An inaugural ceremony on Satuday in Bahía de Banderas led by President Claudia Sheinbaum and members of her cabinet celebrated the opening of the final stretch of the highway — a 33-kilometer segment along the Pacific Coast that extends from Bucerías, Nayarit, to Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco.

The new roadway also provides a direct link between Tepic, the Nayarit state capital, and the beach resorts in and around Puerto Vallarta, reducing travel time from three hours to 90 minutes.

The strategic infrastructure project has been delayed multiple times over its 13-year duration due to budget constraints — outlasting three of Mexico’s presidents and even more governors of Jalisco and Nayarit.

It was set to open in 2014, but by the time President Enrique Peña Nieto left office in 2018, only two sections of the highway project had opened. Progress on its construction continued on a slow drip in the following years, with sections opening one at a time. 

The road loops northwest from the state capital around the Sierra de Vallejo Biosphere Reserve in southern Nayarit, then curves southwest toward the Pacific Ocean, traversing along the coast for nearly 100 kilometers.

The new toll road will reduce travel time between Guadalajara and the coast in half, from five hours to two and a half hours, according to Infrastructure, Communications and Transportation (SICT) Minister Jesús Antonio Esteva. It also benefits travelers farther north along the Jalisco coast, giving them a more direct route to Puerto Vallarta and Guadalajara.

Sheinbaum also announced on Saturday other infrastructure and social projects benefitting the region, including scholarships for children in Nayarit and Jalisco and funding to renovate schools in both states. 

Inauguración de la autopista Jala-Puerto Vallarta. Bahía de Banderas, Nayarit https://t.co/YTOCcYI9ZQ

— Claudia Sheinbaum Pardo (@Claudiashein) December 28, 2024

Sheinbaum also took advantage of the highway’s inauguration to announce new funding for upcoming infrastructure and projects to benefit citizens in the two states.

Among the new public works to be constructed are a bridge between Bahía de Banderas and Puerto Vallarta, a freshwater aqueduct in southern Nayarit and several scenic highways — known as caminos artesanales — in the Indigenous Wixárica region of northwestern Jalisco. 

The caminos artesanales project seeks to connect Indigenous communities in rural areas and will use local materials. It will also provide temporary jobs to residents.

“We are demonstrating that nobody will be left behind in Mexico,” Sheinbaum said Saturday.

Welfare Minister Ariadna Montiel said that the new highway and the projects Sheinbaum announced demonstrate that the administration is determined to improve the quality of life of Mexico’s marginalized citizens.

The final stretch of highway, which cost 2 billion pesos (US $98 million), features eight bridges — with the longest being 300 meters in length — three overpasses, a trunk road to the Puerto Vallarta airport and one toll booth, according to SICT Minister Esteva.

The entire toll highway has six toll booths and costs as much as 1,300 pesos (US $63) to travel its entire length, according to the newspaper Informador.

With reports from Debate and NTV+

The post Por fin! After 13 years, GDL-Puerto Vallarta highway project finishes appeared first on Mexico News Daily

The Hotel scene

When UNICO 20°87° Hotel Riviera Maya opened in 2017 it turned the all-inclusive, adults-only resort model on its head. It was one of the first resorts to open in Mexico under the luxury all-inclusive concept. Now the brand is making its debut on Mexico’s Pacific coast. In 2025, sister resort UNICO 20°105° Puerto Vallarta will make its debut in Nuevo Nayarit. With Bay of Banderas and Sierra Madre views, this Pacific adults-only retreat promises to deliver the same service and contemporary design that made its Riviera Maya counterpart a success. Expect a rooftop pool touted as the best in town, gourmet restaurants and curated experiences that dive into Vallarta’s culture.

Over in Riviera Nayarit, Milaroca is preparing to open in April as an eco-friendly five-star resort. Spread across 105 acres of beachfront and jungle, the property promises farm-to-table dining, immersive activities like cooking classes and archaeological tours and sustainable design elements like low-density construction, natural cross-ventilation and energy-efficient lighting. 

April 2025 will also bring the debut of Breathless Puerto Vallarta. This adults-only all-inclusive resort will have 450 rooms and suites, seven restaurants, five bars and four pools and will be 10 minutes from the airport.

Meanwhile, Rosewood Mandarina, part of the same development complex that includes the One&Only Mandarina, will be a playground of panoramic views, luxury villas and three extremely photogenic pools. Opening in April, it’s perched between the Sierra del Vallejo mountains and a mile-long stretch of beach. 

For those drawn to Sayulita’s bohemian vibes, the debut of Zen Sayulita by Melia will bring a new style of resort to this surfer town. Think 125 rooms, villas, a rooftop bar, a beach club and a spa. Alongside Zel Sayulita, Meliá Hotels International will also open a ME by Melia in Sayulita. Located along the beach, the new resort will boast 125 rooms and villas, as well as three restaurants, a spa, pool, gym and rooftop bar with a separate pool. 

Don’t sleep on Tryst Puerto Vallarta, which quietly opened in the Fall of 2024. Already making waves for its inclusive vibe, stylish design and beachfront access, it’s a newbie to consider when visiting town.

Getting there just got easier

Puerto Vallarta’s infamously inundated international airport welcomes more than six million passengers each year and has been working on expanding in order to accommodate the increasing number of annual visitors. Its long-anticipated Terminal 2 is officially slated to open in 2025. The LEED-certified terminal will, according to the Puerto Vallarta Tourism Board, be the first Net-Zero-certified terminal in Latin America, and the two-story building will increase airport capacity by 125 percent.

Tepic’s airport, now rebranded the Riviera Nayarit International Airport, has received a significant US $250 million upgrade. The expansion includes a new terminal, more than 33,000 square feet of retail and dining, a runway extension and a new car rental center. The airport is expected to receive international flights beginning in 2025.

The coming year is also set  to bring expanded air connectivity that will make hopping over a breeze. Sunwing Airlines has launched a weekly service from Bagotville, Quebec, catering to the snowbirds escaping Canada’s icy grip. Alaska Airlines isn’t playing around either, with new weekly flights from Sacramento, Kansas City and St. Louis starting in January, plus four weekly flights from New York. Not to be outdone, Southwest Airlines joins the mix with weekly Sacramento flights kicking off in March.

And let’s not forget the game-changing highway that now connects Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara. A quick jaunt through Jalisco’s tequila-soaked countryside allows travelers to pair PV beaches with Guadalajara’s historic streets. 

The events

Whale watching – December to March

From December to March, the Bay of Banderas becomes a nursery for humpback whales. Tour operators like Ecotours Vallarta and Vallarta Adventures lead excursions that feature hydrophones so you can hear the whales’ melodic songs — a true bucket-list experience. 

Mexico Open at Vidanta – Feb. 17-23

Golf enthusiasts, this one’s for you. The PGA Tour returns to Vidanta Vallarta. Beyond the greens, the Par Tee Deck offers food, VIP lounges, and merchandise for fans.

Puerto Vallarta Marathon – April 6

Runners return for the revamped Puerto Vallarta Marathon, with distances ranging from a 5K to a Boston Marathon-qualifying 42K.

Vallarta Pride – May 17-25

Puerto Vallarta has long been a top LGBTQ+ destination, and 2025’s Vallarta Pride promises to outdo itself. The theme, “Revolution: The Future Has No Gender,” underscores the event’s commitment to inclusivity. Expect parades, beach parties, art exhibitions and more. 

Why Puerto Vallarta in 2025

For those who think they’ve “been there, done that,” 2025 proves there are always new reasons to come back to Puerto Vallarta, from new hotels to the spectacles of nature and parties and events year-round.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com

The post What’s new in the Bay of Banderas in 2025 appeared first on Mexico News Daily

The zoo’s new director, José María “Chema” Casanova Rodríguez, confirmed Thursday that when he assumed his role on Nov. 7, the giraffe was already absent. Casanova said determining the animal’s fate falls to his predecessor, Diego García Heredia, who oversaw the zoo during the giraffe’s last recorded presence.

La jirafa que anda perdida del Zoo de Culiacán, anda turisteando por la ciudad pic.twitter.com/pSGQflKWe3

— Culiacán, Sinaloa (@EsCuliacan) December 27, 2024

“When I arrived, the [second] giraffe was no longer there,” explained Casanova, who was a Morena city council member in Culiacán, from 2021 to earlier this year. “The [outgoing director] is the one who has to give that answer. As in all zoos … there is a possibility that there was an exchange between zoos, or that there was a death — if so, there should be a necropsy [an animal autopsy].”

Casanova said he has until Jan. 13 to complete a report that includes information about the zoo’s animal inventory and records of animal deliveries and outgoing shipments.

However, he indicated he will present his report a week early, on Jan. 6, so the fate of the giraffe can be clarified.

“I need to finish the handover to determine exactly what happened, not only to the giraffe, but perhaps to all the animals that are or were in the zoo,” he added. 

Input from the former director is expected, and Culiacán Mayor Juan de Dios Gámez Mendívil was reportedly looking to meet with zoo staff on Friday to discuss the situation.

As of Friday morning, there were no reports of theft or disappearance of the giraffe, according to Leoncio Pedro García Alatorre, a public security official in Sinaloa. However, he did say that about three and a half months ago, a citizen called an emergency line to report that people were trying to steal a tiger from the zoo (a complaint that was later determined to be false).

Since then, García said, patrols have been maintained near the zoo, with no anomalies reported.

The news of the missing giraffe quickly gained traction online, with local residents creating memes that imagined the over four-meter (13-foot) animal in iconic nearby locations, such as the Tomateros baseball stadium and the Forum Culiacán shopping mall.

Some social media users invoked the city’s challenges, with one post reading, “Even the giraffe left Culiacán because of the violence,” according to Quiero TV.

This is the second Mexico giraffe story to garner headlines in 2024. At the beginning of the year, a giraffe living in deplorable conditions in a city park in Ciudad Juárez, Chihuahua, became a cause célèbre before being moved to a spacious safari park in the state of Puebla.

With reports from Potosí Noticias, El Sol de Sinaloa, Contra Réplica, Los Noticieristas and Quiero TV

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Tucked just south of Puerto Vallarta, this off-the-beaten-path, ruggedly beautiful stretch of forest-meets-coast is a haven for travelers seeking pristine sands, dense jungles and secluded villages. Here’s everything you need to know to unlock the secrets of Cabo Corrientes— your new favorite hideaway.

Getting to Cabo Corrientes: the road less traveled

Part of Cabo Corrientes’ magic lies in its remoteness. The region is accessible by boat or via a scenic jungle drive. Most adventurers start at Boca de Tomatlán, a buzzy fishing village just 30 minutes south of Puerto Vallarta. From there, you can hop on a a small motorboat known as a panga to reach the secluded beaches that dot the coastline.

For those who prefer wheels over waves, the rugged roads leading to Cabo Corrientes are all part of the adventure. The journey winds through tropical landscapes and sleepy hamlets, dodging potholes and lumbering along behind the occasional semi-truck making its way towards the larger southern cities.

Pristine beaches: Paradise off the grid

When it comes to beaches, Cabo Corrientes feels like one of the final secrets left around Puerto Vallarta. Here are three shorelines that deserve a spot on your itinerary.

Playa Mayto: Stretching for miles, Mayto is the kind of beach where your footprints might be the only ones in the sand. With its golden shorelines and gentle waves, this is the perfect place for those who like their beach days served with solitude.

Playa Tehuamixtle (Tehua): Nestled in a picturesque cove, Tehua’s calm waters are made for snorkeling. The real star here, though, is the seafood. Local restaurants serve up ocean-fresh ceviche and oysters that are often said to be the best in Mexico.

Playa Corrales: Only reachable by boat or an ambitious overland followed by a hike, this coastal community rewards the adventurous traveler with jaw-dropping views and blissful isolation. All you need is a pocket full of pesos for some fresh seafood and beer on the sand. Restaurante Bar El Fury is one of the only options, but worth it for fresh oysters and epic sunset views.

Village charm: Mexico at its purest

Cabo Corrientes isn’t just about nature; its villages are a snapshot of Mexico before the tourism boom.

El Tuito: Perched in the mountains, El Tuito is a colonial town with cobblestone streets, adobe houses, and a laid-back vibe. Visit the town square for handmade cheeses and the region’s famous raicilla, a smoky agave spirit that rivals tequila. It’s the last “major” town before you set off into the more remote Costalegre, so be sure to fill up with gas and snacks if you’re continuing the drive south.

Chimo: If “off the grid” is your travel mantra, Chimo is your destination. This tiny fishing village feels untouched by time, offering a glimpse into a simpler way of life. The road into Chimo snakes up into the mountains before emptying out at the small seaside village. Plan for lunch at Restaurant Socios and spend the night at the hilltop Cabanas Linda Vista. 

Where to stay: Eco-luxury in the wild

The charm of Cabo Corrientes lies in its balance of rustic beauty and understated luxury. Accommodations here prioritize sustainability without skimping on comfort.

Villa Lala: This adults-only hotel in Boca de Tomatlán offers just a handful of elegant suites with private terraces, stunning bay views and an infinity pool. Guests of Villa Lala have a front-row access to the dock where pangas zip in and out of the bay shuttling travelers to the more remote and secluded beaches and villages. Ask about the rooms that have their own plunge pools: they’re worth the splurge.

Hotel Mayto: Overlooking a tranquil stretch of beach, this small resort is one of the best — and only — hotels in Mayto. Hotel Mayto is a collection of rooms plus a small campground makes up the property, including a pool and a beachfront restaurant. 

Verana: Perched above Yelapa’s jungle-covered hills, Verana is an eco-chic retreat that blends indoor and outdoor living. The boutique hotel has open-air villas and ocean views, plus spa treatments, infinity pools and trails to nearby waterfalls.

Cabañas El Cielto: Overlooking the beaches south of Tehuamixtle, Cabañas El Cielto has cozy, astrologically-themed rooms overlooking ocean views. Guests enjoy fresh seafood from its hilltop restaurant, quiet sunsets and the peaceful rhythm of the waves.

Why Cabo Corrientes should be on your radar

In a world obsessed with curated Instagram moments, Cabo Corrientes stands out by staying refreshingly real. There are no sprawling resorts, no neon-lit nightclubs— just miles of natural beauty and a culture that feels untouched by time.

Here, your days are spent exploring deserted beaches, wandering cobblestone streets and savoring palm-sized oysters. Your nights? They’re all about starlit skies and the soothing sound of waves.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com

The post Exploring the secrets of Cabo Corrientes appeared first on Mexico News Daily

President Claudia Sheinbaum told reporters during her Thursday morning press conference that García Harfuch will remain in the northwestern state for an undefined period of time.

Sheinbaum also said she will meet with the security minister and Sinaloa Governor Rubén Rocha in the southern resort town of Mazatlán on Sunday.

Early Wednesday, Security Ministry (SSPC) investigator Halexy Guadalupe Velderrain Con was ambushed and killed in Culiacán.

While the SSPC did not provide additional details at the time, at least one other agent was reported wounded, according to the newspaper El País, which added that witnesses told local media they had seen two men on a motorcycle approach the SSPC vehicle and open fire.

García Harfuch flew to Sinaloa later that day, and Sheinbaum said he would personally take charge of security operations in the state. This contrasts with his Dec. 5 visit to Culiacán, which state Security Minister Gerardo Mérida Sánchez described as a routine fact-finding mission.

On Thursday, García Harfuch met with the Sinaloa governor. After the meeting, Rocha confirmed that the agent’s death was the result of a “targeted attack.”

No end in sight to internecine drug war

Sinaloa — and especially Culiacán — has been the scene of near-daily violence since rival factions of the Sinaloa Cartel took up weapons against each other in early September.

Since then, more than 600 people have been murdered and over 900 people have been kidnapped or “disappeared,” according to the magazine Proceso.

The state’s economy has been paralyzed as businesses have closed down or dramatically shortened hours of operation, prompting Governor Rocha to start distributing cash to mitigate the impact of the drug war.

State business leaders say the violence has cost the state economy at least 18 billion pesos.

Even as Rocha claims the violence is being blown out of proportion, the reality of the situation indicates otherwise, according to Proceso.

Last Saturday, a mid-day shootout in which more than 300 rounds were fired off occurred near a baseball park in Culiacán where Little League games were taking place. For five minutes, players and fans lay on the field waiting for the gunfire to stop.

The next morning, another five-minute-long firefight took place in a residential area of the state capital. One property was shot up as was a recently inaugurated fire station, damaging several fire trucks.

Some online companies have refused to make deliveries in the state due to concerns about the safety of highway travel. There have been shootouts along the Mazatlán-Culiacán highway — where bodies have also been regularly dumped along the road, Proceso reports.

Concern about the public’s psychological health has prompted the Autonomous University of Sinaloa to offer virtual counseling to residents who might be suffering from PTSD, anxiety disorders and shock.

Even the army is not safe from the violence. On Wednesday, the same day the SSPC agent was killed, soldiers were ambushed in the village of Elota.

Though state authorities insisted no soldiers were wounded in the attack, some publications reported that one soldier was killed and at least four others were wounded.

The attack resulted in a rapid reaction from the armed forces which summoned the National Guard. Witnesses reported seeing military helicopters transport several wounded soldiers out of the area, according to the online news site Infobae.

With reports from El País, La Jornada, El Financiero, Proceso, Infobae, Los Noticieristas and Expansión Política

The post Security Minister García Harfuch will remain in Sinaloa after federal agent’s assassination appeared first on Mexico News Daily

Rocha and state Finance Minister Ricardo Velarde spent Saturday distributing checks to 511 recipients in four municipalities and the cities of Navolato and Culiacán, the state capital, as per the local newspaper Luz Noticias. 

According to the regional newspaper Debate, 10,000 pesos (US $500) was granted to businesses employing fewer than 10 employees, while businesses employing more than 10 people were granted 20,000 pesos (US $1,000).

The money comes from the Sinaloa Late Fuerte Program (Sinaloa Beats Strong Program) which benefits from a 65-million-peso (US $3.2 million) emergency fund established in early December to address the sputtering economy. The newspaper El Economista reported that 42.5 million pesos (US $2.1 million) of the emergency fund will be distributed to local businesses affected by the recent wave of violence.

This was the second weekend in a row that Rocha distributed funds from the Late Fuerte program.

Since early September, Sinaloa — particularly Culiacán — has been wracked by violence between warring factions of the Sinaloa Cartel. The fighting began two months after a top drug lord was allegedly kidnapped in Sinaloa by a rival drug lord and flown to the United States where both men were arrested.

En el Informe Diario sobre la incidencia delictiva en #Sinaloa tras el inicio de la ola de violencia, este lunes reporta que durante la semana anterior, con 42 homicidios registrados, se estabilizó en un promedio de seis asesinatos diarios
https://t.co/Su0B1oiuVD pic.twitter.com/9Bso5WhKZw

— Noroeste (@noroestemx) December 16, 2024

President Claudia Sheinbaum last week blamed the U.S. government for the ensuing violence, though U.S. authorities have insisted they were not involved in the kidnapping.  

According to a report published by the Sinaloa Attorney General’s Office, more than 500 murders have been reported through Nov. 30. At least 20 additional killings have been reported since then, 72 in all through the first two weeks of December. Included among the victims are at least 14 soldiers, the news site Infobae reported. 

Additionally, more than 500 people have been disappeared since the fighting broke out on Sept. 9.

According to the Confederation of National Chambers of Trade, Service and Tourism (Concanaco Servytur), the ensuing violence has cost the state economy roughly 18 billion pesos (US $893 million) during the past three-and-a-half months.

Many local Sinaloa businesses have shuttered their doors or reduced their hours of operation dramatically. Concanaco Servytur speculates that job losses in Culiacán have reached 10% since the violence began. 

With reports from Luz Noticias, Excelsior, El CEO, El Sol de Sinaloa, El Economista and Debate

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Known for its laid-back vibe, lively music scene, and spectacular beaches, Melaque is a must-visit for anyone seeking a weekend a bit more removed from the typical tourist trail. Make no mistake, Melaque has its fair share of tourists — mostly travelers from Western Canada who enjoy seasonal direct flights into Manzanillo airport — but the relatively small size of the towns and the lack of mainstream access have ensured that Melaque retains a sleepier charm than its sibling beach towns to the north.

With the right mix of adventure and toes-in-the-sand margaritas, here’s how to spend a perfect weekend in this little slice of paradise.

Friday: Welcome to Melaque

Your first stop in Melaque will be to check into Hotel Aurelia, a terracotta-colored boutique hotel with a pool overlooking the stunning beach. The hotel is within walking distance of the town’s main attractions (although, if we’re being honest, everything in Melaque is within walking distance). Drop your bags, slip not flip-flops, and get ready to explore.

Kick things off with a leisurely walk along Melaque’s Malecon, where ocean views and the gentle breeze will get you in that laid-back beach mood. Note that there’s very little shade coverage along the malecon, so you may want to save your walk for closer to sunset if you’re sensitive to the strong southern sun. Along the way, you’ll pass local vendors selling trinkets and tropical snacks.

When hunger strikes, head to Bugambilias, a cozy beachfront eatery serving fresh seafood and snacks. The guacamole and coconut shrimp are worth every bite. After dinner, ease into the weekend with live music at Kraken. Located along the main road, this lively bar has become a local favorite for strong drinks, a social atmosphere, and great live music.

Saturday: Beaches, bargains, and bliss

Start your morning with breakfast at Ava’s, a beloved spot where the coffee is strong and the chilaquiles are legendary. Fuel up — you’ve got a big day of beach-hopping ahead.

First stop: Playa de Melaque, the town’s main beach. Its calm waters and wide stretch of sand are ideal for a morning swim or lounging under a palapa with a good book. If you’re feeling adventurous, hop in a taxi to nearby beaches like Playa Cuastecomates or Boca de Iguanas, where the jungle meets the sea in a palm-fringed fashion usually reserved for postcards. 

For lunch, head to Rustik, a cozy little street-front pizza/pasta restaurant and wine bar. The wood-fired pizzas here are crispy and fresh — a great treat for this tiny coastal Mexican town.

In the afternoon, make your way to the neighboring town of Barra de Navidad, just a 10-minute drive away. This larger, bustling town offers more shopping opportunities, from artisanal crafts to colorful beachwear. Wander the quaint streets or head out onto the Malecon that divides the sea from the lagoon and watch the stunning, smudgy, pastel-colored sunset.

Return to Melaque for dinner at The Wok Place, a fusion restaurant offering a creative twist on Asian cuisine. The Pad Thai is not to be missed. If you’re up for live music, check out Albatross, another beachfront bar that has live music most nights of the week.

Sunday: Markets, more beaches, and a farewell feast

Sundays in Melaque start with a leisurely breakfast. Try La Taza Negra Cafeteria today or pick up some fresh pastries at a local bakery. 

If your visit overlaps with Wednesday, don’t miss the weekly flea market, where you can shop for everything from handmade textiles to fresh produce. Even if it’s not market day, Melaque has plenty of shops offering everything from the typical tourist knick-knacks to hand-painted ceramics and beach-ready hammocks.

Spend your final afternoon visiting two locally known beaches: Tenacatita and Arroyo Seco. They’re a bit of a drive from Melaque (roughly 45 minutes to an hour), but what you are venturing for is unspoiled beauty. Tenacatita has fantastic snorkeling and a beachfront positively humming with casual pop-up restaurants. Arroyo Seco is far less developed but is hauntingly beautiful and one of the best surf spots along the Costalegre. 

For a farewell meal, dine on the beach at Rojo Restaurant. Located right on Playa Grande in Arroyo Seco, this open-air restaurant is built entirely out of bamboo and is a stunning spot to enjoy a cold margarita, a sunset, and a final look at the southern stretch of the Costalegre.

Pro tips for your Melaque adventure

• Bring cash: While Melaque has ATMs, they tend to run out of money, especially on weekends. The ATM at the military base offers the lowest surcharge, so plan accordingly.
• Embrace the vibe: Melaque is about taking it slow, so ditch the rigid itinerary and let the town’s relaxed pace guide your plans.
• Beach essentials: Sunscreen, a hat, and a good book are your best friends. The Pacific sun can be intense even in winter, so stay protected.

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com

The post A perfect weekend in Melaque appeared first on Mexico News Daily

The night before, there had been a car chase that ended in the murder of a man in the city where I live; afterward, more than 2,000 bullet casings were found in the area. It had been two months since an internal conflict between drug traffickers in the state of Sinaloa turned into a war that today has the state’s residents caught in the crossfire.

Mayos and Chapitos

In late September I traveled to Culiacán, the capital of Sinaloa, to finish the final cut of my first movie, which follows Mexico’s first amputee soccer team, the Zorros of Sinaloa. At the time, the conflict in Culiacán between the rival Chapitos and Mayos factions of the Sinaloa Cartel had been going on for a month: shootouts, kidnappings, dead bodies, stolen cars and the absence of police and transit officials, who just seven days before my arrival had been disarmed by the Mexican Army for a “special review” of municipal police weapons, according to the state Ministry of Public Security. Culichis, as residents of Culiacán are known, were alone with the narcos.

During my six-day stay in the city, Culiacán was full of punteros — motorcyclists circling the city to monitor the military’s presence — and sicarios, assassins working for the narco-traffickers or, as the government calls them, “armed civilians.” Without police or transit officials, the city was in anarchy.

During the day, the presence of military and National Guard troops was impressive, with caravans of heavily armed soldiers in the streets. But at night sicarios patrolled, just as heavily armed as the soldiers. City residents sheltered in their homes in a self-imposed curfew: online classes, closed businesses, a collapsed economy and as if that wasn’t enough, the government sent more troops.

Rubén Rocha Moya, governor of Sinaloa, minimized the conflict and for weeks insisted that Culiacán was calm. By late October, 3,300 soldiers and National Guardsmen had been sent to the state but it wasn’t enough to contain the violence unleashed after the July capture of Ismael “El Mayo” Zambada, the legendary leader of the Sinaloa Cartel. Five years ago, his colleague and friend Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán was sentenced to life in prison in the U.S. Today, the followers and children of both leaders, “los Mayos” and “los Chapitos,” fight to control the area and what they call “the company.”

A new lockdown

My stay was discreet: I devoted myself to my work, going out only when necessary. I stayed close to the studio where I worked and slept. I shared my live location and constantly skimmed local news, joining the collective fear of the population: ever-attentive to my surroundings, suspicious of everyone.

During my stay I was able to see some friends; brief visits in which the topic of discussion was the “narco-pandemic,” as some called the mandatory lockdown period, in reference to the COVID-19 lockdown.

On Friday, Sept. 27, in the early hours of the morning, a small plane flew over the city dropping flyers from the Mayos. The leaflets contained the names and faces of people accused of working with the Chapitos, including Sinaloa governor Rocha Moya and Senator Enrique Inzunza. That same day, at the end of his term, then-President López Obrador and president-elect Claudia Sheinbaum visited Sinaloa to inaugurate the new Santa María reservoir irrigation system. At night, a white van was abandoned at the southern edge of the city. Inside there were eight bodies and the exterior was spray-painted with a message: “Welcome to Culiacán.”

The next morning, one of the criminal groups created a “narco-blockade” to close the Culiacán-Mazatlán highway, burning five or so cargo trailers to block traffic for several hours. Monday, Sept. 30, a nostalgic López Obrador said goodbye in his last televised morning press conference. That same morning at 9 a.m. Faustino Hernánedez, president of the Sinaloa Livestock Union, was assassinated by firearm. López Obrador’s administration ended with 199,619 homicides, one of the most violent presidential terms in the history of Mexico.

“It’s a wrap!”

Finally, editing is complete. I save the session to the hard drive, pack my suitcase and a friend gives me a lift to the bus station to return to Mazatlán. We say goodbye, wishing each other luck.

I’m constantly checking the news: it appears that the highways are clear. Ahead of me are 233 kilometers and 2.5 hours of travel. The bus is full and the sunset is spectacular. The Costa Rica tollbooth just outside the city, is semi-abandoned: only military and National Guard troops are present. The bus passes through without stopping to pay the toll. 

We drive on. It gets dark. The highway is completely deserted. At the Marmól tollbooth, near Mazatlán, I’m even more surprised: it’s completely empty, without workers, military or National Guard troops. Once again, the bus passes through without stopping.

I get into Mazatlán at 8 p.m. The city looks the same as ever: hot, humid weather and steady traffic. My friends and family update me on the situation in Mazatlán: a few isolated kidnappings and murders, the police and National Guard constantly patrolling. The war, little by little, spreads through Sinaloa.

On Oct. 1, Mexico welcomes its first female president, Dr. Claudia Sheinbaum. A new security strategy emerges with the new government: now, there are security forces on the highways. The Army and National Guard circulate in caravans to monitor and control the violence. Two months from the start of the war, the new government faces a difficult challenge: bring peace to Sinaloa and keep control of the country.

Today, I write this chronicle from the comfort of my home. It’s a cool night. Outside, an ambulance siren wails in the distance. As residents of Sinaloa, we live with the fear that violence could occur at any moment. It’s not a new fear: since the start of Felipe Calderón’s so-called war on drug traffickers, violence has become normalized in Sinaloa. When negative thoughts consume me, I feel powerless thinking how much longer the situation will last. No one wants to be a superhero in this absurd war.

This story was translated by Mexico News Daily senior news editor Rose Egelhoff.

Eduardo Esparza is a professor, filmmaker and professional photographer from Mazatlán, Sinaloa. His first feature film, “Con un pie en la gloria,” will premiere in summer 2025.

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The hard part was over, right? Turns out, becoming a temporary resident is just the prologue to the real story of settling into expat life in Mexico. What follows is a tale of paperwork, patience, and more hoops than I could have imagined.

Let me save you some suspense: getting a temporary residency is the easy part. It feels monumental at the time — and don’t get me wrong, it’s worth celebrating. But once you’ve navigated that process, the true adventures begin. Here’s everything I wish someone had told me about relocating to Mexico.

The car conundrum

After years of relying on public transportation and Uber, I decided it was time to buy a car. Armed with my CURP number, how hard could it be? Cue my first major wake-up call. In Mexico, you can’t finance a vehicle for longer than the length of your temporary residency. That means if you have a one-year residency permit (which is typical when you first apply), forget about those shiny new-car commercials promising low monthly payments for 48 months. Your options are: pay in full, buy used, or renew your residency before buying.

The caveat with buying a used car is that warranties aren’t guaranteed. If you’re lucky, the dealership might offer a short one, but that’s if you’re very lucky.

You’ll also need something called an RFC, which is a tax identification number now required in Mexico for anyone who wants to buy or sell property, including cars. You do not need an RFC if you plan to buy a motorcycle.

You could opt to bring your own car with you across the border, but if you plan to do that it’s a whole different set of rules that can include import taxes, taking the car back across the border every six months if you plan to keep your home country plates, or plating it with Mexican plates.

Plating the beast

Once you’ve secured your ride, it’s time to get it plated. This involves registering the vehicle in your name and obtaining Mexican license plates, which, spoiler alert, requires even more paperwork than buying the car. To get your plates you’ll need:

1. The car’s paperwork (think title, bill of sale, and proof it isn’t stolen — yes, that’s a thing).
2. Your temporary residency card — no skipping this step.
3. Your passport, because of course.
4. Proof of address, usually a utility bill.

Seems straightforward, right? Not so fast.

The utility bill dance

In Mexico, a utility bill is like a golden ticket. It’s proof that you live where you say you live. But there’s a catch, while not everywhere will ask for it to be in your name, if has to be, then it’s a convoluted process (of course) to change it.

To switch an existing utility bill into your name you’ll need:

• A copy of your lease
• Your landlord’s official ID
• The property’s deed
• Proof that the property taxes have been paid
• Signatures and identification from two witnesses

Still with me? Good. Because you’ll also need patience and a sense of humor. Pro tip: Try to bring all the paperwork they could possibly ask for in case the rules vary slightly, which they often do depending on the office, day, or mood of the clerk.

If you can’t switch the utility bill into your name, there’s a workaround: open a Mexican bank account. An official bank statement with your address can serve as proof but don’t expect to have this in hand immediately. Most banks require you to wait until the first week of the month before issuing your first statement.

Timing is everything (except predictable)

Here’s the thing about getting stuff done in Mexico: everything takes longer than you think it will. I mean everything. You might breeze through one step of the process only to hit a wall on the next. Offices close early, systems go down, or someone forgot to mention the extra photocopy you need. The sooner you accept this as part of the experience, the smoother yours will be.

In the end, though, everything does get done eventually. One day you’ll look at your perfectly plated car, your utility bill in your name, and your official bank statement and wonder why you ever stressed about it. 

Moving to Mexico is an adventure in every sense of the world. It’s not just about learning a new language or culture; it’s about learning to live life on Mexico’s timeline. The good news? With patience, humor, and a willingness to embrace the chaos, you’ll not only survive but thrive.

And when you finally settle into your new life, you’ll realize it was all worth it. Welcome to Mexico. You’ve got this. 

Meagan Drillinger is a New York native who has spent the past 15 years traveling around and writing about Mexico. While she’s on the road for assignments most of the time, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or through her blog at drillinjourneys.com

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On Wednesday, García admitted that there is no silver bullet to the violence in Sinaloa, but emphasized that the government is committed to bringing peace to the state no matter how long it takes.

The violence, he said, “won’t be resolved from one day to the next.”

More than 500 people have been murdered in Sinaloa since a full-scale war between the Los Mayos and Los Chapitos factions of the Sinaloa Cartel broke out on Sept. 9.

The trigger for the escalation in the conflict was the arrest of cartel kingpin Ismael “El Mayo” Zambada in the United States in late July after he was allegedly kidnapped and forced onto a private plane by Joaquín Guzmán López, one of the sons of convicted drug lord Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán.

The federal government has deployed additional security forces to Sinaloa, but has been unable to stanch the bloodshed in any significant way.

Sheinbaum: García will seek to improve security strategy in Sinaloa

President Claudia Sheinbaum announced Wednesday that García traveled to Sinaloa on Tuesday.

“He will be there a few days with a special team from the Ministry of the Defense and the Ministry of the Navy,” she told reporters at her morning press conference.

She said that García will help “local forces to coordinate in a better way the [security] strategy in Sinaloa.”

The day the security minister arrived in Sinaloa, federal security forces completed the largest fentanyl bust in Mexican history, seizing more than 1,000 kilograms of the synthetic opioid in the municipality of Ahome.

García announced the bust as well as the arrest of two men on social media, and declared that “these actions will continue until violence decreases in the state of Sinaloa.”

In addition to the hundreds of murders in Sinaloa in recent months, scores of suspected cartel members have been arrested in the northern state.

But the violence has continued: At least 12 people were killed in the state on Wednesday alone.

At her Wednesday morning press conference, Sheinbaum also conceded that violence in Sinaloa won’t “drastically decrease” in a short period of time.

But it will decline, she pledged before emphasizing the importance of a coordinated security plan and reiterating the four pillars of the federal government’s strategy, namely attention to the root causes of crime; consolidation of the National Guard; strengthening of investigative and intelligence practices; and coordination between authorities at all levels of government.

“In Sinaloa, in particular, we took the decision for the minister to go there for a period to guarantee this coordination with Army and Navy forces,” Sheinbaum said.

She didn’t offer any other specific examples of how García will go about improving the security strategy in Sinaloa, which has recorded the second highest number of homicides among Mexico’s 32 federal entities since the new federal government took office on Oct. 1.

Sinaloa and federal authorities will maintain ‘permanent coordination,’ says governor 

García met with Sinaloa Governor Rubén Rocha Moya in Culiacán on Wednesday morning to discuss the current security strategy in the state.

Rocha, who has faced criticism over his management of the security crisis in Sinaloa, said that he and García spoke about “the special strategy for Sinaloa” and about “the presence” the federal security minister “will personally have in the state.”

The governor said they evaluated the security operations that have already been carried out, and declared that state and federal authorities “will be in close permanent coordination in order to strengthen security for the good of Sinaloa residents.”

“El Mayo” Zambada claimed in August that Guzmán López lured him to a property in Culiacán on July 25 on the pretext that he would help resolve a dispute between Rocha and former Culiacán Mayor Héctor Cuén over who should head up the Autonomous University of Sinaloa.

Cuén was allegedly killed at the property where Zambada was supposedly kidnapped. Rocha has denied that he was at the property, or that he had any knowledge of the meeting.

García: Pacifying Sinaloa will take ‘as long as necessary’ 

After his meeting with Rocha, García told a press conference that Sheinbaum gave him the instruction to “review, supervise and coordinate” the security strategy in Sinaloa and ultimately “pacify” the state.

Asked how long pacification of the state would take, he responded:

“I can give you an answer that won’t be very popular: as long as necessary.”

“The important thing,” García continued, is that security authorities are present in the state and ready to “combat violence.”

“Citizens have to be clear about who their allies are. The authorities are the allies of citizens,” he said.

“… We’re going to work every day to reduce violence and actions such as the confiscation of fentanyl won’t stop,” García said.

“A lot of the time we can’t prevent terrible acts like homicides, robberies, … there are things that are beyond our reach … [but] what is within our reach is to prevent [crimes] from going unpunished. That is the task, that is the instruction,” he said.

Much of the recent cartel-related violence in Sinaloa has occurred in and around state capital Culiacán. But García is expected to visits various municipalities in Sinaloa as he pursues a strategy aimed at reducing violence across the state, including in the Pacific coast resort city of Mazatlán.

Federal focus on Sinaloa could help appease Trump 

García Harfuch’s presence in Sinaloa and the focus on the fight against fentanyl in the northern state could help the Mexican government to get on the right side of Donald Trump, who will be sworn in as the United States 47th president on Jan. 20.

Trump last week threatened to impose a 25% tariff on all Mexican and Canadian exports to the United States due to what he described as the “long simmering problem” of migrants and drugs entering the U.S. via Mexico and Canada.

He said he would impose the tariffs on the first day of his second term and that they would remain in effect “until such time as Drugs, in particular Fentanyl, and all Illegal Aliens stop this Invasion of our Country!”

The record seizure of fentanyl in Sinaloa came just eight days after Trump issued his threat.

Operativo realizado en la Col. Francisco I. Madero, de #Sinaloa, por parte se @SEMAR_mx, @SEDENAmx, @GN_MEXICO_ y @FGRMexico.
Se logró el decomiso de 151 maquinitas tragamonedas, las cuales se encontraban en 17 establecimientos que operaban de manera irregular como mini casino. pic.twitter.com/8SfB0bz3ve

— Santiago Delta (@Santiagod181281) December 4, 2024

On Tuesday, authorities also seized more than 100 slot machines allegedly operated by Sinaloa Cartel factions.

Ioan Grillo, a Mexico-based crime journalist, wrote on his Substack site Crash Out Media that it was “hard to believe” that the timing of the raids on two properties were the record amount of fentanyl was seized on Tuesday “was a coincidence.”

“Mexican agents will often make big busts handily before bilateral meetings with Washington,” he added.

Sheinbaum hopes that Mexican officials will have the opportunity to meet with members of Trump’s team before Jan. 20 so that they can present their case against the tariff that the former and future U.S. president has threatened to impose on Mexican exports.

In addition to seizing more than 1 tonne of fentanyl in the coastal municipality of Ahome, the army on Tuesday also confiscated in Sinaloa more than 4,000 liters of “chemical substances” used to manufacture methamphetamine, according to a government statement.

Authorities have reported other drug busts in recent days as well as arrests and seizures of firearms and slot machines at “casas de juego” — illegal casinos — allegedly operated by a criminal organization.

On Thursday, García noted on X that another suspect had been arrested in connection with the 1-tonne fentanyl bust on Tuesday.

“The investigations in the state continue,” he added.

According to the U.S. Drug Enforcement Administration, the Sinaloa Cartel, which was founded by El Mayo, El Chapo and others, “is largely responsible for the massive influx of fentanyl into the United States over the past approximately eight years.”

With reports from El Universal, El Financiero and Aristegui Noticias

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