manner is very helpful. This small gesture ensures that reusable materials reach recycling plants, supporting the environment and the people who perform this crucial task.

Collectors of recyclable materials usually walk residential streets when trash is placed on the sidewalk the night before scheduled trash truck routes. They mainly collect plastic containers and aluminum cans. Although cardboard is also recycled and worth discarding separately, it is often taken and sold by the trash truck workers because it’s too cumbersome for pepenadores to carry on foot.

Join the #HeroesReciclanMX campaign

I recently launched a campaign with the hashtag #HeroesReciclanMX to raise awareness on this important issue. I invite you to join the initiative by posting this text on your social media:

“Let’s dignify the work of the people who take our discarded materials to the recycling plant by making it easy for them to access and collect recyclable items. We can show our respect and gratitude by not making them dig through our general trash.

 To make recycling easier for everyone:

1. Place your discarded cardboard boxes, plastic bottles and aluminum cans separately in a basket or bag you don’t use to dispose of any other materials. You can even use cardboard boxes as recyclables baskets!
2. Place outside in a visible manner the night before trash truck days; that’s when collectors walk our streets seeking recyclables.
3. Don’t worry if it is still there in the morning and taken by truck to the general landfill, discarding separately also helps the many collectors who work there.

Together we can have a positive impact on the lives of collectors and the environment. Thank you for joining this effort! #HeroesReciclanMX”

Doing your part for a better community

By simply placing your recyclable waste outside separately, you can protect your privacy and ease the effort of collectors. Together, we can foster a community that values and supports these heroes and works toward a kinder, cleaner Mexico.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based in San Miguel de Allende who specializes in mental health and humanitarian aid. She believes in the power of language to foster compassion and understanding across cultures. She can be reached at: sandragancz@gmail.com

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