Who lives in Nápoles

Colonia Nápoles, in Mexico City’s Benito Juárez borough, is reeling from its recent years of revitalization and a growing interest from younger urbanites looking for fun-yet-affordable living areas. With an average resident age of 38, Nápoles attracts a diverse mix of professionals, creatives and entrepreneurs. 

Speaking of creatives, renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botero briefly resided on Calle Kansas in 1956. During his stay, Botero — whose works can be found at the Museo Tamayo and Museo Soumaya — immersed himself in Mexico’s thriving art scene, using this time as a period of intense intellectual exploration and artistic development.

A brief history of Nápoles

With its establishment in 1908, Colonia Nápoles quickly defined itself as a key player in the ever-expanding metropolis that was Mexico City. The neighborhood emerged from Rancho de Amores and Rancho de Nápoles, former agricultural estates primed for urban development. English women Francisca Julia Willie and her business partner Enrique Marcial Beale worked together to bring to life their envisioned “model town” with large lots and accessible routes to Mexico City. 

Pretty soon, California Colonial-style mansions started popping up and Nápoles was divided into two sections: the original and Ampliación Nápoles. Over time, Nápoles evolved from a residential area to a commercial hub, particularly along Avenida de los Insurgentes, with modern buildings replacing many of its original houses.

A guide to Nápoles today

Perhaps thanks to the World Trade Center complex, Nápoles offers a unique blend of international flair and local charm. This is evident most notably through its culinary scene, especially along Calle Nueva York, where you can sample bites ranging from Polish to French, Spanish to Indian, all within a few blocks. 

The neighborhood strikes an agreeable balance between the trendiness of areas like Roma or Condesa and a more authentic local experience. Nápoles is characterized by a cosmopolitan vibe that showcases street vendors and upscale dining options on its streets named after U.S. states. The location is strategic and well-connected, making it an ideal base for exploring or living. 

Nápoles is great if you love: A down-to-earth, non-curated neighborhood with a vibrance that could only exist in Mexico City.

What to do in Nápoles

Polyforum Siqueiros: A cultural landmark housing a giant mural, “La Marcha de la Humanidad,” this multifunctional space showcases humanity’s evolution through art. Check out a lineup of  diverse cultural events including theater and exhibitions, in its unique circular auditorium.

Pepsi Center WTC: A versatile, state-of-the-art venue is capable of hosting a range of events, from lectures to concerts by the likes of Bob Dylan and Alejandro Sanchez. It boasts modern amenities, exceptional acoustics and a prime location within the World Trade Center complex.

WTC México: One of the city’s premier event spaces is known for large-scale gatherings that run the gamut of spirituality expos to pharmaceutical conventions. Ideal for networking or accidentally bumping into potential clients. Check out the CETRO Mirador on the 46th floor in Torre 1 for sweeping views of the city.

Plaza México: Despite ongoing legal battles, the world’s largest bullring has resumed activity in the center of Nápoles. Plaza México is an architectural marvel that hosts bullfights and various cultural events, including concerts, serving as a symbol of Mexican heritage and a unique attraction for visitors.

Alameda Nápoles (Parque Alfonso Esparza Oteo): Nápoles’ main park features a distinctive clock tower that has become a symbol of the neighborhood. Enjoy green spaces, a small open-air forum for live performances and recreational facilities.

Parque Hundido: Located in neighboring Extremadura Insurgentes, this expansive urban park is a favorite for families and teenage Mexican couples looking for a place to make out. There are plenty of unique attractions here that you won’t find in other city parks, including the hard-to-miss sculpture of an Olmec head and a recognizable clock made of flowers. 

Things to eat in Nápoles

El Corazón del Mar: This popular seafood restaurant is known for a diverse menu and creative cocktails. The ambiance is relaxed and casual, with outdoor seating perfect for an outing with friends. Make sure to order the octopus or tacos al pastor.

 

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Hijos del Maíz: Mexico is all about celebrating corn, and that’s the premise of this modern Mexican eatery. The menu is abundant in tamales, tlayudas and breakfast dishes like chilaquiles. Don’t miss the interesting mix of cocktails available, including virgin options. Try their flautas ahogadas for an authentic taste of Mexican cuisine.

Vainila Bar: Head here when you’re in the mood for breakfast with an artistic flair. Vainila’s “Brunching and Painting” series is an all-inclusive event, where you can choose a ceramic piece to decorate while enjoying a filling breakfast and unlimited coffee, tea or soft drinks. 

Mazurka: I loved knocking back chilled vodka in this surprisingly authentic Polish restaurant located inside a house with Polish-style furnishing. I can almost guarantee you’ll feel like a true aristocrat ordering from an endless menu boasting dozens of traditional dishes. The restaurant, a staple in Nápoles for over 40 years, is famous for its duck dishes and the “Pope’s menu” once served to Pope John Paul II. 

Goy’s Plant-Based Burgers: It ain’t easy being vegan in a meat-loving country, which might be why this lively and friendly plant-based burger joint is always busy. Goy’s attracts both vegans and meat-eaters to its menu of house-made burger patties that rival traditional burgers. Try their “chicken” burger, which customers claim is indistinguishable from the real thing.

Dulce Madero: This quaint pet-friendly restaurant, cafe and deli focuses on a health-conscious yet very hearty menu. There’s a little bit of everything, so whether you’re in the mood for a superfood smoothie and eggs or a crisp white wine and charcuterie, you’ll find what you’re looking for here. Patrons love the rustic feel and cozy outdoor patio.

Debarbas Nueva York – Tapas Bar: Want the beach but can’t quite swing a getaway to the coast? Come to Nápoles’s gourmet bebedero (drinkery), which features a fusion of Mexican and Italian cuisines, with dishes like tuna tostadas in ginger vinaigrette and bean-stuffed plantain croquettes. 

La Musa Coffee House: Vibey and hip with lots of character, La Musa draws locals in for more than just its good coffee. It’s the perfect spot for those seeking a trendy, local coffee experience with a side of creativity. Snack on lavender pound cake or an empanada with your coffee, or enjoy an afternoon mojito as a live musician strums his guitar.

One hidden gem

Far from hidden, any visitor to Nápoles should plan a visit to the Sunday tianguis. Considered one of the city’s best, spend the afternoon shopping a great variety of products that you can’t find at every tianguis: kitchen and home items, flea-market finds, fresh produce, prepared foods and everything in between. 

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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I don’t want cream, I don’t want meatballs, I don’t want canned tomato sauce: I want pasta served exactly the way it’s served to me in Italy. That’s right. I’m a bona fide pasta snob. This article has taken me to no less than five of Mexico City’s hottest neighborhoods in search of the perfect plate of pasta.

While my list offers just seven restaurants to start, I know that there are more steaming plates of artfully crafted gnocchi just waiting to be discovered. Leave your favorite pasta gems in the comments below. 

Casa D’Amico

There’s nothing more Italian-style than entering a sweet little Polanco restaurant and being greeted by the owner. This is exactly what you can expect at Casa D’Amico, managed by Walter and Gianmarco. Enjoy a perfect plate of pasta as the father-son duo go from table to table, chatting with customers and minding every detail. The kitchen at this warm and welcoming hotspot is cared for by Walter, a self-taught chef with a passion for creating authentic Italian dishes with Mexican ingredients. Don’t forgo the Fettuccine Gabriel, a specialty dish that marries shrimp and Portobello mushrooms in a white wine sauce topped with Parmesan cheese.

Il Fiorino

Il Fiorino is the type of Italian restaurant where the day’s specials are handwritten on a blank sheet of paper and there’s no website to speak of. The space is so unassuming from the outside, it could be easy to miss if not for the sidewalk sign advertising Verdadera Cocina Italiana.

Walk inside, however, and you’ll likely be greeted by the outgoing Fernando Forni, owner, chef and food fanatic. Dive into a steaming plate of pappardelle or risotto alla Milanese featuring saffron risotto paired with osso buco paired with your favorite Tuscan wine. The unwritten motto seems to be less fanfare, more quality. What could be more Italian?

Pasta Guapa 

Behind a little window in Narvarte, you’ll find Argentinian chef Melina at the counter, crafting handmade pasta of various forms and flavors. In addition to the classics, there’s freshly-made spinach spaghetti, ravioli stuffed with sweet potato, thick focaccia topped with cherry tomatoes and rosemary and homemade sauces like pesto and tomato. 

Just over two years ago, Chef Mel opened the cozy space as a way to immerse into her adopted home in Mexico while still connecting her to her Argentine roots. One of her clearest childhood memories is the image and aroma of her grandfather’s kitchen as pasta sat drying on the table.

Her desire to incorporate a bit of home has resulted in something very special. Aside from everything being beautiful and delicious, Chef Mel offers something that isn’t so easy to find in Mexico City: pasta-making classes in her intimate studio. Gather with a group of friends around a large central table and learn how to do it yourself. Snacks, aguas frescas and wine are included to hold you over until your group’s Italian feast is ready to eat.

Pasta Mestiza

The newest kid on the block isn’t Italian at all, but rather a Mexican take on pasta dishes. Situated inside the bustling Mercado Roma, Pasta Mestiza blends traditional Italian pasta with the bold and vibrant flavors of authentic Mexican-style sauces. 

Cozy up at one of the six high top stools that line the bar in front of an open kitchen. Sip a glass of wine and chat with the chefs, also the owners, as they craft your pasta dish right in front of you. Choose from an array of sauces that reflect Mexico’s recognizable masterpieces, like barbacoa or salsa matcha. One of its many excellent Google reviews describes it as “the most amazing pasta I’ve had in a long time,” while another pipes in about the “incredible food and even better staff! Loved the pasta, the process, and vibes all around.” 

 

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Don’t leave without dessert, a knafeh with fresh queso oaxaqueño that is to die for. 

Pazzesca Pizzeria

Nestled at the enchanting corner in La Juárez where Calle Napoles meets Calle Marsella, Pazzesca Pizzeria is sure to draw you in. This cozy yet contemporary restaurant, whose name means something local, extraordinary, or out of the ordinary, is adorned with romantic string lights and a traditional brick pizza oven. If you can manage to tune out the sounds of the passing scrap metal trucks, you might just feel transported to a quaint Italian town.

Owner Alan Niggeler is dedicated to sourcing only the finest ingredients, ensuring that every dish reflects the authenticity and quality of Italian cuisine. And while many of its patrons — many of whom hail from Italy — flock to Pazzesca for pizza, it’s the pasta that truly captivated this discerning diner. I wouldn’t go out for a plate of tagliatelle al funghi anywhere else. 

Suppli

At the corner of Calle Atenas and Avenida Bucareli in La Juárez stands the appropriately-named Chinese Clock, built by the Chinese-Mexican community in 1921 to replace a clock gifted to Mexico by the last emperor of China in 1910. Surrounding this obelisk is an area that just might be the city’s next hotspot, if the explosion of restaurants, cafes and galleries here in the past year is any indication of what awaits. One of these restaurants is impossible not to notice, so inviting and romantic that you’d be a fool to pass by without peeking inside. 

The tiny, ambient Suppli was brought to life by the talented founders of Pastificio. Ale Gutiérrez and Jean Marc Pariente, whose names you might recognize from Food & Wine’s 2024 list of best new chefs, were determined to bring the essence of homemade Roman cuisine to this corner of Mexico City. Their menu is concise and seasonal, relying on local ingredients. Aim to try the classic amatriciana, the pasta carbonara and the fresh arugula salad.

Toscanaccio

Just steps from the Monument to the Revolution, Florentine chef Marcello Gurioli and his meticulously-trained cooks are stuffing delicate ravioli with fresh ricotta and handcrafting enough tagliatelle to last them through one busy day. Gurioli spent years learning alongside top European chefs, and the golden rule in his kitchen is that everything be fresh, handmade and fully Italian. His wine list includes Italian classics like Vermintino, as well as pleasant surprises like the organic, floral Varvaglione from Puglia. 

A visit to Toscannacio is an experience if you play your cards right. Sure, you can order from the menu, but why bother? The charismatic Gurioli will more than likely be fluttering around and delighted to create a dish just for you. He loves an adventurous eater, so keep an open mind  — and stomach! — and enjoy a true Italian-style dinner you won’t soon forget.

Buon appetito!

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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I wish I could say I started going for spiritual purposes or to engage with the community, but that wouldn’t be true. The truth is, I just wanted a place to sing Christmas carols. 

Several years ago, I spent my first holiday here in Mexico City and figured singing carols in Spanish would be a good immersive experience. I arrived at the Parroquia de la Sagrada Familia in Roma Norte and settled into a rather chilly wooden pew. Bright red poinsettias lined the aisle and twinkling lights dangled from the altar. I listened to the low chatter of parishioners as it ricocheted off the walls adorned with paintings of religious icons. A family, grandparents, parents, and two small children, slipped in the pew in front of me.

The grandmother held a small bundle of blankets with what looked like a baby inside. Throughout the service, she would pass the baby to her husband, who would rock it gently for a few moments. He would then pass it to one of his adult children, who stared into the bundle with love and adoration. It impressed me how quiet the child was, and how stiff his little body appeared to be. Weird that with all this movement and sound, it hasn’t made so much as a peep.

Upon further inspection, I realized…it was a doll.

A doll of the baby Jesus.

And upon even further inspection, I realized that everyone around me seemed to have the very same baby Jesus doll. I scanned the room in awe and watched as grown men and women rocked their respective figurines with a doting so visceral that anyone from the outside would assume what they were holding was a real living child.

I stifled a laugh (In church! The horror!). What in the Lord’s name is going on here?

Because I’m a curious soul, I researched this peculiar phenomenon immediately. I found out that many Catholic families own a Niño Dios (Baby Jesus) which is usually passed down through generations or given as a wedding present. On Christmas Eve, the doll makes its debut. First, it’s wrapped in a blanket and “lulled” to sleep by a godparent while onlookers sing a chorus of lullabies. At midnight, the doll is lovingly placed in its proper, central spot in the Nativity for each family member to kiss and pray over.

It’s a sight to behold.

Want to see it for yourself? You can. Don your Sunday best and make your way to any of these gorgeous Mexico City churches on December 24, known in Mexico as Nochebuena.

Metropolitan Cathedral

Historical Center

Built in: started in 1524, finished in 1813

The most famous church in Mexico sits in the heart of the historic center and is known for its magical Midnight Mass. Because the cathedral took nearly 240 years to complete, it’s now a unique blend of architectural styles including Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassical, and a beautiful location for an unforgettable Christmas experience.

Basílica de Guadalupe 

Villa de Guadalupe

Built in: the New Basilica was constructed in 1974 to replace the Old Basilica, built in 1695


Pilgrims from all over Mexico come to the country’s most important religious site for a significant Nochebuena celebration. The New Basilica houses the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe and holds up to 100,000 people. Despite its size, you’ll still have to arrive early to get a decent seat.

 

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Parroquia de la Sagrada Familia
 

Roma Norte

Built in: 1925

This beautiful church in Colonia Roma offers a more intimate setting for Nochebuena Mass. Construction began in 1910 but was interrupted during the Mexican Revolution. It was finally finished 15 years later, and its interior quickly became notable for its multicolored stained glass windows illustrating Bible passages and Christian mysteries.

Iglesia de San Jacinto

San Ángel

Built in: mid 16th century

The San Ángel neighborhood and its colonial feel make this former convent one of the most charming places to spend Christmas Eve. Founded as a small hermitage in the mid-16th century, it became an official church by 1580. The complex includes one of the first atrial crosses carved in stone, mixing Christian and pagan elements.

San Juan Bautista Church


Coyoacán

Built in: began in 1522, completed around 1552

One of the oldest churches in Mexico City is situated in Coyoacán’s center plaza, offering a historic and cheerful setting for Nochebuena Mass. The church features a blend of architectural styles and houses an outstanding collection of colonial-period artwork. 

Christ Church


Lomas de Chapultepec

Built in: 1992

This Anglican church provides English-language services and could be an option for expats or visitors seeking a familiar style of worship. It was designed by architect Carlos Mijares and can be recognized by its distinctive brick construction. 

Parroquia de San Agustín


Polanco

Built in: 1949

Polanco’s modernist church takes up an entire block and is a local go-to for traditional Nochebuena services. A distinctive half-dome over the altar earned this parish the nickname “Church of the Tinaco.” The façade showcases the first seven Augustinians to arrive in Mexico in 1533.

Capilla of San Sebastián Mártir 

Location: Chimalistac

Built in: late 16th century

If what you want is to step back in time, Chimalistac is where you need to go. Arrive early, as this extremely historic church is tiny and its crowd large. Originally an open-air chapel, it was roofed and enclosed in the late 17th century. The chapel houses an 18th-century Baroque altarpiece from the original Church of La Piedad.

Nuestra Señora de Valvanera Cathedral

Location: Historic Center

Built in: 1572

Also known as the Maronite Cathedral of Our Lady of Valvanera, is the official cathedral for the Maronite Catholic Eparchy of Our Lady of the Martyrs of Lebanon in Mexico. It’s one of just two churches with authentic talavera tiles on the belfry and houses a statue of Lebanon’s beloved saint San Charbel.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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Who lives in San Ángel

San Ángel is one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in Mexico City, comprising a mix of professionals, academics and retirees. A significant number of residents are middle-aged and older adults. However, its proximity to the Autonomous Technological Institute (ITAM) and National Autonomous University (UNAM) draws in graduate students and young families, and its flair for the arts attracts creatives in droves.

A brief history of San Ángel

The area that is now San Ángel has been an important agricultural area since pre-Columbian times due to the Magdalena River, now Mexico City’s last living river and flowing through San Ángel underground. In the 16th century, the Spanish established convents and monasteries here, notably those of the Discalced Carmelites. By the 18th century, wealthy families looking to move outside the urban hub of Mexico City began building haciendas and colonial-style mansions in San Ángel. With the Mexican Revolution came the redistribution of property, resulting in the loss of many family homes.

A few decades after the Revolution, San Ángel transformed into a creative center, drawing in painters, musicians and writers. Mexico’s most famous artistic couple, Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo briefly lived and worked in San Ángel Inn in a duplex connected by a glass-enclosed bridge, now open to visitors. 

Francisco de Urquiaga, a notable philanthropist, lived near the center square during the early 20th century. Rumor has it Urquiaga hid Chucho El Roto — the Mexican Robin Hood said to have once stolen a gold watch from Porfirio Díaz — right here in his San Ángel home. 

A guide to San Ángel today

A stroll over San Ángel’s cobblestone streets and colonial architecture is a bonafide blast from the past. Between pastel-colored family homes overtaken by bougainvillea are contemporary galleries, trendy restaurants, cultural centers and churches that look as if they were lifted off a postcard from Spain. It’s historical yet artsy, residential yet bustling, quaint yet vibrant. It’s a bit more humid than the central zones of Mexico City, resulting in a lush ambience with a hint of tropical air.

San Ángel is great if you love: Feeling like you’ve been swept back to the 19th and 20th centuries while still enjoying modern conveniences, like excellent dining, boutique shopping and contemporary art galleries.

What to do in San Ángel

Bazar de los Sábados: No visitor should miss the famous Saturday market that starts in Plaza San Jacinto and features artisan crafts, typical street food and live music. Just steps away you’ll find Jardín del Arte, where local artists display their paintings in an open-air art market in Plaza San Jacinto.

Museo del Carmen: The former monastery known for its exquisite baroque architecture also houses religious art and historical artifacts. Beneath the main altar of the church is a magnificent crypt with original tiled floors from the 16th century. On display are a collection of mummies, discovered by Zapatista troops during the Mexican Revolution.

Templo y Ex-Convento del Carmen: The historic church above the crypt is known for its stunning altarpiece and beautiful tiled domes. There’s also a large garden in the back for relaxing.

Mercado del Carmen: Not to be confused with everything else named Carmen, this adorably charming, multilevel collection of shops and restaurants is located on Avenida de la Paz, a lively destination in itself for dining and socializing.

Casa del Risco: Housed in an 18th-century mansion, this cultural center showcases art and history, surrounded by gardens and fountains. Inside are seven permanent galleries showcasing art ranging from religious to baroque to colonial. It’s open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday and admission is free.

Where to eat in San Ángel

San Ángel Inn: You can’t go to San Ángel without going to its most historic restaurant, located in a beautifully restored 17th-century hacienda. Originally a Carmelite monastery, the restaurant is renowned for its blue-and-white Talavera-style table settings and elegant Spanish-Mexican colonial atmosphere. And margaritas.

La Taberna del León: Founded by Chef Mónica Patiño in 1994, this San Ángel staple boasts a menu of contemporary Mexican cuisine with a French twist. This beautiful restaurant on Plaza Loreto is situated in a magnificent, historic house which dates back to 1926 and is the perfect place to bring your parents.

Bistro 83: Casual and stylish, Bistro 83 features a diverse menu that includes everything from hearty breakfast options to classic Mexican dishes with an international flair. The bistro prides itself on using fresh ingredients and is ideal for relaxing with friends after a day of sightseeing.

Cluny: Head to this chic French eatery and order the most popular dish: duck confit with raspberry sauce. Pair it with the wine of your choice from an extensive menu. It’s intimate, authentic and romantic, a great date option evening out with girlfriends.

Cafetería El Péndulo: No matter which of Péndulo’s multiple locations you visit, you’re in for a treat. This one is technically in Guadalupe Inn, but nonetheless is an excellent escape for anyone who wants to cozy up with a good book, live music and moody lighting. 

Zeru: If you’re in the mood for Mediterranean cuisine, look no further than Zeru. Here, it’s all about fresh ingredients, innovative seafood dishes and Instagram-worthy presentations. The vibe here is upscale but still relaxed, so whether you want a casual lunch or a celebratory dinner, this is your spot. Don’t miss the grilled king crab with saffron.

 

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Séptimo Ostería: Nearly ten years old, San Ángel’s favorite Italian eatery is known for its fresh pasta and seafood dishes, not to mention a warm, rustic atmosphere. The menu emphasizes high-quality ingredients sourced from local markets which are used to create authentic Italian flavors. For a true taste of Italy, order the ravioli di ricotta.

One hidden gem

If you decide to walk to Coyoacán from San Ángel, you might cross Insurgentes Sur and find yourself lost in a fairy land of sorts. This is good, because it means you’ve made it to Mexico City’s most spectacular hidden gem, Chimalistac. The name is Nahuatl for “place of the white shield” and was once home to an important town paying tribute to the Tepanecs, the major power in the Valley of Mexico before the rise of the Mexica (Aztecs). It’s lush and green, full of flowers, fountains and the occasional ancient chapel. Visitors in the know wander this little slice of quiet paradise in search of the few 16th-century stone bridges that still exist. 

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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If needed, feel free to accidentally send this article to any family members, lovers, or friends who could use a little assistance in shopping for you this year. Look at you, Santa’s little helper.

Temazcal ceremonies

If you live in Mexico or spend a significant amount of time here, chances are you’ve indulged in a traditional Temazcal experience. This Mesoamerican sweat lodge serves as both a physical and spiritual cleansing ritual, and derives from Nahuatl, where “temaz” means “steam” and “calli” means “house”. The Temazcal practice dates back to pre-Columbian civilizations such as the Maya and Mexica who used it often to promote relaxation, detoxification, and spiritual renewal. 

Sweat out impurities and find your mental focus right here in Mexico City. More than a detox, it’s also a great opportunity to hand over holiday prep duties to someone else for three hours.

Places to experience a Temazcal in Mexico City include:

• Temazcal Tonatiuh Ajusco (Tlalpan) $
• Centro Holístico Itzae (Historic Center) $
  
• La Planta Médica (Chimalistac) $$
• Temazcal del Hotel W (Polanco) $$$$

Couples massages with champagne perks

Unwind, reconnect, enhance intimacy… or just knock out a holiday present for yourself and your lover with a couples massage. Experience gifts are all the rage these days, and what could be better in this wintry weather than sitting in a steaming hot jacuzzi with a bottle of bubbly and artisanal chocolates? If your answer was “a 90-minute massage and 60-minute facial” and you live in Mexico City, you’re in luck. Forget your to-do list for a few hours and decompress in a tranquil escape right here in the city. Emerge totally rejuvenated with a spa treatment designed with you and your honey in mind.

Top spas for couples in Mexico City include:

• Royal Thai Spa (Polanco) $$$

*Writer’s note: The full-body massage I had here was one of the best of my life. I personally and highly recommend it. 

• Hela Spa (Roma Norte, Polanco, Santa Fe) $$$$
• Anandi Day Spa (Cuauhtémoc) $$

Luxurious day spas

 

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Whether you choose to go with your girlfriends or fly solo, a surefire way to relax and refresh is spending the day at the spa. Between the plethora of upscale hotels on Paseo de la Reforma and the near-hidden spa at everyone’s favorite department store, you have plenty of options to luxuriate this winter. 

Start your relaxation journey swimming in the rooftop pool at the St. Regis or with a thermal bath in the Marquis. Settle in the steam room before a cold plunge to stimulate blood flow. Chill out with a massage, facial, or mani pedi. Mexico City’s elite spas provide a range of therapies that run from premium to affordable, so you can stay within budget while feeling five-star.

Popular day spas in Mexico City include:

• Remède Spa at The St. Regis (Paseo de la Reforma) $$$$
• Spa Marquis (Paseo de la Reforma) $$$
• The Wellness House at Four Seasons (Juárez) $$$$
• Spa by Liverpool (Polanco) $$

Indigenous healing rituals

Mexico is a land of mysticism, interwoven so thoroughly with the Earth that ailments are often treated with natural ingredients or dietary changes before pharmaceutical prescriptions. Traditional healing therapies persist in Mexico and with fervor. Consider the popular Mayan healing ritual that incorporates space particles that resulted from a meteorite crashing into the Yucatán Peninsula millions of years ago.

The mud from this crater is scrubbed on the skin as the minerals repair the body’s immune system. Other curative elements used in many of Mexico’s indigenous healing rituals include lava shells, agave oil, volcanic salt and local herbs.

Spas that offer indigenous healing elements include:  

• Aurora Spa at Las Alcobas (Polanco) $$$$
• Pasana Spa & Wellness (Condesa) $$$
• Vitalí Clinica Spa (Condesa) $$

Ōnsen bath experience

This might be one of Mexico City’s best hidden gems. In the center of Cuauhtémoc, known at one time as Little Tokyo, is a semi-traditional ryokan hotel experience. According to reviews, the hotel itself leaves a bit to be desired but the rooftop onsen bath experience is a blast. Ōnsen is a traditional Japanese ritual centered around soaking in natural hot springs. While the water from these tubs doesn’t originate from hot springs, they are fun, and even better when sipping on champagne on a sunny day with a light breeze. 

Indulge in an onsen in CDMX at: 

• Ryo Kan (Cuauhtémoc) $$

Float therapy

Float therapy, also known as sensory deprivation, involves floating in a uniquely-designed bath tank filled with a high concentration of Epsom salt solution. The result is a zero-gravity environment where water and air temperature match that of the skin, minimizing sensory input from light and sound, which allows the mind to enter a meditative state. It’s said to significantly reduce stress and anxiety, relieve muscle tension, and improve sleep quality. Athletes such as Stephen Curry and Michael Phelps swear by float therapy for its ability to accelerate recovery and enhance creativity and focus. Sign up for a session of sensory deprivation and emerge a focused, creative, motivated holiday shopper! 

Float your fears away in Mexico City at: 

Calma Float and Wellness (Rome Norte) $$

Halotherapy

Colloquially known as salt therapy, halotherapy was discovered thanks to 19th century Polish physician Dr. Feliks Boczkowski, who observed that salt miners experienced fewer respiratory issues compared to other miners. His findings led him to establish the first health resort at the famous Wieliczka Salt Mines found just outside of Krakow. The benefits of inhaling salt particles lie in its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which are said to improve respiratory health and skin wellness. 

Here’s where to get salty in CDMX:

• The Salt Room (Polanco) $$$

Don’t see your favorite spa treatment listed here? Let other readers know the unique healing experiences you can find in Mexico City.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog or follow her on Instagram.

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Established: 1867

Location: 5 km Northeast of the Ángel de la Independencia 

Who lives here

Around 40,000 residents call Santa María la Ribera home. With an average age of 36 and a mean individual income of 6,840 pesos, the colonia is categorized as lower-middle-class. In recent years, its attractive prices and historic, Art Nouveau mansions have encouraged an influx of investors and upper-middle-class residents. Santa María la Ribera boasts an abundance of local shops, markets and restaurants, as well as staples like family-owned hardware stores, laundromats, and cantinas. It’s currently undergoing a revival after a period of neglect, and visitors will notice architectural restoration taking place alongside the construction of modern apartment buildings.

A brief history of Santa María la Ribera

Long before the Spanish arrived, the region of what in Santa María la Ribera was characterized by its proximity to Lake Texcoco, which served as a vital water source. In the 16th century, the area began to develop as a rural zone. Haciendas were built and agriculture was developed. With the era of Porfirio Díaz, came French-style mansions, making it one of the city’s most affluent suburbs. It was during this period that the Kiosko Morisco, designed by Mexican architect José Ramón Ibarrola for the 1884 World Cotton Centennial, was relocated from Alameda Park to its current location. 

A guide to Santa María la Ribera today

Santa María la Ribera is a vibrant, local neighborhood with threads of gentrification showing via almond-milk-cappuccino cafes and upscale pizza joints. What’s cool is that these places coexist next to mom-and-pop taquerías or a moody cantina from the ‘40s. Its centerpiece is the Kiosko Morisco, an intricately decorated pavilion that stands proud in the neighborhood’s park. The park itself is a treat, with dance classes, artisan markets, and music performances taking place at any given moment.

Surrounding the center is a testament to what Santa María la Ribera truly is — a mix of everything. You’ll see restaurants that range from Russian to Italian to Oaxacan, museums and theaters and contemporary art galleries. Maybe it’s the bustling nature of its residents, the barrage of undetectable sounds, or the smell of tamales wafting from street corners, that makes you really feel like you’re in Mexico.

Santa María la Ribera is great if you love: surprises. It’s slightly gritty in a way that makes it feel authentic, blending the ultra-modern with historic, the decrepit with the restored, street carts with fine dining, and the young professional with the cane-wielding abuelito who hasn’t left the ‘hood since the ‘80s.

What to do in Santa María la Ribera

Kiosco Morisco

This requires little explanation. You simply couldn’t miss it, even if you wanted to. It stands central to Alameda de Santa María, a beautiful public park with lush greenery, walking paths, and various recreational activities.

Galería Naranjo 141

A beautiful contemporary art gallery that gives young artists a space to exhibit their work. The setting is especially lovely, expertly designed to play with light and shadows.

Museo Universitario del Chopo

Known for its striking Art Nouveau architecture in a German style, this art museum hosts innovative exhibitions and cultural events.

Museo del Instituto de Geología

You’ll likely be drawn to the gorgeous facade and grand staircase anyway, so you might as well enter. The geology museum showcases a vast collection of fossils, minerals, and meteorites, making it a must-visit for geology enthusiasts.

 

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Parroquia Josefina de la Sagrada Familia

This incredibly unique church features bombastic Byzantine architecture with numerous cupolas and ornate windows. Like the rest of the colonia, it contrasts greatly with its neighbors in a charming way.

Mercado La Dalia

A visit to Santa María la Ribera isn’t complete without a pop into its bustling local market brimming with fresh produce, sizzling tamales, and various artisanal goods. 

Tianguis Cultural del Chopo

The famous Saturday flea market is situated just outside Santa María la Ribera in neighboring Buenavista, and is known for its alternative culture, selling everything from vinyl to vintage clothes.

Casa Chopo

Even if you don’t plan to spend a night here, would you, perhaps, pretend you’re interested? This way, you can get reception to take you on a tour of the enchanting Casa Chopo, a renovated Porfiriato home-turned-boutique hotel.

Casa de los Mascarones

Easily recognizable by the dozens of masks that make up the facade, the Count of Valle de Orizaba’s mansion was erected in 1776. He died before construction finished and the house remained empty and, obviously, haunted. Rumors of apparitions and strange noises persist to this day.

What to eat in Santa María la Ribera

Coyota

A favorite among locals, Coyota’s casual, friendly atmosphere and colorful decor strongly reflect Mexican culture. It’s irresistibly situated on a small park so you can watch a pickup soccer match while indulging in fresh fish tacos and a sharp mezcal.

 

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El Revolcadero 

Seeing that this cheerful spot is connected to the ontemporary art gallery Acapulco 62, it’s no wonder they boast a fresh menu of seaside-inspired dishes and cocktails.

Jametaro 

Santa Maria la Ribera’s international culinary scene is hotter than you might have realized. Jametero, a cozy Japanese eatery, attracts ramen lovers who appreciate its distinct blend of traditional Japanese flavors with local ingredients.

Restaurante Xuva

Elegant, relaxed, innovative, sustainable. These four words sum up the stand-out dining experience you’re sure to have at Xuva, whose focus on Oaxacan coastal flavors draws foodies of all kinds. 

María Ciento38

The restaurant is so lovely that one almost doesn’t care about the food. Luckily, that’s good too. Dine in the gorgeous garden or inside the artsy-rustic house, chowing down on pizza, pasta, and other Italian favorites.

 

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Salón Puebla

Salón Puebla exudes a nostalgic charm reminiscent of a classic Mexican cantina, complete with vintage decor and friendly patrons. As you may have guessed, their mole poblano comes highly recommended, as does the paella.

Kolobok

Forbes and Entrepreneur have sung their praises for Mexico City’s most famous Russian restaurant. From the authentically Russky food to the furnishings, there’s a more-than-good chance you’ll completely forget you’re in Mexico.

Camino a Comala

Snug and tranquil, this cute little cafe is the perfect place to pause over a freshly brewed drip coffee and a sweet treat.

One hidden gem

The tiny, hidden street called Callejón Chopo-Pino will temporarily transport you to Notting Hill, if only for a few minutes. Meander down the picturesque alley lined with colorful British-style townhouses, vivacious gardens, and eclectic architecture.

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.

The post Know your Mexico City neighborhood: Santa María la Ribera appeared first on Mexico News Daily

And if you did, then great news! We’ve rounded up some of the best things to do in the capital but this time, we’ve added a festive twist to get you into the holiday spirit.

Piñata Exhibit at the Museum of Popular Art

One of the best things about being in Mexico for the holidays are the elaborate piñatas hanging all over the city! Instead of wandering aimlessly in search of the giant festive ornaments, make your way to the Museum of Popular Art (MAP), where a colorful exhibit of 200 piñatas awaits. Artists from all over Mexico display their creations, with shapes ranging from the traditional five-pointed star to sea creatures, flowers and typical foods.

Dates: Now through December 15
Location: Museo de Arte Popular
Cost: Entry is 60 pesos person

The Nutcracker

Nothing says the holidays like Tchaikovsky’s timeless classic. Head to Ciudad Universitaria for a magical adventure with the Filarmónica de las Artes and the Compañía de Danza de las Artes. This fairy-tale ballet unfolds under the enchanting direction of E. Abraham Vélez Godoy

Dates: Dec. 5, 2024 – Jan. 5, 2025
Location: Auditorio Fra Angelico, Centro Universitario Cultural
Cost: Tickets start at 400 pesos per person

Ice skating at the Four Seasons

Find your winter wonderland at the Four Seasons’ dreamy Secret Terrace. Among festive decor and cozy food stalls selling seasonal treats and sweets is a giant, eco-friendly ice skating rink! Admission includes skate rentals, as well as tickets for food and drinks. Entry also grants you 20 percent off at on-site restaurants and bars. Don’t miss the magical Christmas tree in the ground floor lobby.

Dates: Dec. 5 – Jan. 5, 2025
Location: Four Seasons Mexico City (Paseo de la Reforma 500, La Juárez)
Cost: Tickets start at 1,297 pesos for adults and 702 pesos for children

Santa Run in Santa Fe

Itching to don your Santa costume already? Here’s your chance! Put on your red hat, lace up your sneakers and join fellow run enthusiasts in Parque La Mexicana for a festive Santa Run. Jog with your kid, your pet or on your own. Distances of 1, 5, or 10 kilometers are available, as are the obligatory Santa suits. When you’re done, hit up Fisher’s for a free breakfast. If you love sports and Christmas, this is the event for you!

Dates: Dec. 15
Location: Parque La Mexicana
Cost: Tickets start at 660 pesos per person

Christmas bazaar in Condesa

Get your holiday shopping done at the vibrant Christmas bazaar in Condesa! The atmosphere will be filled with colorful decorations, twinkling lights and joyful holiday music. This market features an array of unique gifts, so if you’re looking for locally made ornaments, artisanal toys and ceramics, this is a perfect place to find it. While you shop, indulge in holiday snacks like buñuelos and traditional hot chocolate. 

Dates: Dec. 16 – 17
Location: Nuevo León 80
Cost: Free to enter

José Guadalupe Posada at Los Pinos

Celebrate the legacy of famed caricaturist José Guadalupe Posada, best known for creating the Catrina skeleton of Día de los Muertos fame, at the exhibition “La vida no vale nada.” Set in the former presidential residence inside Chapultepec Park, caricaturist Gonzalo Rocha pays homage to the legendary artist with prints and artwork highlighting Posada’s iconic style.

Dates: Month of December
Location: Complejo Cultural Los Pinos
Cost: Free to enter

Alan Glass: A Surprising Discovery

Explore the whimsical world of Canadian artist Alan Glass at the Palace of Fine Arts. This retrospective showcases 125 pieces spanning over five decades, demonstrating his surrealist creations and collaborations with Leonora Carrington, André Breton and Alejandro Jodorowsky. Browse a peculiar display of paintings, drawings and video installations, all divided into three thematic sections.

Dates: Through Feb. 16, 2025
Location: Palacio de Bellas Artes
Cost: 90 pesos per person

Candlelight Christmas carols

Entertainment platform Fever’s ever-so-popular Candlelight series, an ongoing collection of atmospheric concerts held in iconic venues around the world, is getting in the spirit. For two nights only, immerse yourself in a multisensory music experience highlighting Christmas classics like “White Christmas,” “Holy Night” and “Let it Snow.” The 60-minute performance includes piano, saxophone, drums and guitar, and is accompanied by hundreds of candles, making it an optimal choice for a romantic night out.

Dates: Dec. 20 – 21
Location: El Cantoral
Cost: Tickets start at 250 pesos per person

Ballet Christmas in Mexico 

Join the Ballet Folklórico de México for “Navidades en México,” a vibrant celebration of Mexican culture. From the story of the Nativity to the litany heard during a posada, this is one of the best ways to immerse in Mexican holiday tradition. This performance runs from Dec. 25 to 29 and showcases folkloric dances that embody the spirit of the season.

Dates: Dec. 25 – 29
Location: Chapultepec Castle
Cost: Tickets start at 1,180 per person

New Year’s Eve dinner at Galea

If you’re in the mood for something casual and intimate to ring in the New Year, head to this cozy Italian restaurant in Roma Norte. The delicious dishes and European atmosphere recently caught the attention of the Michelin Guide, landing Galea on the Bib Gourmand list. Enjoy an exquisite dinner featuring gourmet bites like foie gras mousse and duck in a black truffle cherry sauce. Of course, it wouldn’t be New Year’s Eve without the bubbly, which comes included in the price. Tasting options are available.

Dates: Dec. 31
Location: Galea (Sinaloa 67, Roma Norte)
Cost: Tickets start at 2,700 pesos per person

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.

The post What’s on in Mexico City in December? appeared first on Mexico News Daily

Of course, my primary intention was to talk about food. After all, Barbara is an award-winning chef, co-author of a cookbook, and owner of East Village gem La Palapa Cocina Mexicana, going on its 25th year in business. But I quickly realized that Barbara’s not just about the ingredients — though she’s got a lot to say about them too — but more about the deeper connection food has to culture and identity.

Who is Barbara Sibley, the East Village’s Mexican chef extraordinaire?

Barbara Sibley is first and foremost an artist, both culinary and visual. Born and raised in Mexico City, her first job was as a receptionist in a factory. “I hated it,” she reflects, adding that there was, however, one perk of the position. Every afternoon, ladies from the neighborhood would walk by selling tacos de canasta. “Even then, food was the highlight!” Barbara laughs.

Not long after, Barbara moved to Michigan for school. The culture shock was visceral. In lieu of dancing at parties, her classmates would drink to inebriation. Instead of sitting around a table after dinner conversing, an act so common in Latin America that it has its own word — sobremesa — friends would immediately rise and move to the T.V. “It was so removed from what I was used to,” she says. “My childhood was very Mexican, definitely not North American.”

Just as Barbara didn’t understand the United States, her classmates didn’t understand Mexico. “Do you go to school on a donkey?” she remembers being asked. The disconnect between the two cultures became more apparent as a budding chef. Addressing the general naivete amongst Americans when it came to Mexican food became part of her daily tasks. 

 “All my menus were educational exercises and I had to pay close attention to how I wrote them,” she says. She would include detailed descriptions of each plate. If she didn’t, patrons would simply order the only thing they knew how to pronounce: enchiladas.

Today, Mexican food is one of the most popular cuisines worldwide, and we’re not talking Chili’s Classic Nachos. The authentic menu at La Palapa Cocina Mexicana has everything from street cart-style jicama to the Yucatán staple cochinita pibil, influenced not only by Barbara’s childhood, but also by her dedicated research. She spent years collecting traditional, rare and pre-Colombian Mexican recipes, and studying the notes and style of Diana Kennedy, the world-famous British food writer. Kennedy authored nine books on Mexican cooking, including “The Art of Mexican Cooking” and “Oaxaca al Gusto: An Infinite Gastronomy.”

Here’s what Barbara had to say about her journey from Mexico’s vibrant capital to the Big Apple, her favorite flavors, and what she really misses — and doesn’t miss — about Mexico.

The one ingredient she couldn’t live without

Ask Barbara what she’d never give up in the kitchen, and the answer is quick: arbol chilis. For her, these tiny, spicy peppers pack a punch, and they’re a key player in the symphony that is Mexican cuisine. A cuisine that, for better or for worse, has been replicated with gusto across the United States. 

From Tex-Mex to tacos, Barbara loves it all. “I could never get bored of the traditional. Every single time you make a mole, it’s different,” she says. That’s because it’s never about the dish itself, but how it’s made. The simpler it is, the more authentic it tastes, and you can practically hear the love in her voice when she talks about giving her favorite bites, like humble huauzontles, the care they deserve.

What Americans can learn from Mexican culture

It’s no secret that U.S. citizens are flocking to Mexico by the thousands, and Barbara has some thoughts on the matter. Having spent decades in New York City, doing her part to bridge the cultural gap between the U.S. and Mexico through the art of cuisine, she’s noticed a thing or two.

There are clear differences between Mexico and the U.S., particularly when it comes to art and self-expression. “In Mexico, it’s cool to be both an architect and a painter, or a bureaucrat and a poet. There’s room to be multiple things at once.” As a chef, a business owner and a painter, she quickly realized that in the U.S., mixing roles, especially in the arts, makes it harder to be taken seriously.

Perhaps that has to do with each country’s emphasis on the arts. Mexico spends about 0.07 percent of its federal budget on culture and the arts. The U.S. allocates only 0.002 percent. In Mexico, “people enjoy art,” she says, and that cultural support is something she believes U.S. artists living in Mexico could benefit from.

What a CDMX transplant in NYC misses

Barbara’s love for her homeland runs deep. “I miss the people the most,” she says. Most of her family and friends still reside in CDMX. But it’s more than Sunday dinners with parents and aunts and uncles and cousins: it’s the people you encounter at the flower stand on the corner or the local lonchería. There’s a type of kindness and friendliness amongst Mexicans that’s hard to replicate anywhere else. 

While her heart longs for the warmth of those daily encounters, there’s one thing Barbara doesn’t miss at all: the traffic. “It’s changed the city,” she says, noting how it’s become nearly impossible to have friends scattered across different parts of town. I mean, really, who’s going to Santa Fe from Condesa for a Thursday happy hour? Not me, thanks.

It’s all about the tamal

Barbara has a vision: a street cart in the heart of Mexico City selling tamales. At least for now. Tomorrow she might crave something different. For the moment, the successful chef is living and breathing tamales in her preparation for a pop-up tamal cart in New York’s Bryant Park. Through Jan. 5, she’ll be bundled up and dishing out homemade tamales stuffed with Oaxaca cheese and huitlacoche, as well as steaming cups of champurrado. 

It’s the kind of food that takes her right back home, no matter where she is.

What Barbara inadvertently reminded me about relationships

If there’s one thing most lovers of Mexican food can agree on, it’s that you can taste the care and attention that goes into cooking it. Each bite explodes with juxtapositions: equal parts spicy and sweet, saucy yet dense. And while the flavors are complex, the dish is somehow simple. The taste isn’t manipulated as much as it’s amplified. To succeed in contrast, there’s one thing you’ve got to do with each ingredient: give it love and let it be itself.

Barbara’s reflections on her culinary journey emphasize the power of food as a bridge to understanding cultures. Whether it’s a tamal from a street vendor or a rich mole passed down through generations, food connects us all. And for Barbara, it’s that relationship between food, culture and identity that continues to inspire her, both in and out of the kitchen. 

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.

The post A Mexican chef in New York: An interview with Barbara Sibley appeared first on Mexico News Daily

Absolutely dripping in marigolds and Day of the Dead decor, this Pueblo Mágico regularly draws tourists for its year-round warm and humid climate. It’s about a 30-minute drive from Puebla city and boasts magnificent views of the surrounding mountains, including the beloved Popocatépetl volcano. Late October is a particularly attractive time of year to visit, as Atlixcans truly go all out for the holiday.

The Valle de Catrinas project started in 2021 with five giant skeleton statues adorning various streets and strategic corners of town. This year, that number has jumped to 15 fantastical figures representing important figures in Mexico’s history, like Emiliano Zapata.

Atlixco’s stunning Day of the Dead in pictures

Also present was Porfirio Díaz, who ruled Mexico in the late 19th and early 20th centuries leading up to the Mexican Revolution.

Cuauhtémoc, the last king of the Mexica Empire, was also represented.

Revolutionary leader Pancho Villa was also represented, with a very literal homage to his nickname, the Centaur of the North.

As is the custom, many shops, hotels and restaurants showcased not just catrinas, but also elaborate altars for visitors to enjoy. 

Atlixco’s popularity as a wedding destination led locals to create “La novia de Atlixco,” or the bride of Atlixco.

This classic, stylish catrina greets visitors at the entrance of Casa de la Audiencia, a 16th-century building that now serves as an upscale hotel.

Through social media, visitors uncovered a hidden altar at Xolo Mezcalería.

Artist Omar Rangel’s monumental altar at Molino de San Mateo wasn’t just a creative masterpiece – it included an interactive screen for visitors to project photos of their loved ones.

Rangel also constructed a 5-meter-tall altar made solely of bread.

Just a 40-minute ride away is the charming town of Huaquechula, renowned for its majestic altars. Starting in the town’s main square, visitors can follow the journey of a soul from death to the afterlife.

Start in the graveyard, where “causes of death” are written on simple grave markers. This poor soul seems to have suffered dire consequences after some WhatsApp messages came to light.

Souls make their way along the river Apanohuaia on small, brightly-painted boats, dodging potential dangers with the help of the small but mighty Xolo dog. This is just one of nine harrowing stages the dead must pass in order to reach the afterlife.

A golden path of flowers insinuates that the afterlife has successfully been reached. 

Some homes were open for the public to enter and pay their respects.

Upon return to Atlixco, I couldn’t leave without climbing Mirador de Cristal on Cerro de San Miguel. I left my hotel on the outskirts of the Zócalo and made my way uphill. The walk was, by all standards, very pleasant. 

Parroquia de Santa María de la Natividad is a few blocks away from Atlixco’s main square and looks like an elaborately-decorated cake.

The arts and crafts market takes over a small alley just off the Zocalo.

Avenida Hidalgo, also known as flower street, is full of shops and eating establishments, all which were decorated to the nines for the holiday.

Atlixco is quite lovely to stroll before 9:00 a.m. It’s a sleepy town, with few cafes opening earlier than that.

There are street murals everywhere, many created by local artist Juan Manuel Martínez Caltenco.

The uphill walk to the Mirador Cristal is lined with scenic views and beautiful flowers.

How to reach Atlixco from Mexico City

Take the E-Bus to Paseo Destino, Puebla, which takes between two to three hours. From here, you can Uber about 30 minutes to the center of Atlixco. Alternatively, you can take the ADO bus line from TAPO to CAPU, Puebla’s central station. From CAPU, take the ORO bus to Atlixco’s city center, about 30 minutes.

Upcoming festivals in Atlixco

Christmas Lights Festival (Brilla Fest): Nov. 15 – Dec. 30
Holy Week (Semana Santa): April 14 – 25

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.

The post Why Atlixco is Mexico’s best Day of the Dead destination appeared first on Mexico News Daily

Who lives here

Of the 26,600 residents that live in this lively neighborhood south of Condesa, the majority are long-time residents, as well as middle-class families and young professionals looking for an affordable alternative to Condesa and Roma. Escandón’s location and agreeable cost of living attracts real estate investors with an eye for up-and-coming neighborhoods.

Escandón has a very local feel, with residential buildings interspersed among small businesses and traditional markets. Still relatively undiscovered by the expat crowd, visitors might notice a stronger sense of community here than in the neighboring colonias.

A brief history of Escandón

The neighborhood is named after the Escandón family.  The aristocratic Escandóns acquired wealth through business ventures in transportation, mining and real estate, becoming one of Mexico’s richest and most powerful families in the 19th century. In 1869, a family patriarch purchased part of the former Hacienda de la Condesa, which was broken up into what would eventually become neighborhoods including the present-day Condesa and Escandón. In the late 1800s, it remained part of the town of Tacubaya, on the outskirts of Mexico City, and the family’s personal estate.  

Escandón became part of the Federal District (what is now Mexico City) in 1929. With the culmination of the Mexican Revolution, Escandón transitioned into a residential neighborhood, largely occupied by military officers and their families. The construction and expansion of major thoroughfares like Eje 4 Sur and Viaducto in the mid-20th century gave the neighborhood the shape we know today.

A guide to Escandón today

Quiet and full of families, Escandón’s strategic location provides easy access to other popular areas like Condesa and Roma while maintaining its own sense of self. It’s known for its affordability, cultural richness and local charm.

Escandón is bordered by Eje 4 Sur Benjamín Franklin and Avenida Baja California to the north, Viaducto Río Becerra to the south, Avenida Nuevo León to the east and Avenida Revolución to the west.

The neighborhood is divided into two sections on either side of Avenida Patriotismo. Section I is the western half of the colonia, bordering Tacubaya along Avenida Revolución. It’s a slightly more residential mix of historic buildings with modern developments. The population is noticeably older and quieter when compared to its eastern counterpart, which has more mom-and-pop shops and family parks and borders Roma Sur along Avenida Nuevo León. The crowd is a bit younger and diverse, likely attracted to the denser concentration of cafes, restaurants, and boutique shops. Both sections share a northern border with Condesa in the form of Eje 4 Sur.

Escandón is great if you love: Exploring sides of CDMX that are less commercial than Roma and Condesa but equally brimming with history, tradition, and life. It’s a safe pocket showcasing a genuine slice of local life, with small shops, markets and eateries that reflect the everyday culture of Mexico City.

What to do in Escandón

Parroquia de San José de la Montaña: The small church on Eje 4 Sur seems unassuming from the street, but a pop inside reveals a gorgeous display of stained glass windows.

Centro Cultural Roldán Sandoval: With a full lineup of unique shows and artsy events, the quirky 1970s theater is considered one of the neighborhood’s most important cultural spaces.

Edificio Martí: The iconic Art Deco building designed in 1931 by architect Francisco J. Serrano is one of Escandón’s most beautiful. It can be found on Calle Sindicalismo, close to the corner with Calle José Martí.

Mercado Escandón: For over 30 years this center has played a role much larger than a community market. It’s a gathering place for locals, making a stop here more of a Mexico City immersion than a shopping experience. Have a bite at Playa Escondida Market.

Guadalajara90210: Jalisco’s unique nomadic art gallery has a permanent space, but not a permanent collection, in Escandón. 

Pulquería la Pirata: Channel your inner bohemian when you step through the saloon-style swinging door of this no-frills pulque bar, a neighborhood staple for 80 years.

Tuesday tianguis: From 7:30 a.m. until 5:30 p.m. the charming Calle José María Vigil plays host to an open-air market selling everything from embroidered baby clothes to fresh spinach.

Sombrerería Escandón: Need a hat? Step inside Escandón’s premier hat shop, where Don Ignacio will find for you the perfect style and fit.

What to eat in Escandón

Terraza Micheviche: The beer, seafood, and large, lively terrace at this casual dining spot is the perfect way to end a day of wandering.

OPPA: This highly-rated, Korean-owned restaurant is cool, casual, and known for its authentic home-cooked meals and charming atmosphere. Fill up on a steaming bowl of flavorful ramen on the cozy outdoor patio.

Via Sol: Who knew delicate and juicy dumplings could pair so well with wine? Be sure to check the events calendar, as the little restaurant has a lot going on.

Cantina El León de Oro: It has all you could possibly want in a classic cantina: formica tables, bright lighting, flatscreen TVs and the occasional mariachi appearance. However, it’s the hearty menu and lively ambiance that keep the locals coming back again and again.

Conejo Rojo Coffee: When it’s time for a pick-me-up, why not stop for an organic coffee in the Red Rabbit? Admire the alternative art on the walls while the barista whips up a French press brew. 

Café Escandón: Overflowing with trinkets and snacks, you simply cannot come to this side of town without peeking in. While perusing Mexican handicrafts, sip on a hot chocolate bubbled over with marshmallows. 

One hidden gem in Escandón 

There is something about the quiet energy of Calle José María Vigil that will sweep you away to a Mexico City of the past. Tiny and leafy, stroll past pops of street art, dangling hummingbird feeders, multicolored facades, a lone bakery and the occasional friendly neighbor on the way home from the market. 

Bethany Platanella is a travel planner and lifestyle writer based in Mexico City. She lives for the dopamine hit that comes directly after booking a plane ticket, exploring local markets, practicing yoga and munching on fresh tortillas. Sign up to receive her Sunday Love Letters to your inbox, peruse her blog, or follow her on Instagram.

The post Know your Mexico City neighborhood: Escandón appeared first on Mexico News Daily