Fishing groups across the region blame the massive die-off on a lack of oxygenation in the water due to poor management at the Mexicana de Hidroelectricidad Mexhidro (Mexhidro) hydroelectric plant, located in the municipality of Cutzamala de Pinzón.

“For four days now, the tilapia has been dying in the entire dam; it is sad that neither the state nor the federal government pay attention. Who knows what they want us to do?” a local group of fishermen from the Guerrero town of La Dicha told the newspaper La Jornada.

Mexico’s National Water Commission (Conagua) constructed the El Gallo dam on the Cutzamala River in the northwestern part of the state of Guerrero to expand the irrigation system to the valleys of Cutzamala and Ciudad Altamirano.

In 2007, Mexhidro completed a hydroelectric plant to produce clean energy for the states of Morelos, Michoacán, Guerrero and México state.

Fishing groups say that the floodgates at the dam are not opened often enough, leading to a lack of water oxygenation, which then causes mass fish die-offs. The eight cooperatives operating in the region have reported similar experiences along the reservoir’s 30-kilometer length.

| Alertan por pérdida de unas 100 toneladas de tilapia en la presa El Gallo.
https://t.co/agH2S1jgGE pic.twitter.com/eHIOWaHd2z

— El Sur periódico de Guerrero (@elsurdeguerrero) December 31, 2024

The cooperatives have been reporting the issue since 2013 and are now calling on President Claudia Sheinbaum to intervene. Fishermen previously caught between 20 and 30 metric tons of fish a year in the region, supporting the supply of Mexico City’s famous La Viga fish market. However, this figure has fallen significantly in recent years.

Each metric ton of fish lost is valued at 50,000 to 60,000 pesos (US $2,420-2,905), according to reports from the news site Sur Acapulco.

Local fishing groups have threatened to protest if the government does not intervene.

Cutzamala: A key Mexican waterway

The Cutzamala River originates in the central state of Michoacán and ends in Guerrero. Dams on the upper part of the river provide water to Mexico City, via an aqueduct over the mountains known as the Cutzamala System.

The system is one of the world’s largest networks of dams, canals and pipes, supplying around 27% of the capital’s water. However, in recent years, water levels in the system have decreased due to drought and other factors, falling to a historic low of below 30% in May 2024, according to Conagua.

As Mexico City officials race to develop alternative water networks, Mayor Clara Brugada last week announced a plan to halve the capital’s reliance on the Cutzamala reservoir system for the next two years. The goal of cutting withdrawals is to allow the water levels of Cutzamala System reservoirs to recover from extended drought conditions, and any excess water could boost downstream reservoirs like El Gallo in Guerrero.

With reports from La Jornada, Sur Acapulco, The New York Times and Infobae

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The Chiapas Attorney General’s Office and the state Security Ministry said Sunday that 15 bodies were found in the municipality of La Concordia in recent days, while two additional bodies were located in Palenque. All 17 bodies belonged to men.

La Concordia is located in southern Chiapas near the border region where the Sinaloa Cartel and the Jalisco New Generation Cartel are engaged in a long-running turf war.

Palenque, a municipality in northeastern Chiapas on the state’s border with Tabasco, is best known for the Palenque archaeological site. It is part of a region that has also been affected by cartel violence.

Chiapas Attorney General Jorge Luis Llaven Abarca told a press conference on Sunday that the 15 bodies discovered in La Concordia were found in 11 clandestine graves on two properties. Ten of the bodies were “mutilated,” he said, explaining that the victims had been “tortured” before they were killed.

“They have cuts in different parts of their bodies. They’re dismembered,” he said.

Chiapas Governor Eduardo Ramírez said on social media on Saturday that in addition to the discovery of 15 bodies in the Frailesca region, of which La Concordia is part, four people were arrested and weapons, vehicles and drugs were seized during a state government security operation.

“We will continue with the operation. … We’re reestablishing tranquility and social peace in the region. We won’t take a backward step!” he wrote.

The two bodies discovered in Palenque were in two clandestine graves in the locality of Nueva Esperanza.

All 17 bodies found in Chiapas were taken to morgues to undergo testing aimed at determining the identities of the deceased, the cause of their deaths and how long they have been dead.

Authorities in southern Mexico are continuing to search for clandestine graves in Chiapas, with the municipality of Catazajá, which borders Palenque, a current focus.

Llaven said that authorities are searching for people who have been forcibly abducted or “disappeared.”

He said that the Chiapas Attorney General’s Office had received 124 reports of cases of enforced disappearance this year but acknowledged that many cases go unreported due to families’ fear of reprisal.

The discovery of the 17 bodies in La Concordia and Palenque came after human remains were found earlier this month in Emiliano Zapata, a municipality near Tuxtla Gutiérrez, the capital of Chiapas. Authorities have not yet determined how many people the charred remains belonged to. They were specifically searching for seven people who were abducted in November, among whom was a 12-year-old boy.

‘Possibly human’ remains found in municipality that borders US

The Chihuahua Attorney General’s Office (FGE) said last Thursday that “bone remains” of 12 “indeterminate skeletons” had been found in 11 clandestine graves in the municipality of Ascensión, which borders New Mexico.

The discovery of the remains occurred during search operations carried out on Dec. 18, 19 and 20, the FGE said in a statement.

The exhumation of the “possibly human” remains was carried out by forensic anthropologists and other experts, the Attorney General’s Office said. The experts collected spent cartridge cases from the graves, the FGE said.

“The indeterminate skeletons and evidence found were transported to the laboratories of the Forensic Medical Service in Ciudad Juárez for analysis and investigations to determine identities and the cause and time of death,” the FGE said.

The Chihuahua Attorney General’s Office has not yet announced the results of the testing.

Chihuahua, which borders both New Mexico and Texas, is one of Mexico’s most violent states.

With more than 1,800 homicides between January and November, the northern state ranked fourth among the country’s 32 federal entities for total murders in the first 11 months of 2024.

With reports from El Universal and EFE 

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Each year, participants get to work carving their radishes into extravagant figures to display in front of a panel of judges for their chance to win a cash prize. There are several categories, including “anything goes” (libre) and traditional Oaxacan themes, as well as children and youth competitions. All entrants must be from Oaxaca state. 

Participants have carved a wide array of figures in the past, from mariachis to Mexican luchadores. Many choose religious themes, such as The Last Supper and the Nativity, given the competition’s proximity to Christmas. Sculptures often weigh as much as three kilograms. 

“The Night of the Radishes is as significant to us as Christmas,” local tour guide Andrea Hagan told the news site Thrillist in 2023. 

In the traditional design category, first place went to Carlos David Vásquez López, with his work “The flavor of my land, a homage to traditional Oaxacan gastronomy”; second place went to Adolfo Martínez Aquino, with “Virgin of Juquila, Oaxaca and our faith” and third place went to Karla Edith López Vázquez, with her work “Oaxaca, land of the great, legacy of traditions.”

In the “anything goes” category, first place went to Oliver Mijangos Amador, for “Metamorphosis: Mystical nahuales“; second to Omar Díaz Ventura, with “Amphisbena and Pegasus” and third to Roberto Isaac Muñoz Velasco, for “The hummingbird and the Xoloitzcuintle: The messengers of Mictlán.”

#Oaxaca | Para muchos participantes, la Noche de Rábanos es más que una competencia; es una expresión de identidad y orgullo. Son felices con solo participar.

Óscar García/Quadratín pic.twitter.com/bUxsipvqtU

— Quadratín Oaxaca (@Quadratinoaxaca) December 24, 2024

Approximately 10,000 attended the event ahead of the judging.

Radish seeds are planted by Oaxaca’s municipal government in El Tequio National Park in nearby Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán at the end of September each year to be harvested on December 19 and distributed to participants free of charge. A reported 18 tonnes of the tuber were harvested in 2022. 

In addition to radishes, participants created corn husk figurines (totomoxtle) and bright dried flower (flor inmortal) displays. 

The creole radishes used for the event are inedible, therefore, after the competition, they are documented and processed to be utilized as fertilizer. 

The origin of Oaxaca’s Night of the Radishes

Radishes are native to China but were introduced to Mexico by the Spanish, who found that they grew like weeds. Legend states that friars in the mid-18th century pulled up some forgotten radishes in December and took them to the market as curiosities. 

In 1897, Oaxaca’s then-municipal president Francisco Vasconcelos established the first official radish-carving contest to celebrate the creativity of Oaxacan artisans and manage the excess crop, which has since become an annual tradition. 

Te presentamos a los ganadores de esta edición, quienes con sus extraordinarias creaciones han logrado cautivar a todos los asistentes de esta tradicional noche de Rábanos … https://t.co/lpqxhy0sTm pic.twitter.com/GPaMcnG3Fu

— Secretaría de Fomento Turístico Oaxaca de Juárez (@aoaxacavoy) December 24, 2024

Take a look at the winners of this year’s Night of the Radishes.

Judgment night 

A panel of judges picked by the Tourism Ministry, including former competition winners, such as “Lord of the Radishes” Juan Manuel García Esperanza, who won the grand prize 18 years in a row, assess aesthetics, creativity and technique to crown the winners. They also check that nothing synthetic, other than toothpicks, has been used to hold the sculptures together. 

A second edition of the Night of Radishes parade is expected to be formally announced, which in 2023 included themed floats, for more people across the city to see the impressive radish creations. 

With reports from Imparcial Oaxaca, Mexico Desconocido, Quadratín Oaxaca, Thrillist and El Universal

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Their approach involves planting new fir forests at temperatures where the butterfly’s preferred place to hibernate can thrive.

Between late October and early November, hundreds of millions of monarch butterflies migrate 2,500 miles from the northern United States and southern Canada to hibernate in Mexico’s fir forests.

The fir tree thrives in the humid, cold climate found along the border between Michoacán and México state, home to the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve. However, climate change is gradually changing the ecosystems of Mexico’s forests, putting the monarch’s habitat under threat from increasingly severe temperature changes, droughts and pests. 

“During the day, under the shade of the fir tree, the environment remains 5 degrees (Celsius) colder than outside. It is a protection against high temperatures. At night, it is the other way around, resulting in 5 degrees warmer,” Cuauhtémoc Sáenz Romero, the lead author of the study “Establishing monarch butterfly overwintering sites for future climates,” told the news site Wired. 

The density of the canopy of these trees acts as protection against winter rain. “If the temperature drops below zero and the butterflies get their wings wet, they can freeze. That is why these trees represent such a particular habitat,” Sáenz added.

According to Sáenz’s study, some climate change models suggest that the climate habitat suitable for monarchs could disappear by 2090 in the existing Monarch Reserve.  

“If at 3,000 meters, the fir trees had an average temperature of 10 degrees, now they will find that temperature at 3,300 meters. That is, the climate keeps moving upwards, but the trees cannot move [anywhere],” stated Sáenz Romero.

Assisted butterfly migration

Scientists and conservationists are now working together, alongside the Indigenous community of Calimaya, to move fir seedlings to higher and colder areas in the region to create new butterfly habitats.  

In 2017, the team chose the Nevado de Toluca volcano in Mexico state to plant the new forests, having assessed factors such as altitude, orientation, soil type and future climatic condition forecasts. 

Good news from El Rosario colony. Gradual population concentration. “They’ve kept flying all over our region since their arrival. Some are now clustering.” Remember to read our new MBF newsletter and to donate generously today – GivingTuesday: https://t.co/B1OoKqBKYt pic.twitter.com/5uw8abEBqr

— MonarchButterflyFund (@mbfmonarchs) December 3, 2024

Over the last seven years, they have transplanted seedlings from cone seeds collected from eight stands in the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve and planted almost 1,000 trees at four sites on the northeast slope of the volcano, at altitudes of 3,400, 3,600, 3,800 and 4,000 meters. 

The project would not have taken off without the Indigenous community involved, Sáenz stressed. “They understand that their work implies a positive effort for their forest. In addition, they have a great sense of attachment to their territory and a lot of ecological knowledge. They know where and when to collect the seeds,” explained Sáenz. 

The group must now ensure the survival of the seedlings during the first years of life, as well as consider their genetic adaptation to the new environmental conditions. The trees must be able to resist lower temperatures, stronger winds and less water availability to survive. The team aims to establish healthy trees by 2060.  

During the winter of 2023-2024, the population of monarch butterflies in typical hibernation locations was down nearly 60%, according to a report from Mexico’s National Commission of Protected Natural Areas (Conanp).  

While the monarchs have yet to migrate to the northwest slope of Nevado de Toluca, they were reported on the southwest side, which Sáenz said suggests they are searching for new places to spend the winter months.  

The monarch visitation season

The Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve in Michoacán is a popular tourist site, attracting up to 200,000 visitors every year.  

The main visitor sites include Sierra Chincua, Senguio and El Rosario in Michoacán and Piedra Herrada, which is located just 18 miles from the lake town of Valle de Bravo in México state. 

Conanp announced the opening of the 2024 season starting Nov. 15 and ending March 31, 2025, and emphasized the importance of ecological conservation at the reserve. 

With reports from ecoPortal, Wired, CB Televisión, El Sol de Morelia and National Geographic

The post The Mexican scientists ‘moving mountains’ to help migrating monarch butterflies appeared first on Mexico News Daily

Sierra Norte’s selection currently showcases six expressions made from carefully selected corn cobs: black, white, yellow, red, purple and rainbow, the last of which comes from corn that grows with multi-colored cobs. Each has a unique flavor. Typically the expressions are finished at 45 percent after two years in toasted French oak barrels. 

Corn has been grown in Oaxaca for thousands of years and is the basis of much of the traditional diet. Therefore it is exciting that whiskey brands like Sierra Norte are finally emerging from the region, sharing the rich and delicious flavor of Oaxaca’s corn whiskey with the world. 

Founder Douglas French is better known for his mezcal brand Scorpion, which he launched in the mid-1990s with the help of a team of local women. Since then Scorpion has been produced at their distillery in San Agustín de las Juntas. Following a period of agave scarcity, French and his team began to explore distilling other Oaxacan products.

While scouring markets for agave, French met farmers from the Sierra Norte selling different colored corn cobs. He planted some of the grains in his own fields and shared the outcome with local growers. Now there are several producers he can buy the grains from, to produce Sierra Norte whiskey. 

The Sierra Norte distillery is located in San Agustín, about 30 minutes from downtown Oaxaca, hidden down a narrow dusty street, behind a large but unassuming gate. Once inside, however, visitors find a lush plant nursery, bursting at the seams with flowers and young agave plants. Literally tons of old industrial textile machine parts have been repurposed into sculptures and plant pots. 

 

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There is also some rustic but impressive equipment for the production of mezcal and now whiskey. Alongside the big copper pots used for distillation, members of the Sierra Norte team go through hundreds of cobs of corn, separating the cobs into piles by color. Some pull kernels by hand.

Manager Rogelio Hernández Vez explains that to develop the Scorpion mezcal distillery for whiskey, “4000 liter-tanks were brought in, along with a steaming system, and new pot stills were added to the distillation area.”

The corn is then fermented in stainless steel tanks for around five days. At this stage malted barley is added to the corn; approximately 15 percent barley to 85 percent corn. According to Hernández Vez, barley has a higher sugar content than corn and is needed to stimulate the fermentation.

Sierra Norte is distilled twice, first in stainless steel and then in copper alembic stills. Initially coming out of the still the liquid is clear. What French describes as ‘moonshine.’ At this stage the whiskey has a rich smell and taste of the corn itself.

The next step is aging in barrels. French is passionate about barrel aging and has an extensive range of barrel-aged mezcal, as well as whiskey. Both are aged in 230-liter French oak barrels, which he originally brought over from France to Oaxaca via the port of Veracruz. 

These barrels are charred using oak coals. Charring the inside of the barrel breaks down the structure of the oak, allowing easier penetration by the spirit. It also creates flavor. 

The barrels are laid to rest in concrete cellars. Although the cellars are meant to be cool, there is still considerable evaporation. In whiskey this evaporation during aging is referred to as the “angel’s share.” According to French, Oaxaca’s angels are particularly boozy. 

Sierra Norte whiskey is aged in these cellars for two years. The first barrels of whiskey were filled in 2014 and the Sierra Norte brand officially launched in 2016.

Typically, whiskey produced in Mexico is made from corn and follows United States regulations. This is partly due to much of the product being made to export. This is also true of Sierra Norte. The distiller began producing a mere 250 liters but now produce 8,000 liters and are enjoying global success, exporting Oaxacan whiskey to more than 12 countries. 

Charlie Prince, president of multi-country whiskey tasting club Drammers, says the organization’s international members have shown an interest in the new wave of Mexican corn whiskeys. “We actually bought three single barrels from [Sierra Norte]: a green corn whiskey, a rainbow corn whiskey and a yellow corn whiskey.”

Recently, French and his team have opened the doors of the distillery so visitors can learn about the process and have a full tour of the aging cellars, followed by a tasting of Sierra Norte’s whiskey, presented at different stages of aging. The team guides you through the nuanced flavors of the corn and influence of the barrel. To take a tour, contact Sierra Norte directly. Rambling Spirits can also incorporate a visit as part of a day of Oaxacan spirits.

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

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“Our goal is to make houses that are not just structures but adaptable homes where the architecture enables the empowerment of the inhabitants to break the cycle of poverty in Acapulco,” Manuel Cervantes told AR.

 

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A post shared by Manuel Cervantes Estudio (@manuelcervantesestudio)

Acapulco suffered widespread damage during Hurricane Otis, one of the worst storms to ever hit Mexico’s Pacific coast, in October 2023. The storm damaged 80% of the resort city’s hotels and 95% of its businesses, and killed at least 52 people.

Cervantes’s studio designed the new houses to be built using prefabricated Covintec panels — wire mesh frames filled with Styrofoam and coated with concrete. Each house is designed to operate without air conditioning, while timber screens and concrete latticework allow air and light through.  

As part of an initiative known as Kon-tigo, meaning “with you” in Spanish, the studio has completed 42 houses and is working to finish 78 more, with funding from various private donors through the non‑profit organizations Asociación Gilberto and Construyendo. The houses vary in size, from 376 to 807 square feet, and cost an average of US $18,000 each to build.

The structures withstood flooding during Acapulco’s tropical storm season in September and October, including Hurricane John. 

Cervantes aims to build long-term housing for those affected by Hurricane Otis, inspired by the Cartilla de la Vivienda (Housing Primer), published by the National College of Architects of Mexico and the Society of Mexican Architects in 1954. The original project created a construction manual to help those working in the informal labor market who did not have access to state-built housing. 

He also takes inspiration from a 1954 article in Arquitectura México written by the Mexican architect Enrique del Moral, in which del Moral stressed the importance of using open floor plans that facilitate cross ventilation and avoiding excessive use of glass and metal, according to AR. 

The impact of hurricanes on Acapulco

While still recovering from the effects of Otis, Acapulco suffered extreme flooding and mudslides during Hurricane John in September, which killed at least 29 people.  

In October, President Claudia Sheinbaum announced an 8-billion-peso (US $400 million) reconstruction package for Acapulco and Oaxaca in October in response to the destruction caused by John.   

The Mexican government also recently announced plans to construct one million new homes countrywide over the next six years with an investment of 600 billion pesos ($29.7 billion) under its Housing and Regularization Program. 

With reports from The Architectural Review, El Sol de Acapulco and El País

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The success of his first venture started a lifelong career as Plumail opened his 2nd restaurant, which he operated for 3 years in Sait-Paul-de-Vence, France and where he earned his 2nd Michelin Star. Following this success, Plumail opened his 3rd restaurant in Nice and ran it for 25 years, earning yet another Michelin Star. However, the accolades did not end when Plumail also scooped the prestigious Pastry award in 1978.  

Plumail’s star rose quickly from the opening of his first venture, gaining an exclusive A-lister clientele such as Duran Duran, Sir Elton John and King Frederik of Denmark, as well as many wealthy clients worldwide. While at his 3rd restaurant, he caught the eye of none other than the Prince Of Monaco. Impressed with his skills, the Royal Prince enticed him to be the chef at Monaco’s prestigious yacht club. At first, Plumail was reluctant — after all, he had a business and school to run. He only agreed when promised it would be only for 3 days, so he accepted the offer. Little did he know that those 3 days would become a week, which quickly became 5 years.  

After years of struggle and humble beginnings, Plumail says, “Working there was like another world. Unlimited money when before money was always limited. It was a dream job.”

Plumail sold his restaurant and began traveling and cooking all over the world, often for VIPs and celebrities. But he never lost his love for teaching. “Some of my students have become very successful,” he said with pride, “It makes me feel good.”

During one of these assignments in 1984, he ended up in Oaxaca, Mexico and was the first person to teach cooking classes for Alliance Française, a global network of schools promoting the French language through cultural and educational activities. In exchange, the school gave him and his wife, Betty, a one-week free holiday to Zihuatanejo. 

 

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Plumail and his wife were instantly captivated by the allure of Zihuatanejo. Their love for the area was so profound that they decided to make it their permanent home, moving there full-time three years ago. 

But, says Plumail, “I knew I could not just sit here and do nothing — I had to do something.”

That something was the purchase of a small 9-room boutique hotel in July of this year, high on the road to La Ropa beach, called Enseno de Fuga. From the outside, it looked deceivingly small, with a low wooden door which led inside. Once you step over the threshold, you will be greeted with a breathtaking view of Zihuatanejo Bay and the sheer spaciousness of the interior. 

This continued throughout the entire property, from the foyer to the dining area and pool below.  Each of the nine rooms boasting the same spectacular views was individually decorated and named with their door plaques, like La Sirena, La Ropa, and Neptuno. In addition, you can rent the whole villa, which includes a sitting area and kitchen facilities so you can cook for yourselves or enjoy the luxury of Plumail as your private chef.  

 

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Plans for the hotel, which Plumail says should be operational in about a month, include hosting special events for up to 20 people at a time, which Plumail and his wife will cater. “These would be special and with fine attention to every detail. For me, a customer is a friend, and spending a special, personal time with people is important to create an experience for our guests.”

His future plans also include cooking classes for four to eight people in an intimate setting. The class will consist of a trip to the market, during which Plumail will guide you in choosing the freshest ingredients. Then, you will return to the villa and cook together. “I want everyone to be working and active in the class and not just watching me cook,” he says of the small class size.

Starting in December 2024, Plumail is organizing and hosting high-end brunches, including champagne, with reservations only.  

And if Plumail life wasn’t busy enough, I soon learned of his second passion in life – running. “I love to eat,” he said. “But I don’t want to get fat. And so, I must exercise.”

That “exercise” is three Ironman competitions — two in France, one in Germany, and over twenty marathons worldwide. Last year, he climbed Pico de Orizaba, Mexico’s highest mountain, at 5,600 meters. Next year, Plumail plans to climb the Aconcagua in Argentina, which is 6,900 meters. He is in training now. 

Through it all, Plumail confessed his love of passing on his knowledge to others, often for free, such as a class at the nearby Universidad Tecnológica de la Costa Grande de Guerrero. “I love to teach and I know what it’s like to have little money to learn and study. And all the time, you are an apprentice.” Although Plumail hesitated to talk about his philanthropy and charity work teaching budding chefs, often for free, he says, “You have to give back.”

Writer Elizabeth Ashe divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo.

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Patterned after the Greek Acropolis Parthenon in Athens, the Greek capital, it was a majestic Hellenistic structure. Today, the Parthenon of Zihuatanejo is a ruined structure, much like that of its Greek counterpart. 

Over the years, I was lured by friends to visit it several times, sometimes able to enter without a guard in place but usually stopped by military personnel or a caretaker, who, for a “fee,” would allow us to look around. The late Dennis Johnson, a former expat and  Canadian publisher, accompanied me on one of my visits, and the following is a combination of his notes and my research. The history is dark.

A troubled past

Built during the 1980s by Mexico City’s wickedly excessive Chief of Police, Arturo Durazo Moreno (otherwise known as “El Negro” Durazo), the Parthenon is a testament to the corruption of the man. 

It began when Durazo’s boyhood friend, José López Portillo, became the president of Mexico in 1976. As one of Mexico’s most corrupt presidents, López Portillo turned to loyal Durazo for his security and appointed him to be his chief of Police, knowing that he had been under investigation in the US for almost a year for drug trafficking. 

During Durazo’s six-year tenure (from 1976 to 1982), he turned the police force into a racketeering organization and built his empire of corruption. He extorted money at every turn and lived a lavish lifestyle. He made a fortune from the bribes paid by the rank-and-file police officers under his command, and he used them as his construction labor force to build the Parthenon in Zihuatanejo, one of Guerrero’s most visited beaches. But that was not all. Canadian writer Jessica Devnani wrote, “he used it as his own personal playhouse with extravagant parties fueled with drugs, prostitutes and other sinful activities”. 

Although Durazo was lauded for his work in lowering the crime rate in Mexico City and was even honored with a prestigious award in the Soviet Union for doing so, his methods were discovered to be beyond brutal when the tortured bodies of 12 Colombians suspected of bank robbery turned up in a river. An investigation into his practices began, ultimately revealing his elaborate pyramid scheme of bribes and payoffs.

Durazo’s fortune changed once again, this time not for the better, with the arrival of a new presidential administration, Miguel de la Madrid, whose campaign theme was “Moral Renewal.” 

Durazo fled the country, and an international search ensued. After charging him in absentia with racketeering, Mexican and U.S. authorities tracked him down in Costa Rica in 1984 and brought him back to trial in Mexico. Durazo was charged with a long range of offenses, from corruption to extortion, tax evasion, drug kickbacks and possession of illegal weapons. He was given 25 years in prison; though he was released after less than eight, in 1992 due to ill health and good conduct. He lived out his final days in Acapulco, redeeming himself a bit by working with recovering alcoholics. He died of cancer in 2000.

Before his death, Durazo’s chief bodyguard, José González, wrote a runaway bestseller in 1980 about his evil boss, entitled “Lo Negro Del Durazo”. A movie quickly followed. Never allowing himself to be out-maneuvered, Durazo won a defamation lawsuit against his former aide from behind prison bars.

A return to former glory

 

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The restoration of Mexico’s version has been completely revitalized into a breathtakingly beautiful monument, thanks to the former administration of mayor Jorge Sánchez Alec and the city of Zihuatanejo.

Today, the Parthenon reflects its appearance in all its former glory. The once-chained tigers and the disco used for wild parties are gone, and the swimming pool has been removed. The gates have been refurbished, weeds have been pulled, and gardens have been tended to. Statues and murals have been replaced and repainted, and rooms that were once bedrooms complete with hanging beds will now be used as special events rooms, functions and exhibitions, five halls in all, according to Tourism Director Jesús Gallegos Galván. 

There will be concerts and other cultural events but, says Gallegos, no private events such as weddings and no alcohol will be served. General seating will hold up to 500 people. There will be a small fee — 100 pesos for outside tourists, 50 pesos for locals and free for handicapped and older adults. Students will be charged just 20 pesos. 

There will also be a small café where you can purchase coffee and other beverages and relax. At the same time, you admire a view that is as spectacular as the bay of Zihuatanejo itself.

The inauguration, which happened recently on November 6 to much fanfare, was presided over by Guerrero state Governor Evelyn Salgado Pineda and Zihuantanejo’s current mayor, Lizette Tapia. Following this, the first major cultural event of the year, known as Tropifashion, was held on November 29 of this year and is sure to set the stage for an exciting year ahead for other cultural events.

The writer divides her time between Canada and Zihuatanejo.

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However, on Monday a new caravan of roughly 2,000 migrants left the southern border city of Tapachula, intent on reaching the United States.

Migrants rights activist Luis García Villagrán said the breaking-up of the two caravans appeared to be part of an agreement between the president of Mexico and the president-elect of the United States, the Associated Press reported.

The action came shortly after President Claudia Sheinbaum and President-elect Trump discussed Trump’s threat to impose 25% tariffs on all Mexican products entering the United States unless Mexico does more to stem the flow of migrants to the U.S. border.

While Trump insisted Sheinbaum had agreed to stop all unauthorized migration to the United States, Mexico’s president disputed that claim, saying “Mexico’s position is not to close borders but to build bridges between governments and between peoples.”

Instead, Sheinbaum wrote on her social media accounts, “migrants and caravans are taken care of before they reach the border.”

Blocking the caravans

Undocumented migrants have been detected in record numbers so far this year. Mexican authorities reported finding 925,085 migrants from January through August of this year, an increase of 132% over the 398,991 during the first eight months of 2023.

The AP reported that immigration authorities and the Army had dismantled the two caravans — comprising approximately 4,000 migrants — by bussing them to cities across central and southern Mexico while also offering 20-day transit documents.

Rights activists are warning migrants not to be deceived by the INM offer, reported the publication Infobae.

The National Immigration Institute (INM) responded by issuing a statement on Saturday saying the migrants voluntarily accepted bus rides “to various areas where there is medical assistance and where their migratory status will be reviewed,” and insisting the migrants “no longer wanted to face the risks along their way.”

García Villagrán, the migrant rights activist, has accused the INM of lying to migrants by promising them shelter and transit documents. Instead, García told Infobae, they are abandoning them in cities outside of migrant routes with the intention of eventually deporting them.

The warning has reached the new caravan preparing to leave Chiapas this week.

One migrant in Tapachula told Sin Embargo that they don’t trust the authorities. “We have seen [INM] agents lie about helping us,” he said. “Some have been detained for three days then released without any documents.”

A Guatemalan migrant told the newspaper La Jornada that he would prefer the transit documents to be validated as they advance north. “The only thing we ask is that they let us continue on our way,” he said.

With reports from Sin Embargo, The Associated Press, La Jornada, Infobae and El Piñero

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If you’re in Mexico’s artistic and gastronomic capital this Christmas, here are some of the incredible activities you can enjoy.

December Pilgrimages

In Oaxaca, the Christmas season begins with the annual pilgrimage to Santa Catarina Juquila and the shrine of Our Lady of Juquila, known for healing miracles. Devout pilgrims arrive from a multi-day journey by foot from nearby villages while others travel long distances by bus from other states to celebrate her day of worship.

Date: Dec. 8
Location: Santa Catarina Juquila

Our Lady of Guadalupe is Mexico’s most celebrated saint, with activities in her honor taking place between Dec. 1 and 9. Oaxaca has a particular tradition. Families visit the Templo de la Virgen de Guadalupe, north edge of El Llano Park. Boys dress up as Juan Diego, who first saw the Virgin, while girls wear traditional blouses and skirts with their hair braided with ribbons. 

When: Dec. 12
Where: Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe

Our Lady of Solitude (Nuestra Señora de la Soledad) is the patron saint of Oaxaca and is honored with one of the state’s biggest December celebrations. Festivities start in front of the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad and develop into one of the longest parades in Oaxaca. Arrive early to explore the food stalls nearby before the celebrations begin.

When: Dec. 18
Where: Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Soledad

Inauguration: “En memoria a” 

Step into the evocative world of Alberto Cruz with “En memoria a…”, an exhibition that captures the essence of childhood innocence through the powerful simplicity of graphic imagery. A celebrated Oaxacan printmaker, Cruz’s work has traveled far and wide, gracing galleries across Mexico and internationally in the United States, United Kingdom, and Japan. Honored with the prestigious Takeda Award in 2016, his art resonates with universal themes and timeless charm. Don’t miss the inaugural event at El Alacrán, a vibrant art space within the collective founded by the legendary Francisco Toledo in Oaxaca. Join us for an unforgettable artistic experience!

Where: El Alacran, Murguia 302

When: 6 December  6pm

Amanda Miguel at Auditorio Guelaguetza

Rising dramatically on the hillside above Oaxaca’s Historic Center, the Auditorio Guelaguetza is more than just a venue — it’s a cultural icon. Originally built to showcase the vibrant traditions of Oaxaca’s annual Guelaguetza celebrations, the open-air amphitheater recently celebrated its 50th anniversary on November 27. This month, the stage comes alive with an exciting lineup of concerts, including a standout performance by the legendary singer-songwriter Amanda Miguel. Don’t miss the chance to experience world-class music in one of Oaxaca’s most stunning settings!

Date: Dec. 14 at 9 p.m.
Location: Auditorio Guelaguetza
Cost: Tickets start at 1000 pesos. Available for purchase online.

December at Cantinita Bar

 

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Get ready for a December full of beats, vibes, and festive cheer at Cantinita, the go-to spot in downtown Oaxaca for unforgettable nights! The month kicks off with New York’s Mr. Big Happy, spinning vinyl magic on December 7. Then, on December 18, brace yourself for a takeover by Mexico City’s Brujas, recently crowned No. 45 in North America’s @50bestbars.

Finally, mark your calendar for December 20, when the Cantinita crew and guest musicians come together for a lively Christmas Posada — the perfect way to celebrate the season with music and merriment. Don’t miss it!

Date: Dec. 7,18 and 20
Location: Cantinita Bar, below Hotel Sin Nombre

Posadas in Oaxaca

Posadas, which translates to “inns,” are processions and celebrations held during the evenings leading up to Christmas Eve. They are deeply rooted Christmas tradition celebrated in Oaxaca and other parts of Mexico. A posada is a re-enactment of Joseph and Mary’s journey: pilgrims arrive, request shelter and are refused — all in song. After several exchanges, the doors are opened. Inside, the host has prepared gifts of sweets and fruits and as a finale they break a piñata.

In Oaxaca, a posada is also the term for when families and friends also gather for festive Christmas parties — so get down and enjoy some traditional winter snacks and delicious ponche if you’re in town. 

Date: Dec. 16-24
Location: Various; a good option is 6:30 p.m. at the church of San Matías Jalatlaco

Radish night

Noche de Los Rábanos, or Radish Night, is one of Oaxaca’s most popular December events. It dates back to the 1800s when vendors carved radishes to draw attention to their stands at the Christmas market. In 1897 it was declared an official competition. Now huge radishes are grown especially to carve into fantastic sculptural scenes such as the Last Supper. The event has become very popular, attracting over 100 contestants and thousands of visitors. 

Date: December 23
Location: Zócalo, Oaxaca de Juárez

Las calendas del Niño Dios

For Christmas Eve, known as La Noche Buena, churches in central Oaxaca organize parades known as calendas. Each church is represented by different colored lanterns.

At the heart of the calenda is the baby Jesus, led by his madrinas (godmothers) to the main square in front of the Cathedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. They circle the zocalo four times and then return to their host churches. Then Jesus is placed in a manger in time for the beginning of midnight mass.

The calenda typically starts around 8 p.m. at each church, reaching the cathedral by around 10 p.m.

Date: Dec. 24 at 10 p.m.
Location: Zócalo, Oaxaca de Juárez

Festive light show and markets

During the lead up to Christmas, Oaxaca city puts on a festive light show in front of Santo Domingo Church. This is a fun way to start an evening downtown, watching the lights, with a a hot elote and a warming drink.

During the day there are seasonal markets. One of the largest is located on Alcala, just north of Santo Domingo Church. These tent-covered stalls offer artisan crafts and specialty Christmas foods.

Date: Month of December
Location: Plaza de Santo Domingo

Winter wonderland

About an hour from Oaxaca city, the Pueblo Mágico of Mitla hosts festive celebrations beginning around the middle of December, lasting until the first week of January. The beautifully decorated town square has a small ice skating rink and a stage with nightly performances by local bands. It is a perfect festive trip for the whole family. 

If you don’t want to go all the way to Mitla, Parque El Llano in Oaxaca city also has an ice rink, food vendors and nightly performances. 

Date: Month of December
Location: Mitla and Parque el Llano in Oaxaca de Juárez

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

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