Gulf Coast Archives - Mexico News Daily https://mexiconewsdaily.com/category/gulf-coast/ Mexico's English-language news Mon, 30 Dec 2024 20:22:26 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/cropped-Favicon-MND-32x32.jpg Gulf Coast Archives - Mexico News Daily https://mexiconewsdaily.com/category/gulf-coast/ 32 32 El Viejo de Año Nuevo: Veracruz’s strangest celebration https://mexiconewsdaily.com/culture/el-viejo-veracruz-new-year-celebrations/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/culture/el-viejo-veracruz-new-year-celebrations/#respond Mon, 30 Dec 2024 00:33:50 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=424821 Exactly where it came from, nobody knows, but El Viejo is delightfully weird.

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There’s nothing more distinctly representative of the holidays in Veracruz than spotting your first “old man” wandering the streets — sometimes on fire. To the uninitiated it may sound odd, if not violently eerie. But it’s a reference to a century-old celebration known as “El Viejo de Año Nuevo,” in which “Jarochos” (Veracruz natives) throughout the coastal state end every year within a festive spectacle. And it’s worth seeing the uniquely Veracruzano custom.

The state’s upbeat reputation is on full display as hordes of participants spread joy in the form of dance and music while dressed up old men and occasionally old women (characterized by fake white hairs, a disheveled beard for the men, a cane, and often a Jarocho outfit of white guayabera shirt and pants, with a matching white hat or traditional dress for the ladies). In many indigenous communities, the “old man” is represented with traditional masks and songs. Whatever the appearance, “El Viejo de Año Nuevo” is one of the state’s proudest traditions, bringing together participants of various ages for the annual, intergenerational affair. 

El Viejo de Veracruz
“El Viejo” isn’t just for men either. While rarer, old women can be spotted on the street as well. (Alberto Roa/Cuartoscuro)

It begins on Christmas Day, which in Mexico is predominantly celebrated as Nochebuena on Christmas Eve and ends on January 1. There are variations of the celebration, too. In some places, there is “la quema del viejo.” In this case, effigies of old men get burned at midnight to reset the calendar and ward off negative spirits. These effigies are dressed up to appear as elders, and are customarily stuffed with dried banana leaves. The burning of these “old men” dates back centuries to traditions brought over from the Spaniards. And not every community partakes in the pyres, either. 

For my parents and family members who grew up in Veracruz’s capital, Xalapa, each año nuevo began afresh with “El Viejo,” something as customary for them as it is to eat tamales and pambazos. My dad recounts his memories as a child and adolescent in Xalapa. In his retelling, he and his friends would go around Xalapa and watch people of all ages dressed as old men as they played music, asked for money, and sang the age-old lyrics (which has since been modernized into various remixes) past midnight.

The celebratory procession is said to have started as a labor protest in 1875 in the port city of Veracruz. As the legend goes, a group of dock workers didn’t receive their annual “aguinaldo,” or Christmas bonus, and began to demand their dues by gathering in the streets. Another version of the story differs in that the workers were demanding to take home unclaimed shipments at the end of the year, as was customary, but were forcefully denied by the port’s managers. 

In response to not receiving the end-of-year rewards, a man who is simply known by his last name, Bovril, took charge and began to make noise outside of the port managers’ homes, until crowds of more workers gathered, with the intent to collect money and goods. The next year, the dock workers repeated their actions but dressed up as old men, or “viejos.” It’s unclear exactly how the costume became popularized.

YouTube Video

In a vastly different telling, multiple sources have also cited a Korean immigrant who brought over the custom while wearing a mask in the streets of Veracruz until children started to follow him around, dancing and singing. Whatever the origin, it’s stronger than ever in Veracruz, where the current Governor, Rocío Nahle García, is currently pushing a campaign to celebrate the custom with tourists and locals alike with the tagline “¡Veracruz está de la moda!”. But for many, it doesn’t need any marketing, since it’s a practice that has been passed down over generations.

“It’s a culture that is preserved in every pueblo,” said a participant in an interview with Cronica de Xalapa. “We maintain the musical aspect. That’s what keeps the tradition fresh. We add rhythm and it keeps us united by bringing more joy to homes.”

To be sure, every region throughout Veracruz — including Cordoba, Veracruz-Boca del Río, Xalapa, Orizaba and many others — will host their own version of a parade. The state’s main event will take place at Parque Zamora in Veracruz beginning at 1 p.m. In the evening, a fireworks display will occur at nearby la Plaza del Migrante Libanés, Villa del Mar, Asta Bandera, Hotel Lois y Plaza de los Valores. 

Alan Chazaro is the author of This Is Not a Frank Ocean Cover Album , Piñata Theory and Notes From the Eastern Span of the Bay Bridge (Ghost City Press, 2021). He is a graduate of June Jordan’s Poetry for the People program at UC Berkeley and a former Lawrence Ferlinghetti Fellow at the University of San Francisco. His writing can be found in GQ, NPR, The Guardian, L.A. Times and more. Originally from the San Francisco Bay Area, he is currently based in Veracruz.

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La Rama: A Christmas tradition that marches through time https://mexiconewsdaily.com/culture/la-rama-a-christmas-tradition-that-marches-through-time/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/culture/la-rama-a-christmas-tradition-that-marches-through-time/#comments Tue, 24 Dec 2024 11:12:32 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=423099 Mexico has some unique traditions, but Veracruz's stick-waving, song-singing, mildly threatening La Rama might just be the most unique of all.

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I’ll never forget the night La Rama ambushed my quiet Guinness. There I was, at an Irish pub in Veracruz, smugly cradling a pint, convinced I’d escaped the Christmas chaos outside. Then they burst in — kids wielding a glittering tree branch like it was Excalibur, tambourines shaking like the prelude to a medieval battle charge. Their songs, delivered with the wild energy only kids on a sugar high can summon, were a joyful riddle to me, as my Spanish at the time barely extended beyond “tacos, por favor.” But the message was clear: empty your pockets or wear the shame of a barroom Scrooge.

The scene unfolded against a backdrop of “authentic” Irish kitsch that looked like it had been stolen from a Cracker Barrel clearance sale. It was surreal, chaotic, and — somehow — utterly brilliant. Holiday cheer, I realized, needs no translation; it barges in, shakes a tambourine, and demands your attention. I raised my glass to them, finished my pint, and handed over my coins, knowing that even though I had just arrived, Veracruz and I would get along very well.

La Rama in Veracruz
You think you’re having a quiet pint and then… BAM. La Rama’d. (Silla Rota)

In Veracruz, Mexico, Christmas doesn’t just arrive — it parades in on an adorned tree branch, singing at your doorstep. This is La Rama, a tradition as lively as it is heartwarming. For eight nights, from December 16 to 24, the streets of Veracruz come alive with a charming procession of song, light, and laughter. It’s a celebration where the simplest things — a branch, a song, a smile — become humble symbols for the holiday spirit.

Where did La Rama begin?

One of the most fascinating tales of La Rama begins in the early colonial period, when Spanish missionaries arrived in Veracruz with big dreams and bigger agendas. They needed a way to convince the locals that Christianity wasn’t all fire and brimstone, so they borrowed something familiar: the evergreen branch, already a symbol of life and renewal for indigenous people. It was a clever move, really — using the locals’ beliefs to make their own pitch.

In one instance, they enlisted the Nahua people to organize solemn processions. Picture it: singing, flower-laden branches, and offerings of food or small tokens, all while nodding to both saints and ancient gods. The rama would visit homes, its bearers accepting gifts in return for prayers and blessings. A spiritual quid pro quo.

But, as traditions tend to do, La Rama evolved. By the 19th century, the solemnity had been tossed out the window like stale bread. The songs became cheeky and playful, the processions louder and more festive. Entire neighborhoods in Veracruz turned the tradition into a contest — branches became elaborate art pieces, and singers tried to outshine each other with humor and charm. It was less about religion and more about community spirit, with just a pinch of rivalry.

YouTube Video

And here we are today. La Rama still marches on, a testament to the adaptability of culture. What started as a tool for conversion became something far richer—a celebration of creativity, connection, and the simple joy of a well-decorated branch. Sometimes, traditions aren’t just kept alive; they thrive despite everything. By the 20th century, it had evolved into the lively neighborhood tradition we know today — a moving festival that combines faith, art, and just a bit of mischief.

If you were to wander through Veracruz during those festive nights, you’d see groups of children and adults carrying branches bedecked in everything from colored paper and tinsel to balloons and LED lights. The decoration styles can vary wildly, from rustic charm to what can only be described as a glitter explosion.

The singers — armed with guitars, tambourines, and voices brimming with enthusiasm — perform traditional verses as they go from house to house. The songs are simple but spirited, often calling out the residents to come and enjoy the display. A typical verse might praise the host’s generosity or humorously lament the lack of sweets on the previous stop. It’s a mix of caroling, storytelling, and gentle peer pressure wrapped in holiday cheer.

Verse 1:
“Hola buenas noches, ya estamos aquí
aquí está la rama que les prometí;
que les prometí venir a cantar,
pero mi aguinaldo me tienen que dar.”
(Hello, good evening, we are already here,
here is the branch I promised you;
I promised to come and sing,
but my gift you must give to me.)

Verse 2:
“Naranjas y limas,
limas y limones,
más linda es la virgen
que todas las flores.”
(Oranges and limes,
limes and lemons,
the Virgin is more beautiful
than all the flowers.)

Verse 3:
“En un portalito de cal y de arena,
nació Jesucristo
por la Noche Buena.”
(In a little stable of lime and sand,
Jesus Christ was born
on Christmas Eve.)

Verse 4:
“Yo no quiero vino,
ni quiero cerveza,
yo lo que quiero
es pasar a la mesa.”
(I don’t want wine,
nor do I want beer,
what I want
is to sit at the table.)

Verse 5:
“Zacatito verde lleno de rocío,
el que no se tape
se muere de frío.”
(Little green grass full of dew,
those who don’t cover themselves
will die of cold.)

Verse 6:
“A la media noche un gallo cantó,
y en su canto dijo,
ya Cristo nació.
Cristo nació,
por ser poderoso,
y ahora tenemos a un niño gracioso.”
(At midnight, a rooster crowed,
and in its song, it said,
Christ is already born.
Christ was born,
because He is mighty,
and now we have a gracious little boy.)

Verse 7:
“La calaca tiene un diente, tiene un diente,
y la muerte tiene dos.
Si no me dan mi aguinaldo, mi aguinaldo
ya la pagaran con Dios.”
(The skeleton has one tooth, has one tooth,
and death has two.
If you don’t give me my gift, my gift,
you’ll answer to God.)

Farewell (if given a gift):
“Ya se va la rama muy agradecida
porque en esta casa fue bien recibida.”
(The branch now departs, very grateful,
because in this house, it was well received.)

Farewell (if not given a gift):
“Ya se va la rama muy desconsolada
porque en esta casa no nos dieron nada.”
(The branch now departs, very disheartened,
because in this house, we were given nothing.)

Give them their gift, and they’ll leave grateful. Deny them, and the disheartened farewell will haunt your conscience like a ghost of Christmas past. Choose wisely; your ending depends on you. What do they receive? Similar to Halloween, the kids get candy, pocket change, or whatever the unsuspecting adults have on them. It’s not about the monetary value, though. It’s about connection, the joy of giving and receiving, and the sense that everyone — rich or poor, young or old — has something to share.

Stephen Randall has lived in Mexico since 2018 by way of Kentucky, and before that, Germany. He’s an enthusiastic amateur chef who takes inspiration from many different cuisines, with favorites including Mexican and Mediterranean.

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My American Dream is in Mexico: Alan https://mexiconewsdaily.com/mexico-living/my-american-dream-is-in-mexico-alan-chazaro/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/mexico-living/my-american-dream-is-in-mexico-alan-chazaro/#comments Sun, 22 Dec 2024 16:43:40 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=422192 Disaffected with the direction of the U.S., a Bay Area poet moved himself and his family to start a new life in Veracruz.

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Alan Chazaro made the bold decision to leave behind his vibrant network and life in the San Francisco Bay Area to embrace a quieter existence in Xalapa, Veracruz. For Alan and his family, the move wasn’t just a change of scenery — it was an intentional step toward grounding his young son in the linguistic, social, and cultural richness of Mexico.

Alan’s journey is the latest feature in MND’s “My American Dream is in Mexico” series, which spotlights the growing trend of Mexican-Americans reclaiming their heritage by choosing to live in Mexico. Each story delves into the motivations behind the move, the complexities of navigating dual identities, and the profound connections rediscovered in the country their parents once left behind.

San Francisco
First and foremost Alan identifies as a child of the Bay Area, where he was born and raised. (Nic Y/Unsplash)

Alan’s story weaves together themes of family, poetry, and the impacts of gentrification on a young family, offering a glimpse into what it means to make a home in Mexico.

Can you share your journey from discovering poetry to teaching, and what led you to writing full-time?

“Growing up in the San Francisco Bay Area, I was surrounded by diversity, hip-hop, and graffiti culture. As a teenager, I found my voice through rap and graffiti — spray-painting walls at night with my friends — because those were things my peers respected. Poetry, on the other hand, wasn’t something I could openly claim back then.

My journey into poetry was slow. It wasn’t until I sat in a classroom, away from my friends, that I started taking it seriously. Reading poets like Walt Whitman for the first time at 18 or 19 really drew me in. His sense of community, caring for others, and paying attention to the world resonated deeply. Poetry gave me a sense of value, confidence, and belonging — something I needed but didn’t realize was missing.

Alan Chazarro and family in Mexico
Alan spent much of career teaching across the United States, often working with at risk children.

Later, I spent a decade teaching high school in high-need areas, from New Orleans to Boston. Many of my students had been expelled, faced homelessness, or spent time in jail. That work taught me so much — about appreciating what I have and about the resilience of young people who feel invisible, like I did growing up as a Latino boy with immigrant parents. It also deepened my belief in the importance of helping others feel seen and heard.

After 10 years, I was exhausted and needed a change. I applied to grad school for poetry at the University of San Francisco and received a fellowship, which meant I didn’t have to pay—an amazing privilege in the U.S. That’s when I transitioned from teaching to writing full-time. I channeled all the energy I’d spent on lesson plans and mentoring into my art, and that’s how I wrote my first two books.”

What role does identity play in your poetry and storytelling?

“I realized my upbringing was pretty unique. As a Latino, growing up without an everyday mother in my house was already transformative. Then, on top of that, being Mexican-American and growing up in the San Francisco Bay Area added its own layers. San Francisco is such an innovative and politically open place. I was going to protests as a teenager because that’s just the kind of environment San Francisco has always been — progressive and caring about others. That mindset naturally made its way into my poetry.

Being from the Bay Area is a big part of my identity — it’s number one for me. Then, being the son of immigrants comes next, and growing up in a single-parent household is another layer. As I started peeling back these parts of myself, I realized I didn’t know too many poets with my background or my path. Even the Latino poets I was reading were mostly traditional Chicanos from L.A., but that wasn’t me. I was a nerd from Silicon Valley who grew up watching Star Wars.

At the time, I hadn’t read a book that felt like it was written for someone like me. A lot of us feel that something needs to be said that hasn’t been said yet, and I thought maybe I could say it. That’s what drove my first books. I wanted to be the Bay Area Mexican-American millennial nerd I hadn’t seen in literature. My hope was that others like me — not exactly like me, but people who felt unseen — could find themselves in my work, or feel inspired to write their own stories after reading mine.”

What was the inspiration behind Notes from the Eastern Span, your 2021 book?

“I wrote my most recent poetry book from the perspective of the Bay Bridge, which connects Oakland and San Francisco. When I was growing up in San Francisco, the bridge was old and eventually torn down to make way for this new, shiny white bridge. To me, that bridge became a symbol of gentrification. It felt like a gut punch, and I think a lot of people from the Bay Area feel the same way.

In the U.S., Alan felt torn between his Mexican identity, and a relentless march of progress that did not value him or his history.

Growing up in a place like San Francisco, you see so much change over time. People come in, driven by Tiktok, social media, and the ways the world works now, and gentrification pushes out people who’ve been there for generations. It’s painful to watch friends, family, and even students no longer able to afford to live where they grew up. There’s a sense of loss — not just of people, but of culture and connection.

This third book emerged from processing that sense of loss. The destruction and rebuilding of the bridge felt like a metaphor for the transformation of the Bay Area. The new bridge wasn’t built for people like my dad, a Mexican immigrant; it was for a new wave of tech industry arrivals who often lack the same history or deep connections to the community. Today, San Francisco is the most childless major city in the U.S. and likely one of the cities with the widest wealth gap among its residents”

How has your personal experience with gentrification influenced your decision to move to Mexico?

“My mom always told us to be proud of being Mexican and reminded us that we weren’t white. As I got older, that shaped my connection to Mexico. When it comes to gentrification, I feel like I was pushed out of where I grew up in California. So, I was careful about where I moved to in Mexico. I didn’t want to go to Mexico City, Guadalajara, or even San Miguel de Allende, which is beautiful but full of foreigners. I’m not against people moving, but I didn’t want to just live in a city, go to the cool restaurants, and feel disconnected. 

That’s why I chose Xalapa. There aren’t many Americans here, and even my family makes fun of me for being the gringo, which I’m fine with. I wanted to be here because my family lives here — my mom and my abuela — and I wanted my son to grow up in a community. I didn’t want to be one of those expats moving to places like Cancun or Tulum. I’ve met people who move here without a connection to Mexico, and sometimes they act entitled, thinking they know more about the country than people who’ve lived here their whole lives. To me, that’s part of gentrification. I didn’t want to be in that group. I wanted to live a Mexican life in Mexico speaking Spanish.”

How does living in Veracruz compare to life in the Bay Area?

“My wife Briana and I first got a taste of Mexico in 2019 and returned to the Bay Area in 2020 when COVID hit, but living in Mexico was always in our hearts. We wanted to give our son, Maceo, a life that was rich and full of experiences because that’s something that we both created for ourselves. Mexico became the place where we could own a home and have the time to really be with him. In the Bay Area, you’re constantly driving, working long hours, stuck in traffic, and there’s little time or space for family. 

People in the U.S. are addicted to work and the stress of it all, while in Mexico, there’s a much better family life balance. The U.S. is stressful and divided politically, and we felt that Mexico, with our family connections and our ability to speak Spanish, was the place where we could spend these early years with Maceo. It’s a huge privilege that we even have this choice, but Mexico allows for family life to take center stage in a way the U.S. doesn’t.”

Alan Chazarro and his family in Mexico City
Alan and his family (seen here in Mexico City) have now relocated to Xalapa, Veracruz.

How has your identity as a U.S.-born Mexican-American shaped your experience in Mexico?

“As I’ve grown older, I’ve come to see being Mexican-American as a “third culture.” I don’t pretend to be fully Mexican or gringo. There are Mexican-Americans who feel more connected to either side, but for me, it’s about embracing my unique blend of experiences — like the Bay Area hip-hop and fusion culture I grew up with. I’m proud of my Mexican heritage and have worked to connect with it, which is why I live in Mexico with my son. But I also don’t get offended when people here see me as gringo. I remind myself that I’ve had the privilege to experience more than many of my relatives who’ve never left home. As my wife says, it takes courage to leave what you know and walk in another world.”

What advice would you give to other Mexican-Americans considering a move to Mexico?

“My biggest advice is to spend time in the place you’re considering moving to and trust your intuition. As a writer, I’ve learned to listen to my gut, and moving to Mexico felt like a calling for me. Don’t let others’ doubts, like concerns about safety, distract you. Block out the noise and really listen to yourself. Moving here wasn’t easy — leaving my job, buying a home, and relocating my family — but I trusted that it was the right decision. And if things don’t work out, it’s okay to pivot.”

Rocio is based in Mexico City and is the creator of CDMX iykyk, a newsletter designed to keep expats, digital nomads and the Mexican diaspora in the loop. The biweekly dispatches feature top news, cultural highlights, upcoming CDMX events & local recommendations. For your dose of must-know news about Mexico, subscribe here

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What to do when you lose your dog in Mexico — A reunion chronicle https://mexiconewsdaily.com/lifestyle/what-to-do-if-you-have-a-lost-dog-in-mexico/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/lifestyle/what-to-do-if-you-have-a-lost-dog-in-mexico/#comments Sat, 21 Dec 2024 16:15:13 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=421839 Microchipping pets in Mexico is not a thing. So, what do you do if you lose your four-pawed friend?

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“But isn’t she chipped?” my friends and family back home asked me when I told them about my lost dog.

No, she wasn’t chipped. And while I can’t speak for all places in Mexico, I can for my own city. Microchips in pets are not a “thing” here. Even if I’d had my dog microchipped somewhere else, no one where I live would even have a scanner to read it.

A dog with a collar behind a fence
Doggie day cares are the safe way to go when you need to travel and your pet can’t come along. (Osvaldo Florez/Unsplash)

So how did she get lost in the first place?

Now that my partner has started working in a nearby city, I travel quite a bit to see him. Unfortunately, dogs aren’t allowed where he’s renting, nor is the place suitable for a pet. Until we can find something better, I’ve simply got to find someone else to care for her when I’m away.

One option is a pensión, a doggie care facility where she can stay. These can come in all shapes and sizes, and aren’t all that expensive by U.S. standards. Sadly, I’m acclimated to Mexican prices, and 250 pesos a night adds up quickly when it’s frequent! It will do in a pinch, but like many hopelessly soft gringas, I’d so much rather she stay with someone she knows and trusts.

So when a friend who works from home offered to keep her, I breathed a sigh of relief and packed her little doggy bag.

A dog sleeping soundly in a couch

In Mexico, doggie day cares are known as “pensiones”. (Joshua Chun en Unsplash)Their time together was nice. Each day, I got cute photos and videos of Lola, lounging comfortably in her home-away-from-home. On the morning I was set to pick her up, though, my friend called me, shaken.

There had been fireworks early that morning. Because as we all know, saints love morning fireworks, and this was not going to be the year we disappointed Saint Jude!

Here’s what happened: my friend briefly left Lola on her enclosed front patio while she took her daughter to catch the bus. When she got back, Lola was gone, having slipped through the wider bars that had seemed much too high for her to reach.

But a panicked dog can jump to great heights. Oh no.

What to do if your dog gets lost in Mexico

Lost dog sign
Talking to neighbors and those in charge of nearby business is a good way to go when losing your dog. (Foto de Randy Laybourne en Unsplash)

Still, we tried. Had someone picked her up? Doubtful, as she’s quite skittish around strangers. Was she hiding in someone’s yard, or a park or one of the other million possible places she could fit? Perhaps.

Was she using her magical doggy nose to slowly but surely make her way back home, many kilometers away? This I felt sure of, but it was impossible to know what route she’d have taken, and the streets she would have had to cross were formidable.

My  friend and I got to work. We wandered the surrounding area for hours over three different mornings. We printed Lost Dog signs and put them up. We knocked on doors and talked to the people who notice things that go on in neighborhoods: the merchants, the trash collectors, the older people who sit on their porches all day. We posted on Facebook’s many local lost pet groups, over and over again. My friend paid for a lost dog service that promised to use geography-specific targeted ads to get the word out in the areas she was likely to be. I cried in despair and worry more than once.

A labrador in a busy street
Lost dogs often get anxious and confused, especially in neighborhoods they don’t feel familiar with. (Redd Francisco en Unsplash)

On the third day driving back home, what my religious friends call a miracle and my atheist friends call a wonderful coincidence occurred: I spotted Lola on the street.

Miraculously — I’m going with miracle — as I was driving back home in tears, I looked to my right. There was my little dog, crossing the street perpendicular to the one I was on. I quickly pulled into an X24’s tiny parking lot and rolled down the window to call to her. She looked around, confused, and finally spotted me when I opened the car door. She hopped in, and we had a happy, tearful reunion in front of a very confused X24 employee.

Now that all this has happened, I’m prepared: Lola has a new collar that never comes off, and an AirTag on her collar, as well. For good measure, she has her regular metal tag with my phone number on it, too.

There might not be any microchips, but this dog is not getting lost again. Although I do still need to figure out what to do with her when I have to leave town.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa, Veracruz. She can be reached through her website, sarahedevries.substack.com.

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With state oil company Pemex behind on payments, small suppliers face financial crisis https://mexiconewsdaily.com/business/pemex-state-oil-company-payments-suppliers-subcontractors/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/business/pemex-state-oil-company-payments-suppliers-subcontractors/#comments Fri, 20 Dec 2024 23:23:05 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=422803 Small Gulf Coast subcontractors are struggling to pay Christmas bonuses and other end-of-year obligations, or even shutting down entirely.

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Some suppliers and service providers for state oil producer Pemex are facing severe financial difficulties as the beleaguered company has fallen behind on payments.

Several businesses have been meeting with Pemex officials to address the mounting debt, but as of Thursday no payment plans had been announced, according to El Economista newspaper.

A crowd of people walk down a street bearing a banner reading "PEMEX: El trabajo ya se hizo. PAGAR es tu compromiso"
Pemex local suppliers in Ciudad Carmen, Campeche, protest lack of payment by the state oil company. (Petroleros al Aire)

“I can confirm that no payments have been made nor is there a tentative date for payments to be made,” one oil drilling company rep told El Economista. “It appears possible that we might not get paid until February.”

Oil and Gas Magazine reported on Wednesday that Pemex canceled a Monday meeting with Senate Energy Committee members during which the debt to subcontractors was to be discussed.

Committee member Óscar Cantón Zétina, a senator from the oil-producing state of Tabasco, expressed a desire to reschedule the meeting in the near future. Before the congressional session went into recess last week, Cantón had presented a point of order demanding that Pemex’s debt with suppliers be made public.

President Sheinbaum orders review of Pemex debt

Pemex has been the world’s most indebted oil company for years and owed national and international service providers nearly US $22 billion back in April, according to the news agency Reuters.

Earlier efforts to reduce its overall debt of nearly US $100 billion have done little to ease the debt owed to suppliers which now sits at around US $20.5 billion, according to El Economista.

On Nov. 28, President Claudia Sheinbaum ordered a review of the debt owed to suppliers, saying that a variety of payment mechanisms were being studied and refined, though she provided no details.

That same day, it was reported that Pemex had placed a freeze on new contracts with service providers.

The news agency Bloomberg News reported that an internal company document described the action as a temporary halt by Pemex’s exploration and production arm that applied to new agreements with contractors that had not been previously formalized.

Alkylation unit at the Olmeca Refinery
With nearly US $100 billion in debt, Pemex is the most indebted oil company in the world. (Refinería Olmeca-Dos Bocas/X)

A Pemex statement explained that it would be performing an analysis of pending deals coming due before year-end and that select contracts deemed necessary could still be signed.

The Finance Ministry is reportedly working “to enlist a group of banks to provide Pemex with financing to pay off the company’s debts to service providers,” Bloomberg reported, but such loans may come too late for some suppliers.

Suppliers in Campeche sound off

Mexico Business News reported on Dec. 3 that business leaders in the state of Campeche sounded the alarm over the delayed payments from Pemex.

Many local companies are having difficulty meeting year-end obligations, such as employee bonuses, social security contributions, taxes and payments to Infonavit, Mexico’s public housing agency.

Some of the debt dates back to 2023, El Economista reported. Several businesses face threats of asset seizure due to their own unpaid loans, Mexico Business News reported, and the situation is so dire that an organization called “The Broad Front of Subcontractors Serving Pemex” was formed.

The Front staged several demonstrations in November, threatened to blockade a bridge in Ciudad del Carmen and announced a protest march for Friday.

A Pemex refinery
Commercial associations have tried both public requests and collective organization to pressure Pemex into paying its debts to suppliers. (Presidencia/Cuartoscuro)

Around the same time, Reuters reported, the Mexican Association of Oil Service Companies (Amespac) sent a letter to Pemex asking the company to pay its members overdue debts totaling US $5.1 billion. The association represents some of the most important oil service providers in Mexico.

Amespac argued that just setting up a schedule “would provide certainty for operations and allow companies to fulfill their commitments.”

“This situation has caused an adverse effect on our finances and a negative impact in the areas where we operate,” it wrote.

The financial difficulties impact a variety of businesses, including multinationals such as Baker Hughes and Halliburton.

Small companies also have been hit by the debt crisis. El Economista reported that a Campeche helicopter company that transports oil workers to offshore rigs closed down this month.

In the state of Tamaulipas, state Energy Development Minister José Ramón Silva said roughly 700 local businesses have been affected, including 400 companies that had bid on contracts or applied to be formally registered as suppliers.

With reports from El Economista, Bloomberg News and Mexico Business News

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Bottlenose dolphins in Gulf of Mexico test positive for fentanyl, other pharmaceuticals https://mexiconewsdaily.com/news/dolphins-fentanyl/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/news/dolphins-fentanyl/#comments Thu, 12 Dec 2024 22:45:12 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=420066 U.S. researchers said they found 3,000 pharmaceutical compounds inside the dolphins' blubber, which included opioids, sedatives and relaxants.

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Traces of fentanyl have been found inside bottlenose dolphins in the Gulf of Mexico, raising concerns that pharmaceuticals may be affecting sea life in the Gulf.

Researchers at Texas A&M University-Corpus Christi (TAMU-CC) studied 89 dolphins from three areas of the Gulf of Mexico and found traces of drugs in 30 of them, including 24 that had traces of fentanyl.

Woman scientist in a white lab coat in a laboratory, looking into a microscope
Dr. Dara Orbach, leader of the study. (Texas A&M University Corpus Christi)

“It’s not something we were looking for, so of course we were alarmed to find something like fentanyl, especially with the fentanyl crisis happening in the world right now,” doctoral student Makayla Guinn said, according to KCRA TV News. 

Dara Orbach, the study’s lead author, said the findings are disturbing.

“Pharmaceuticals have become emerging micropollutants and are a growing global concern as their presence has been reported in freshwater ecosystems, rivers, and oceans worldwide,” Orbach said.

Guinn said there were more than 3,000 different pharmaceutical compounds inside the dolphin blubber, including opioids, sedatives and relaxants.

The study traces its roots to a routine boating survey in September 2020, when university researchers recovered a dead dolphin in the Gulf. About two years later, they used the carcass for hormone blubber analysis and came across the drug.

Since then, the TAMU-CC researchers have run tissue samples from 89 dolphins — including 83 collected via live dolphin biopsies and six from dead dolphins — through a mass spectrometer, looking to see how widespread the contamination was.

Orbach said that dolphins’ fatty blubber is a good indicator of ocean pollutant levels because it can store contaminants and be sampled in a minimally invasive way in live animals. She described dolphins as a bioindicator species of ecosystem health.

The dolphins were found in Redfish Bay and the Laguna Madre in Texas and in the Mississippi Sound, along the Gulf Coast of the U.S. states of Mississippi and Alabama.

While pharmaceuticals were found in 30 of the 89 samples, fentanyl was found in all six of the dead dolphins.

“These drugs and pharmaceuticals are entering our water, and they have cascading effects in our marine life,” Guinn added.

The big question the TAMU-CC researchers haven’t been able to answer, according to KCRA TV News, is how did fentanyl get into the dolphins’ blubber?

As dolphins don’t drink seawater — they get water mainly from the breakdown of their food — they may have acquired the chemicals through their diet or absorption through the skin, the science news media outlet Science Alert speculated. 

One possibility mentioned by TAMU-CC researchers is that the drugs come from wastewater absorbed by the dolphins’ prey, such as fish and shrimp. This would be a concern since humans eat fish and shrimp. 

Orbach hopes their findings lead to more wide-ranging research to trace the fentanyl’s source and to limit potential damage to the ecosystem.

Another potential source of contamination is from the fentanyl and other synthetic drugs being trafficked by Mexican drug cartels via the Gulf of Mexico

Given that more than a quarter of Earth’s rivers have been found to contain pharmaceuticals, according to Science Alert, it’s perhaps no surprise that these drugs are being found in sea life.

In July, the magazine Science reported that researchers in Brazil found traces of cocaine in the livers and muscles of sharks. Studies have shown that cocaine likely enters the sea in drainage from illegal labs where cocaine is refined.

With reports from Science Alert, KCRA News, Aristegui Noticias and El Pais

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Alternative Mexican adventures for a Christmas to remember https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/alternative-mexican-aventures-for-a-christmas-to-remember/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/alternative-mexican-aventures-for-a-christmas-to-remember/#respond Mon, 02 Dec 2024 16:55:53 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=416310 Some of Mexico's most important sites can offer you the chance to enjoy them in peace if you visit during the Christmas period.

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For the first time in over a decade, I’m going to taking my Christmas vacations in Mexico. It’s the peak of high season for Canadian and American visitors since most of us get time off for the holidays. 

States like Quintana Roo and Oaxaca will be crowded with tourists. But, as someone who has been to most of the popular tourist spots, one question comes to mind: What other places in Mexico should I explore instead? 

Crowds in Mexico City
If this doesn’t look like your idea of a good time, here are some other Mexican landmarks that are much less busy in the Christmas period. (Shutterstock)

I asked some family members, friends I have in Mexico and Mexican-Canadian residents I know for their recommendations and created a new “Mexico bucket list” with three Mexican states that make for the perfect Christmas vacation. 

If you plan to be in Mexico this holiday season and want to go off the beaten path, you’ve come to the right article! 

Channel my inner Indiana Jones in Puebla

The Santiario de la Virgen de los Remedios, in Cholula, Puebla, one area in the MND Where to Live in Mexico 2024 Guide: Puebla, Morelos and Chiapas.
The convent atop the Great Pyramid in Cholula is one of Mexico’s most iconic sights. (Unsplash)

Do you know where the biggest known pyramid in the world is? It’d be fair to guess the great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt. But believe it or not, it’s a short day trip away from Puebla. It’s called The Great Pyramid of Cholula and even holds a Guinness World Record. While it’s not as tall, it boasts significantly more volume than its Cairene cousins, making it an impressive feat of engineering.

From afar, Cholula seems like a mountain with a yellow church overlooking all the people and town streets below. But drone footage of the pyramid gives you a better idea of its impressive architectural stature.  

Losing yourself within the city of Puebla also sparks adventure. If you wander around its downtown center, there’s a plethora of beautiful colonial architecture and talavera tiles everywhere you look. If you’re a history buff (or love taking pics for your socials), the Puebla Cathedral is a great item to add to the itinerary. If you pray hard enough at the cathedral, “apparently” you’ll be granted three wishes according to folklore. 

In the event you’ve always wanted to go on a safari in Africa but couldn’t afford the flights, Puebla has other next best thing — Africam Safari. It’s possible to see elephants, lions, flamingos, monkeys, and so much more in this excursion, which just adds layers to an Indiana Jones-like adventure where you’re in a constant state of discovering new things. 

Puebla is also home to a great version of Mexican cuisine. From mole poblano, cemitas, and tacos arabes, you can eat your way through Mercado de Sabores and indulge in the local flavors. 

Enjoy tacos and hang out in Campeche

Campeche
Campeche offers all the charm of Yucatán living with a dash of colonial history. (Visit-Mexico)

Full disclosure: Campeche tacos are some of my favorites. I’ve become something of a foodie over the years, and I love the combination of steak, chorizo, and chicharrones, a speciality of street stalls in the city. I also like adding slices of avocados inside to make it my own, along with lime and a touch of salsa verde. 

So, why not go to the source for the most authentic version of Campeche tacos? If you’re a foodie, I’d say Campeche is as good an option as anywhere else in Mexico. Since it’s in the Yucatán Peninsula, you’re also able to enjoy things like cochinita pibil and panuchos, so there are plenty of delicious options. 

But exploring Campeche’s downtown center is also well worth your time. This scenic colonial town by the water looks like the best place to move to if I’m ever a digital nomad again. If you consider its historical background, I’d say this is one of the most underrated cities in Mexico. 

Once a major trading port for silver, Campeche flourished as an important settlement for the Spanish in the 1500s. But since there was a lot of money going in and out of that part of Mexico, there were also frequent pirate attacks. Eventually, this forced the residents of Campeche to find a solution, leading to the construction of fortified walls and bastions in the 17th century. 

Today, these fortified walls, cannons, and other military architecture once used to combat Captain Jack Sparrow and his men are UNESCO World Heritage sites. The historically curious can take a guided tour to learn about it in more detail. 

If you’re like me and appreciate a good beach day, Campeche also has you covered. Isla Aguada and Playa Bonita have a good combination of calm waters and just enough sand so you’re not constantly getting it off your clothes as you would be on most beaches in Quintana Roo. Campeche beaches promote seafront vibes that encourage relaxation by the water. Almost like sitting by the lake in a lawn chair. 

It might not feel like a Christmas vacation, but Campeche is an important (and iconic) part of Mexico that’s rarely overrun by crowds, making it a great place to visit this December.

Have a local experience in Veracruz. 

Veracruz
Caribbean and Mexican living collide in Veracruz. (adonde y cuando)

Last year, I met someone from Veracruz at my office job in Canada. When I was thinking of new Mexican vacation ideas, one of the first things I did was ask my friend, Librado, how to make the most of my time in Veracruz if I were to be there for a few days. 

“I would go to La Parroquia for breakfast and then go to the aquarium,” Librado said. “If I’m there for a while, I would also go to San Andres to see the waterfalls and beaches.” 

I was happy to learn La Parroquia is an old-school establishment with traditional values when it comes to making coffee, which is awesome since I enjoy café culture. Upon more research, I learned that Veracruz has Cuban and African influences in its cuisine, music, and even their local dialect. The state even has its own Spanish vernacular.

Veracruz hosts an annual Afro-Caribbean Festival, so the multicultural influences here make it a unique and eclectic part of Mexico. 

Just outside the city, San Andres Tuxtla also caught my attention. A three-hour bus from Veracruz, it’s a popular getaway for locals, and a great option for tourists who like chasing waterfalls, hiking, or tanning on the sand.  

The nature in Salto de Eyipantla and Cascada El Tucan alone looks breathtaking. If hiking is your thing, I’d recommend going down one of these walking trails. The Playa Hermosa trail is the easiest to do, will lead you to picturesque views and is perfect for taking photos along the way. 

The more Librado tells me about his hometown, the more I realize how different Veracruz is compared to the rest of Mexico. It makes me want to go see it for myself. 

Next stop, who knows?

If you have other ideas in mind for a unique Christmas vacation in Mexico, let us know in the comments. With 32 states in the country, there’s so much to see outside of the popular spots.  

Ian Ostroff is an indie author, journalist, and copywriter from Montreal, Canada. You can find his work in various outlets, including Map Happy and The Suburban. When he’s not writing, you can find Ian at the gym, a café, or anywhere within Mexico visiting family and friends.

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At overflowing Veracruz landfill, Greenpeace Mexico demands anti-plastic laws https://mexiconewsdaily.com/news/greenpeace-anti-plastic-laws-veracruz-landfill/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/news/greenpeace-anti-plastic-laws-veracruz-landfill/#respond Thu, 28 Nov 2024 19:31:38 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=415216 The activists called for enforcement of existing plastic bans and management of unregulated dump sites.

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Activists from Greenpeace Mexico and other organizations demonstrated Sunday at a sprawling, open-air garbage dump in the state of Veracruz, denouncing the country’s growing plastic waste crisis and calling for urgent action.

The protesters — some dressed in hazardous material suits and holding a huge banner reading “Anti-Plastic Law Now!” — temporarily blocked operations at the Villa Allende landfill in Coatzacoalcos, a major port city in southern Veracruz on the Gulf of Mexico.

An aerial view of a tanker at port in Coatzacoalcos, Veracruz
Coatzacoalcos, population 212,000, is an important maritime port on the Gulf of Mexico. (Gobierno Municipal Coatzacoalcos)

According to activists with the Allende 213 environmental group, the 33-year-old dump began as a facility for waste only from the locality of Villa Allende.

Now, even though the State Attorney General for Environmental Protection (PMA) has determined the dump should have already been closed, it continues to operate, receiving an estimated 350 to 400 tons of domestic and industrial waste daily, with an estimated 45-60 daily trips by garbage trucks from throughout Coatzacoalcos, according to a Greenpeace Mexico press release.

And since there is no tangible division between the landfill and nearby homes and businesses — some less than 500 meters away  — Villa Allende is being impacted with air, soil, subsoil and water pollution problems, Greenpeace Mexico noted. Nearby residents have long reported issues with noxious odors and health concerns linked to the facility’s operation.

However, the Sunday protest was about more than just Villa Allende.

A man with a crutch sits next to a small pond filled with plastic waste, in front of a trash dump.
Without proper divisions between the dump and residential areas, Villa Allende residents like Asunción Ovando Magaña have reported impacts to their health and quality of life. (Greenpeace Mexico)

The activists called for immediate government intervention to tackle plastic pollution and improve management of overflowing and unregulated garbage dumps throughout the nation — where single-use plastics such as PET bottles, industrial plastics and construction materials are usually the most commonly found items.

“Facilities like this exacerbate environmental and public health risks, particularly for nearby communities,” Greenpeace said in a statement.

The activists urged national and local authorities to more strictly enforce existing legal bans on disposable plastics while also prioritizing investments in infrastructure for waste segregation, recycling and composting. They also called for incentives for sustainable alternatives.

Mexico generates an estimated 1.9 million tons of plastic waste annually, but less than 10% is recycled, according to Greenpeace.

A palm-dotted beach strewn with plastic trash tangled up in sargassum algae
The activists called on authorities to enforce existing laws banning disposable plastics. (Dustan Woodhouse/Unsplash)

The newspaper El País cited a report by the Ministry of Environment and Natural Resources (Semarnat) indicating the situation of plastic pollution on the coasts has reached critical levels, especially in Oaxaca, Guerrero, Chiapas and Veracruz.

Across Mexico, landfills and dumps have become flashpoints for community grievances over pollution and public health risks.

The mayor of Coatzacoalcos, Amado Cruz, has said he will close the Villa Allende dump this year in coordination with Semarnat. However, the local “government has filed an appeal against the closure and so far the dump remains” open, Greenpeace noted.

Greenpeace Mexico urged citizens to sign a petition that aims to get an anti-plastic law presented to the Senate.

With reports from El Universal, Liberal del Sur and El País

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The new architecture revitalizing the state of Veracruz https://mexiconewsdaily.com/real-estate/architecture-at-veracruz-city/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/real-estate/architecture-at-veracruz-city/#comments Mon, 25 Nov 2024 18:03:17 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=413728 The once proud state of Veracruz is seeing exciting new architecture and design, restoring the port to it's former glory.

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When it comes to cultural wealth, Veracruz is one of the richest states in Mexico. The Olmec civilization — often referred to as the mother culture of Mesoamerica —  flourished in this region, as did the Totonac and Huastec peoples. Shortly after the Spanish expedition led by Hernán Cortés made landfall in 1519, they founded Villa Rica de la Veracruz, the town that eventually became the modern city of Veracruz, the state’s largest.  The state of Veracruz is home to 35 sites designated as World Heritage Sites in Mexico, including the pre-Columbian city of El Tajín and the Historic Monuments Zone of Tlacotalpan. 

Among its cultural wealth, the state’s architecture is a standout.  Cities like Veracruz, Tlacotalpan, Xalapa, Coatzacoalcos and Córdoba are architectural treasure troves. Between the 16th century and 1925, architecture in Veracruz was influenced by the Spanish colonial style, with Baroque and Neoclassicism being the most prominent architectural movements of the colonial period. Following the Mexican Revolution, 20th-century architects incorporated influences from styles such as Art Deco, Brutalism, Organicism, and Functionalism.

The 21st century is ushering in a fresh wave of architectural approaches in Veracruz too. Since the turn of the millennium, the state has been home to iconic architects like Enrique Murillo and Danilo Veras Godoy. Firms including Rafael Pardo Ramos, RP Architects, Open Arquitectura, Taller DIEZ 05, Taller ADC and Taller Multidisciplinar contribute to a new architectural identity in Veracruz. 

Foro Boca

Façade of Foro Boca, Veracruz.
Designed by Rojkind Arquitectos, Foro Boca is dedicated to music and the arts, with a concert hall with a capacity for 966 spectators. (Jaime Navarro/ Archdaily.mx)

One of the most remarkable public buildings in Mexico in recent decades is Foro Boca, designed by Rojkind Arquitectos. This venue, dedicated to music and the arts, features large volumes of concrete arranged dynamically. It houses a concert hall with a capacity for 966 spectators, accommodating classical, traditional and popular music performances, as well as theater, dance and film presentations. Located in Boca del Río, one of its primary objectives is to revitalize the city and create a place for encounter and creativity.

Toks restaurant

Toks Restaurant in Veracruz (interior)
Formerly a 17th-century convent, dedicated to Santo Domingo, this venue was transformed into a charming Toks restaurant. (Lucía Cervantes/ Archdaily.mx)

The Legorreta firm, continuing the legacy of the renowned architect Ricardo Legorreta, has transformed the 17th-century ex-convent of Santo Domingo into a charming restaurant.

Located in the historic center of Veracruz, this building is one of the oldest in the city, founded by the Dominicans in 1651. Over the years, it has served various purposes and the recent restoration aimed to keep its structural essence while introducing a refreshing touch of modernity.

Situated in the port of Veracruz, the Veracruz Business Center is an office building notable for its distinctive facade, which takes center stage. The designers employed innovative and cost-effective materials to create a unique facade pattern that blends elements of Brutalism and Functionalism. Inside, the sense of airiness and space is enhanced by natural light and high ceilings. Materia Arquitectónica, known for its emphasis on light, geometric patterns and open spaces, is the creative force behind this project.

Casa Iguana and del Árbol

Façade of Casa Iguana, Veracruz.
At Casa Iguana, the interplay of light, open space and the arrangement of the structures is remarkably creative. (Adrián Llaguno/ Documentación Arquitectónica)

Casa Iguana, designed by Obra Blanca, evokes a sense of being outdoors through its intelligent spatial distribution. The interplay of light, open space and the arrangement of the structures is remarkably creative. The house is essentially divided into three independent volumes connected by a bridge, delineated by three lattice walls made of adobe sills, which reinterpret the wall and balcony finials found in some traditional constructions of the region. The finish of the adobe walls is both elegant and minimalist.

Casa del Árbol, also designed by Obra Blanca, was conceived around a 9-meter-diameter ceiba tree, with some of its branches integrated into the interior elements. Full of light, glass and vibrant Mexican colors, yet maintaining a sense of sobriety, this house has become a new classic in Veracruz. The space is divided into three blocks, featuring interior courtyards in various areas of the residence, large windows overlooking the garden and protection from the sun’s rays provided by the expansive canopy of trees. The design encourages a gradual discovery of the ceiba trees and their elements.

Casa del Abuelo

Designed on a single level to facilitate mobility for its users, the space encourages engagement with the surrounding trees and is intended to promote communal activities and a sense of community.
Casa del Abuelo in Córdoba, serves as a care center for the elderly. (Luis Gordoa/ Archdaily.mx)

Casa del Abuelo, created by Taller DIEZ 05 and located in the city of Córdoba, serves as a public care center for the elderly. Designed on a single level to facilitate mobility for its users, the space encourages engagement with the surrounding trees and is intended to promote communal activities and a sense of community. Its elegant and dynamic design enhances the overall experience.

The design of Plaza Marina Mercante by Taller DIEZ 05 is delightful. Overlooking the port of Veracruz, it was created to foster community interactions while inspiring contemplation and creating pauses within a cohesive space. Visitors are invited to walk through the area, while also finding spots to sit and appreciate the surroundings. Its concrete cubicles frame ocean views in an elegant manner. This public square is part of a larger urban regeneration project in the area and is now recognized as a valuable heritage site for the city.

The now-iconic Zoncuantla Apartments, designed by renowned architect Rafael Pardo Ramos and RP Arquitectos, emphasize views and nature, incorporating over 60 percent green space within the mesophilic forest along the old Xalapa-Coatepec highway. The design encourages contemplation of the environment, featuring four light-filled apartments with a facade that evokes materials such as wood, adobe and earth tones. This project is characterized by an abundance of terraces and a sense of openness.

Ana Paula de la Torre is a Mexican journalist and collaborator for various outlets including Milenio, Animal Político, Vice, Newsweek en Español, Televisa and Mexico News Daily.

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A night under the stars on the most pristine beach in Veracruz https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/glamping-in-los-pinos-beach-the-most-pristine-beach-in-veracruz/ https://mexiconewsdaily.com/travel/glamping-in-los-pinos-beach-the-most-pristine-beach-in-veracruz/#comments Fri, 22 Nov 2024 13:08:13 +0000 https://mexiconewsdaily.com/?p=411120 While not as famous as the Yucatán or the Pacific coast, the beaches of the Gulf of Mexico offer visitors the chance to really enjoy nature.

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We arrived in Los Pinos, a beautiful pine forest with cabins hugging the ocean, next to the hidden coastal town of Palma Sola in Veracruz that barely registered on the map. Perfect, I thought — a place with no Wi-Fi, little cell service, and not a single hotel chain in sight. I was looking to get off the grid, somewhere untouched, and this beach didn’t disappoint. The first thing I noticed was that it had more crabs than people. Hundreds of tiny crabs zipped across the sand like they were late for a meeting, scattering the moment you stepped toward them. They moved with a frenetic energy, like the beach was their city and I was just a guest who needed to behave.

The beach itself was raw and pristine, a stretch of sand bordered by a forest of pine trees, almost like nature’s barricade against civilization. No lifeguards, no umbrellas, just miles of sand and, walking to the beach, I noticed a solitary lighthouse, unsure if it was still active or just a picturesque relic. It didn’t flash or rotate; it simply stood there, like it had been forgotten, overseeing this beautiful beach without purpose or ceremony.

The coastline at Los Pinos is undisturbed. (Steven Randall)

The campgrounds offered two choices: cabins or glamping tents. I’ve always thought “glamping” was an interesting term, a way to experience nature without actually roughing it, my eagle scout comrades would scoff at the very thought. But here, the glamping was just my style, canvas tents with an ocean view, not trying to impress anyone, but just focusing on the natural beauty of the place. The tent came with a basic mattress, a nice antique dresser, stepping out to an ocean view. Part of me wanted the cabin—four walls sounded comforting. But if I was here to be “off the grid,” I figured, I might as well embrace it. I took the tent. 

Night fell quickly in Los Pinos, as if someone flipped a switch. One minute the sun was setting, and the next, we were left with only stars. The friendly employees hauled over a wheelbarrow full of firewood, and were more than willing to help me start the fire. Mesmerizing campfire, check. Large ice cold lager, check. Sounds of the ocean just a baker’s dozen meters away, check.

The next morning, I woke to the sound of waves and sunlight streaming into the tent. The crabs were gone, back in their burrows or wherever it is crabs sleep. I strolled down the beach, breathing in the salty air and the stillness, feeling like I had the world to myself.

The best discovery of Los Pinos was their restaurant next to the cabins, selling shrimp empanadas. What I bit into was unreal — a crispy crust filled with fresh, succulent shrimp with perfectly spicy salsa in the style of “chile seco”. They were, hands down, the best shrimp empanadas I’ve ever had in my life. It was the kind of flavor that makes you rethink every other empanada you’ve ever eaten.

Those with more refined tastes might opt for the “glamping” option over the basic tent. (Stephen Randall)

Afterward, I sat by the shore, letting the morning pass. There was nothing else to do, and that was exactly the point. I’d come to Los Pinos looking for an escape and found it in a quiet beach, a forgotten lighthouse, and a bunch of tiny crabs who let me share their world, if only for a little while.

Stephen Randall has lived in Mexico since 2018 by way of Kentucky, and before that, Germany. He’s an enthusiastic amateur chef who takes inspiration from many different cuisines, with favorites including Mexican and Mediterranean. His recipes can also be found on YouTube.

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