Sierra Norte’s selection currently showcases six expressions made from carefully selected corn cobs: black, white, yellow, red, purple and rainbow, the last of which comes from corn that grows with multi-colored cobs. Each has a unique flavor. Typically the expressions are finished at 45 percent after two years in toasted French oak barrels. 

Corn has been grown in Oaxaca for thousands of years and is the basis of much of the traditional diet. Therefore it is exciting that whiskey brands like Sierra Norte are finally emerging from the region, sharing the rich and delicious flavor of Oaxaca’s corn whiskey with the world. 

Founder Douglas French is better known for his mezcal brand Scorpion, which he launched in the mid-1990s with the help of a team of local women. Since then Scorpion has been produced at their distillery in San Agustín de las Juntas. Following a period of agave scarcity, French and his team began to explore distilling other Oaxacan products.

While scouring markets for agave, French met farmers from the Sierra Norte selling different colored corn cobs. He planted some of the grains in his own fields and shared the outcome with local growers. Now there are several producers he can buy the grains from, to produce Sierra Norte whiskey. 

The Sierra Norte distillery is located in San Agustín, about 30 minutes from downtown Oaxaca, hidden down a narrow dusty street, behind a large but unassuming gate. Once inside, however, visitors find a lush plant nursery, bursting at the seams with flowers and young agave plants. Literally tons of old industrial textile machine parts have been repurposed into sculptures and plant pots. 

 

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There is also some rustic but impressive equipment for the production of mezcal and now whiskey. Alongside the big copper pots used for distillation, members of the Sierra Norte team go through hundreds of cobs of corn, separating the cobs into piles by color. Some pull kernels by hand.

Manager Rogelio Hernández Vez explains that to develop the Scorpion mezcal distillery for whiskey, “4000 liter-tanks were brought in, along with a steaming system, and new pot stills were added to the distillation area.”

The corn is then fermented in stainless steel tanks for around five days. At this stage malted barley is added to the corn; approximately 15 percent barley to 85 percent corn. According to Hernández Vez, barley has a higher sugar content than corn and is needed to stimulate the fermentation.

Sierra Norte is distilled twice, first in stainless steel and then in copper alembic stills. Initially coming out of the still the liquid is clear. What French describes as ‘moonshine.’ At this stage the whiskey has a rich smell and taste of the corn itself.

The next step is aging in barrels. French is passionate about barrel aging and has an extensive range of barrel-aged mezcal, as well as whiskey. Both are aged in 230-liter French oak barrels, which he originally brought over from France to Oaxaca via the port of Veracruz. 

These barrels are charred using oak coals. Charring the inside of the barrel breaks down the structure of the oak, allowing easier penetration by the spirit. It also creates flavor. 

The barrels are laid to rest in concrete cellars. Although the cellars are meant to be cool, there is still considerable evaporation. In whiskey this evaporation during aging is referred to as the “angel’s share.” According to French, Oaxaca’s angels are particularly boozy. 

Sierra Norte whiskey is aged in these cellars for two years. The first barrels of whiskey were filled in 2014 and the Sierra Norte brand officially launched in 2016.

Typically, whiskey produced in Mexico is made from corn and follows United States regulations. This is partly due to much of the product being made to export. This is also true of Sierra Norte. The distiller began producing a mere 250 liters but now produce 8,000 liters and are enjoying global success, exporting Oaxacan whiskey to more than 12 countries. 

Charlie Prince, president of multi-country whiskey tasting club Drammers, says the organization’s international members have shown an interest in the new wave of Mexican corn whiskeys. “We actually bought three single barrels from [Sierra Norte]: a green corn whiskey, a rainbow corn whiskey and a yellow corn whiskey.”

Recently, French and his team have opened the doors of the distillery so visitors can learn about the process and have a full tour of the aging cellars, followed by a tasting of Sierra Norte’s whiskey, presented at different stages of aging. The team guides you through the nuanced flavors of the corn and influence of the barrel. To take a tour, contact Sierra Norte directly. Rambling Spirits can also incorporate a visit as part of a day of Oaxacan spirits.

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

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If you’re in Mexico’s artistic and gastronomic capital this Christmas, here are some of the incredible activities you can enjoy.

December Pilgrimages

In Oaxaca, the Christmas season begins with the annual pilgrimage to Santa Catarina Juquila and the shrine of Our Lady of Juquila, known for healing miracles. Devout pilgrims arrive from a multi-day journey by foot from nearby villages while others travel long distances by bus from other states to celebrate her day of worship.

Date: Dec. 8
Location: Santa Catarina Juquila

Our Lady of Guadalupe is Mexico’s most celebrated saint, with activities in her honor taking place between Dec. 1 and 9. Oaxaca has a particular tradition. Families visit the Templo de la Virgen de Guadalupe, north edge of El Llano Park. Boys dress up as Juan Diego, who first saw the Virgin, while girls wear traditional blouses and skirts with their hair braided with ribbons. 

When: Dec. 12
Where: Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe

Our Lady of Solitude (Nuestra Señora de la Soledad) is the patron saint of Oaxaca and is honored with one of the state’s biggest December celebrations. Festivities start in front of the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad and develop into one of the longest parades in Oaxaca. Arrive early to explore the food stalls nearby before the celebrations begin.

When: Dec. 18
Where: Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Soledad

Inauguration: “En memoria a” 

Step into the evocative world of Alberto Cruz with “En memoria a…”, an exhibition that captures the essence of childhood innocence through the powerful simplicity of graphic imagery. A celebrated Oaxacan printmaker, Cruz’s work has traveled far and wide, gracing galleries across Mexico and internationally in the United States, United Kingdom, and Japan. Honored with the prestigious Takeda Award in 2016, his art resonates with universal themes and timeless charm. Don’t miss the inaugural event at El Alacrán, a vibrant art space within the collective founded by the legendary Francisco Toledo in Oaxaca. Join us for an unforgettable artistic experience!

Where: El Alacran, Murguia 302

When: 6 December  6pm

Amanda Miguel at Auditorio Guelaguetza

Rising dramatically on the hillside above Oaxaca’s Historic Center, the Auditorio Guelaguetza is more than just a venue — it’s a cultural icon. Originally built to showcase the vibrant traditions of Oaxaca’s annual Guelaguetza celebrations, the open-air amphitheater recently celebrated its 50th anniversary on November 27. This month, the stage comes alive with an exciting lineup of concerts, including a standout performance by the legendary singer-songwriter Amanda Miguel. Don’t miss the chance to experience world-class music in one of Oaxaca’s most stunning settings!

Date: Dec. 14 at 9 p.m.
Location: Auditorio Guelaguetza
Cost: Tickets start at 1000 pesos. Available for purchase online.

December at Cantinita Bar

 

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Get ready for a December full of beats, vibes, and festive cheer at Cantinita, the go-to spot in downtown Oaxaca for unforgettable nights! The month kicks off with New York’s Mr. Big Happy, spinning vinyl magic on December 7. Then, on December 18, brace yourself for a takeover by Mexico City’s Brujas, recently crowned No. 45 in North America’s @50bestbars.

Finally, mark your calendar for December 20, when the Cantinita crew and guest musicians come together for a lively Christmas Posada — the perfect way to celebrate the season with music and merriment. Don’t miss it!

Date: Dec. 7,18 and 20
Location: Cantinita Bar, below Hotel Sin Nombre

Posadas in Oaxaca

Posadas, which translates to “inns,” are processions and celebrations held during the evenings leading up to Christmas Eve. They are deeply rooted Christmas tradition celebrated in Oaxaca and other parts of Mexico. A posada is a re-enactment of Joseph and Mary’s journey: pilgrims arrive, request shelter and are refused — all in song. After several exchanges, the doors are opened. Inside, the host has prepared gifts of sweets and fruits and as a finale they break a piñata.

In Oaxaca, a posada is also the term for when families and friends also gather for festive Christmas parties — so get down and enjoy some traditional winter snacks and delicious ponche if you’re in town. 

Date: Dec. 16-24
Location: Various; a good option is 6:30 p.m. at the church of San Matías Jalatlaco

Radish night

Noche de Los Rábanos, or Radish Night, is one of Oaxaca’s most popular December events. It dates back to the 1800s when vendors carved radishes to draw attention to their stands at the Christmas market. In 1897 it was declared an official competition. Now huge radishes are grown especially to carve into fantastic sculptural scenes such as the Last Supper. The event has become very popular, attracting over 100 contestants and thousands of visitors. 

Date: December 23
Location: Zócalo, Oaxaca de Juárez

Las calendas del Niño Dios

For Christmas Eve, known as La Noche Buena, churches in central Oaxaca organize parades known as calendas. Each church is represented by different colored lanterns.

At the heart of the calenda is the baby Jesus, led by his madrinas (godmothers) to the main square in front of the Cathedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. They circle the zocalo four times and then return to their host churches. Then Jesus is placed in a manger in time for the beginning of midnight mass.

The calenda typically starts around 8 p.m. at each church, reaching the cathedral by around 10 p.m.

Date: Dec. 24 at 10 p.m.
Location: Zócalo, Oaxaca de Juárez

Festive light show and markets

During the lead up to Christmas, Oaxaca city puts on a festive light show in front of Santo Domingo Church. This is a fun way to start an evening downtown, watching the lights, with a a hot elote and a warming drink.

During the day there are seasonal markets. One of the largest is located on Alcala, just north of Santo Domingo Church. These tent-covered stalls offer artisan crafts and specialty Christmas foods.

Date: Month of December
Location: Plaza de Santo Domingo

Winter wonderland

About an hour from Oaxaca city, the Pueblo Mágico of Mitla hosts festive celebrations beginning around the middle of December, lasting until the first week of January. The beautifully decorated town square has a small ice skating rink and a stage with nightly performances by local bands. It is a perfect festive trip for the whole family. 

If you don’t want to go all the way to Mitla, Parque El Llano in Oaxaca city also has an ice rink, food vendors and nightly performances. 

Date: Month of December
Location: Mitla and Parque el Llano in Oaxaca de Juárez

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

The post Whats on in Oaxaca in December appeared first on Mexico News Daily

Día de Muertos is a vibrant time to visit Mexico and Oaxaca in particular. People celebrate the dead with ofrendas, decorating graves, homes and altars to receive the spirits of their departed loved ones. Offerings include photos of the dead, candles, bottles of mezcal and tequila, food sugar skulls and thousands of orange marigolds, known as in Mexico as cempasúchil.

Day of the Dead celebrations can be traced back to the Mexica. They honored the goddess Mictecacihuatl, or the Lady of the Dead, who is said to have allowed spirits to travel back to earth to visit family. They remembered their deceased with offerings, including flowers.

The word cempasúchil, comes from the Nahuatl words cempoalli, meaning “twenty,” and xochitl, or “flower.” Therefore marigolds are the “flower of twenty petals.” The legend goes that these flowers were gifted to the Mexica people by the sun god, Tonatiuh, so that they might honor their dead.

Flowers symbolize the brief, ephemeral beauty of life. They are an essential element of the Day of the Dead ofrenda. They are used in the construction of the floral arches, garlands, wreaths and crosses. As well as decorative uses, these sun-colored flowers are also used in Day of the Dead rituals.

Though many different flowers are used in Day of the Dead celebrations, cempasúchil is particularly significant.

With their bright color and rich fragrance, cempasúchil are believed to attract souls of the dead. Families will scatter the orange petals to lay a path from their front doors to the home altar. In smaller towns, people may create a floral path from the cemetery to their front doors guiding the dead back home.

The petals of the marigold are also thought to have cleansing properties. A cross on the floor allows for souls to be cleansed when they pass it.

Visiting the beautifully adorned altars and giving cempasúchil as offerings is how visitors can respectfully participate in the Day of the Dead celebrations. Building your own altar to celebrate past loved ones is also a thoughtful way to immerse in this tradition.

Once the Days of the Dead have past, the vivid altars, arches and garlands of bright cempasúchil are taken down. Although fresh flowers may be fading, they can still be saved and used. Drying and storing the flowers can be a great way to decorate the next year. They will hold some of their color and musky odor.

Dried cempasúchil can also be used for dyeing textiles. If you visit the weaving town of Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca following Día de Muertos, you will find piles of these orange flowers. They are allowed to dry and used year round to make a deep yellow dye.

To extract the dye you just need to add the dried flowers to boiling water, like a big pot of tea! After just a few moments the yellow dye emerges from the flowers. To get a bold result of dyeing cotton, you need to prepare the fabric using a mordant, then just add to the pot of stewing flowers. After about an hour you should have a rich yellow textile.

As well as the traditional, artisan work found in Teotitlán del Valle, many contemporary Oaxacan designers explore dyeing with cempasúchil at this time of year. Orígen Textil produces beautiful garments, as well as offering workshops to learn about using natural dyes like cempasúchil.

Cempasúchil flowers can also be infused to make a tea — or a syrup for a seasonal cocktail. They can also be distilled with agave to make a delicious style of mezcal. The process of making mezcal distilled with flowers bears some similarity to the traditional ‘pechuga’ mezcals, also made following Day of the Dead.

Adding the petals, or whole flower heads to the distillation of agave will lend the final spirit amazing floral aromas and a complex taste profile reminiscent of ‘amargo’ spirits. It is delicious as a sipping mezcal or mixed into refreshing cocktails.

Mezcal brands like La Jicarita, Bozal and Salvadores have been producing this cempasúchil spirit.

Speaking to Salvadores founder Sal Palacios, he explained that their cempasúchil edition was inspired by Day of the Dead. “The aromas of the cempasúchil during Día de Muertos really brings nostalgia in my heart. So I decided to make a spirit distilled with cempasúchil, with tejocote and mandarins.”

He enjoys drinking the Salvadores Cempasúchil neat, in a vela glass, “taking the time for the mezcal to speak to me, bringing memories.”

Brooks Bailey designs cocktails for Rambling Spirits. He suggests using the Salvadores cempasúchil as the base for your negroni, with campari and dry white vermouth, garnished with a spray of expressed orange zest. Freeze a marigold flower in the ice cube to make this cocktail extra special!

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

The post Celebrating cempasúchil after Day of the Dead appeared first on Mexico News Daily

Día de Muertos – November 1-2

There are Day of the Dead-related activities all over the state for those interested in taking part in this tradition. Try a cemetery visit: after dusk on either day, visiting a cemetery in downtown Oaxaca city like the Panteón Genera or the Xochimilco cemetery, or one further out, like those in San Felipe or Xoxo. There is often live music and intimate performances. Visitors are welcome to walk through the cemeteries. 

For something more lively, stay in the city, where the streets are bursting with comparsas, or parade troupes. To find them, just listen for the drums, but you can also try Jalatlaco at 7:30 p.m. on Nov. 1 or Xochimilco at 7 p.m. the next day. 

In Etla, you can dance until dawn in a haze of wild costumes and brass band music in the muerteadas, or visit homes where doors are open to the parade to share memories of the departed while sipping mezcal.

Mercado Atemporal – November 1-2

This beautifully curated market presents products by contemporary Mexican designers. Hosted at Casa Murguía, which you may recognize from its usual use as a venue in Oaxaca’s wedding destination scene. They have amazing decorations, great food, mezcal and music from local DJs. Free entry from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. at Calle Murguía 103.

Mezcal Fest Mexico – November 1-3

The tenth edition of this meeting between art, gastronomy and fine spirits. Mezcal Fest México is a tribute to culture and sharing traditions through drinks. Runs from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Entry is 200 pesos.

Full Moon and Mezcal – November 15

On every full moon, distillery Casa Ancestral hosts an evening event where they invite guests for a three course meal designed by a celebrated chef. Then guests have the opportunity to learn about the mezcal process and see an agave cook by the light of the full moon. Be sure to book in advance.

Vela de las Intrépidas – November 15-17

The Zapotec communities of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec are famous for the muxe, a third gender in their culture. Assigned male at birth, muxes assume female social roles, such as taking care of elderly people. They are celebrated every year during a festival known as the Vela de las Intrépidas. The first day includes a parade with floats and muxes riding horses, showering the crowd with gifts. Later comes the main celebration, where the Queen is crowned. Everyone is welcome, but remember to dress for the occasion!

Mazunte Jazz Festival – November 15-16

For over a decade, the Mazunte International Jazz Festival has been held in this small beach community, with pure and fusion jazz and rhythms such as trova, reggae and rock. There are opportunities to taste Oaxacan food and purchase local crafts, as well as participate in a turtle release and other eco-friendly events. There are also other activities such as yoga classes, art exhibitions and pre-Columbian dance performances.

Guelaguetza del Mar – November 1-30

This seaside Guelaguetza’s artistic, gastronomic, cultural, sporting and musical activities are projected to attract thousands of local, national and international visitors. The celebrations will be in various locations along the Oaxacan coast and will include events such as the Coastal Dance Festival in San Pedro Mixtepec on Nov. 16 and 17 and International Surfing Tournament and the Zicatela Mexican Pro 2024 International Surf Tournament. 

Patricia Belli at Parallel Gallery – Through December 15

Parallel Gallery presents “Osuario,” an exhibition of two new pieces by Nicaraguan sculptor Patricia Belli. This installation evokes a range of meanings about the idea of death as a confluence that subsists beyond pain, sadness and rage, and as a presence that persists.

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

The post What’s on in Oaxaca this November? appeared first on Mexico News Daily

Most pre-existing non-alcoholic tequilas have been made with an attempt to taste like the agave spirit, without using the iconic plant as the raw material. It was important for Hamilton and the Casa Lumbre team that Almave celebrated agave from the start of the process.

Casa Lumbre founder, and master distiller,  Iván Saldaña says, “anyone that wants to make something that tastes like agave should be using (agave),” even if the desire is for something non-alcoholic.  Almave, branded as “beyond proof”, pioneers this perspective. 

It was Hamilton who approached Casa Lumbre with his vision for an agave-spirit he could drink without feeling the effects of alcohol. Hamilton explained to Saldano that if he drank, it was tequila. But he wanted to be able to have a tequila without the impact of alcohol. And he wanted to respect the raw material that is iconic for both tequila and Mexico, agave. 

Together Hamilton and the Casa Lumbre team worked on the concept. Saldaña explains that “creating the sensation of agave spirits, not just taste, was important”. Fortunately, “agave is a very generous raw material.”  

They wanted to rely on the natural ingredient of agave as much as possible, roasting and distilling the plant as you would do in traditional tequila. Fermentation is skipped, which means no alcohol is generated while still allowing the flavor of the agave and traditional cooking methods to be forefront. 

Saldaña says that he already had a lot of the ideas for how to make a non-alcoholic tequila, but it took working with Hamilton to realize them. Most of the work went to plan, but mastering the nuances of production was a challenge. Particularly varying temperatures and pressures in the process. “The devil is in the details.” 

As they could not rely on the natural preserving qualities of alcohol, they needed to find other ways to make it stable. Fortunately they have succeeded in only using “trace natural preservatives”.Saldaña suggests that unopened it could be fine indefinitely. However, the taste may change. 

Once opened it should be refrigerated and drunk within a few days. This makes it particularly different from traditional spirits when it comes to consumption. 

After two years in research and development they completed the recipes for both a blanco and amber presentation of Almave. These launched in the United States at the end of 2023.

Saldaña explains that it is not all about reaching non-drinkers. The Almave target audience is the “professional drinkers who care about their health.” People who opt into socializing but want to wake up fresh. 

Almave can be drunk straight, over ice as it is enjoyed by Hamilton in the marketing materials. It is also suggested to be an alternative to tequila in a cocktail, or even as an accompaniment. Have a half strength margarita, with Almave to boost the agave flavor. 

As well as the non-alcohol presentation, Saldaña says that Almave also boasts being “6 times less calorific than a traditional tequila.” There are small amounts of natural sugars, which are necessary for adding structure to the mouthfeel. 

As a world class athlete, Hamilton could be a poster for the target audience of Almave. This makes sense, as he is not only the face of the brand, but the backer and the motivation behind its development. 

Hamilton is by no means the first celebrity to get behind agave spirit production. Agave spirits that have been pushed by celebrity backers include Dwayne (The Rock) Johnson, George Clooney and Kendal Jenner. In the non-alcoholic category, Danny Trejo has brought one to market.  

Often celebrity brands often have a bad reputation, considered to be mere marketing exercises. However, Saldano, who also collaborates with Lenny Kravitz and Maluma says this does not have to be the case:

“Producers can choose to commercialize by selling out to big companies. Although celebrities also bring money to the table, it is the personal message they bring that is important.  A celebrity that makes environmentally conscious choices will share this through the products they back.”

Saldaña explains that a new concept like Almave, a 0% alc tequila made from fresh agave, is not the most obviously bankable premise. Therefore this is a passion project for Hamilton, creating his vision of a tequila he can drink without the effects of alcohol, and Saldaña, inspired by the chance to innovate a new product in the agave spirit category. 

Although Almave currently leads the way for non-alcoholic agave spirits on the market, and was developed to emulate tequila, it is worth pointing out that there are other interesting products on the way in this field. Saldaña hints at developments in the Almave collection, maybe a mezcal? 

A new-to-market mezcal inspired 0% agave spirit is Tomonotomo. Like Almave, they also work with raw agave. Instead of the blue weber, typically used with tequila, they have opted for tobala. This is a fruity, sometimes floral agave, a favorite with mezcal drinkers. 

Non-alcoholic agave spirits such as Almave and Tomonotomo are bound to raise a few eyebrows and questions amongst those passionate about the agave category. The price point in particular of non-alcoholic spirits is often one of those queries. Almave comes in at between 36 and 40 USD for the blanco and amber respectively. This is similar to traditional tequilas on the market.

Saldaña defends the price as a reflection of the innovation, man-hours, energy and raw materials involved. He says that 65% of the liquid is direct from the still, which is a higher percentage than many traditional tequilas. Saldano also explains that to support this Casa Lumbre presents Almave as a premium position product, even if 0% tequila seems like a departure from tradition.

Saldaña describes himself as one of the biggest promoters of good agricultural practices. At the same time he believes in more than one approach. This liberal perspective has led him to value innovation in the agave sector and sees a non-alcoholic option that celebrates the raw material as relevant and positive next step. 

He explains that his work “has and always will be polemic” and that sometimes “innovation bothers people.” As long as “we don’t damage nature or erode society we should not stop exploring.” 

Saldaña defines the premise of Casa Lumbre as “a platform to transmit the biology, traditions and culture of Mexico”. This is clear in their earliest products Ancho Reyes and mezcal MonteLobos. From there they have worked on many new concepts and brands. Some of these lean towards the more commercial, but they also push boundaries of the established market. This is what Hamilton and the Casa Lumbre team have succeeded to do with Almave. 

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

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Mexican sugarcane rums are different from Caribbean rums in that they are generally produced using not molasses but fermented sugarcane juice. There are two prominent styles of this type of spirit in Mexico. The first is charanda, made from either molasses or fresh-pressed sugar cane. This spirit has a protected appellation of origin (AO), and can only be called charanda if it’s produced in certain parts of Michoacán.

A second style is locally called aguardiente, also known as Mexican agricole. Much of this liquor comes from mountainous areas in Oaxaca, where fresh-pressed aguardiente de caña is made in a manner akin to Martinican rhum agricole and Brazilian cachaça.

Sugarcane was first brought to Mexico by the Spanish. Over the next century, liquor production grew rapidly. Despite its popularity, Mexico’s growing liquor industry was hit by a royal prohibition to protect public morals and the interests of Spanish merchants, driving production underground.

Fortunately, as with many alcohol prohibitions around the world, people found a way to keep recipes and traditions alive. In Mexico, people made rum at home in secret small pot stills. This activity has kept the legacy of rum in Mexico alive.

Centuries later, Mexican sugarcane rum hit another hurdle with the introduction of NAFTA in 1994. Major transnational alcohol brands arrived with aggressive prices, marketing and branding. Mexican companies adjusted their prices to compete with foreign brands, going for volume over quality. This in turn reduced their margins and options for innovation. Overall, these developments led to a stigma of low quality around Mexican cane spirits.

In the past decade, consumer preferences have begun to change. A major shift towards craft production has swept through the liquor industry, with mezcal serving as the movement’s poster child. Underdog spirits such as raicilla and sotol have been on the rise, and Mexican sugarcane spirits are not far behind.

Small-batch cane spirit production draws many comparisons with traditional agave spirits. Production facilities are often far from the cities. Distillation traditions vary by location, creating a wide diversity of style and flavor. Ellisandro Gonzalez, who produces Dakabend sugarcane rum, explains that “rum from this part of the land will taste different than the next because the soil is different [and] the microclimates are different.”

Alongside Dakabend, Camazotz is one of the first of the new wave of Mexican rums reaching the international market. It was developed by Melanie Symonds, founder of Quiquiriqui mezcal, and partner Charles Koutris. Together they have led the way for deeply flavorful craft sugarcane rum to reach the United States, United Kingdom and beyond.

Symonds explains that she became interested in the idea around 2016.  “There was a lot of industrially produced aguardiente de caña in the region, which isn’t great, but occasionally I’d visit a village to meet a mezcal producer and someone would bring over a plastic bottle that had the unmistakable smell of an agricole-style rum, something I have always loved!”

She asked the mezcal producers she works with to keep an eye out for small, traditional cane spirit producers. This went on for over a year, due to the challenges of reaching these producers whose products rarely made it out of the local area. She explains this was “much like mezcal back in the early 2010’s when you could drive off from Oaxaca city and follow the smoke plumes in the hills and there you’d find a magical palenque making beautiful liquid, untouched by the grubby hands of commercialization.”

In 2018 she was given a trio of samples made by a producer from a remote, steep, area of the Sierra Mixe, in eastern Oaxaca. Symonds remembers that “as soon as I opened one of them, there was the unmistakable smell of agricole.” This unique profile is what she then pursued for her sugarcane rum brand, Camazotz.

The day after she tried the sample, she took off on a four hour journey to the highest region of Oaxaca. “We arrived and met the producer of the rum, Leoncio Gaspar, at his family home, along with his wife and son. Leo learned to make rum from his father and has worked most of his life making rum at the family ranch, Punto Fiero, in the valley next to his village.”

Gaspar and his family grow their cane organically, without using pesticides or fertilizers. It takes approximately eighteen months to reach maturity and reaches up to three meters. Gaspar and his team harvest the cane by hand.

The area of Gaspar’s distillation is extremely remote, you need to hike for several hours down a mountain trail to reach his ranch. The setup at Punto Fiero hasn’t changed since his father was head distiller. They have a mule pulled cane press, fermenting tubs and a clay pot for distilling.

The press he uses at the family ranch is around 80 years old and is worked by Gaspar and the mule. The cane is fed into one side and pulled out of the other side, this is repeated to maximize the collection of the juice. One kilo of sugarcane yields approximately 700 milliliters of raw juice.

The juice is collected in a tub ready for fermentation. Symonds describes how “a bunch of the crushed cane is always added to the juice to kickstart the fermentation.” This helps the ambient yeasts relied on for this artisanal process. The ferment takes around 5 days to a few weeks, a time frame dependent on the outside temperature at the time of production.

Symonds says that the surrounding flora and fauna also have a dramatic impact on the wild yeast and therefore the flavor imparted through the fermentation. The ranch is surrounded by a very old wild banana plantation which plays an important role in the development of the unique flavor found in Camazotz.

The challenges for Symonds and Camazotz have been significant. “I can’t explain the difficulties of getting this rum to where we have,” she says, “from the remote location and hard work to produce the rum, trying to navigate a truck on the clifftop trails to collect it, to the ridiculous taxes and legal restrictions in place when you try and export. It’s way harder to export than mezcal because it does not have an AO. Mexican Customs have no idea what it is and we have had instances where they won’t let it leave port because we don’t have a certificate from the AO governing body. Hopefully as more people discover Oaxacan rum, this will change and it will become easier.”

Since Camazotz launched in 2019, they have sold to the USA, UK and Europe. Symonds also recognises the appeal for mezcal lovers “because of the hand made process and the similarities in how terroir affects the flavor.”  She accepts that it “definitely helps having Quiquiriqui as the sister brand as it opens up introductions and often, where people say they hate rum and only drink agave, we find once they try it they are converted!”

She was reminded of launching her mezcal brand before many people knew what it was. It’s exciting and it feels extra special when you know the hard work it takes to get that liquid into a bottle. Leo’s face when we first took him a labeled bottle with his name on was also a special moment.”

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

The post More than mezcal: How Oaxaca is producing world class rum appeared first on Mexico News Daily

A great place to start exploring Oaxacan street food is in the city’s markets. Most are open every day from dawn ‘till dusk, although I recommend going in the mornings. Dive in and you can find a rainbow of fresh produce and beautiful artisan goods.

Which Oaxaca street food markets are best to visit? 

My favorite market spot is the food court at the Mercado Merced, off Calle Murguía. The first tables you come to are catered by Fonda Rosita. The family makes amazing chilaquiles that come still bubbling in a casserole dish: layers of tortilla chips, herbs and cheese in spicy red or green sauce. I usually get my chilaquiles with a couple of fried eggs on top.

The largest market in Oaxaca is the Central de Abastos. It’s home to a huge expanse of stalls, more or less organized into different sections such as fruit, flowers, clothes and carpentry. There are also some great spots to get classic street food. The sprawling market can be a little difficult to navigate at times, so it’s helpful to explore with a guide who can help you start out picking from the wealth of different options available. 

Recently Netflix shows such Street Food Latin America have highlighted the food of Doña Vale. She makes delicious memelas, a perfect morning snack. Memelas are a small, soft corn base spread with refried beans topped with crumbled queso fresco or stringy quesillo. One from Doña Vale will run you between 20 and 30 pesos each.

Tlayudas

Tlayudas are an iconic Oaxacan street food. My favorite tlayuda spot, Dos Cielos, makes an awesome one with ribs, folded and grilled over a flame. You can also pick up tlayudas in the markets, but these are usually open faced and can be a little dry or chewy to my taste. 

A famous place to be immersed in the smell of barbecue is the Pasillo de Humo, or Smoke Corridor, on Calle 20 de Noviembre. Walking through this area, you can immediately see where the name comes from. The air is full of smoke and the smell of cooking meat is all around as each vendor tries to entice you to their spot.

A treat to have after a big plate from the Pasillo de Humo is a cup of cold tejate from La Flor de Huayapam. Tejate is a pre-Columbian drink made from maize, cacao, mamey pits and cacao flower, served in a beautifully painted jicara gourd for 20 pesos. 

Tamales

Tamales are made from masa, a dough of nixtamalized corn, usually with some kind of filling such as mole. A great way to try Oaxacan mole on the move!  

One of the best places to get tamales is the Sanchez Pascuas market. Nestled close to the entrance, steam pours from a big cooking pot. You can grab a stool and squeeze up alongside the pot to eat them there and then, piping hot, or have them bundled up in paper to take away. The chicken amarillo tamales served inside a corn husk are delicious, as are the rich black mole ones served inside a fresh banana leaf. 

Other popular tamale fillings include Rajas which are roasted poblano peppers, beans and a Oaxacan herb called chipil.

Tacos

The street tacos you typically find in Oaxaca are rolled in soft tortillas sometimes referred to as blandas. Find the best in front of Carmen Alta church on the corner of García Vigil and Jesús Carranza.

Tacos del Carmen is a Oaxaca institution. They have been serving tacos and quesadillas of chicken tinga, chorizo with potato, squash blossom and mushroom since 1977. You can get a glass of agua de jamaica to go with your tacos, or grab a mezcal margarita from La Popular next door. These tacos run out, so don’t go too late. 

If you’re looking for a fix later in the day, Tacos Roy or La Flamita Mixe offer great al pastor tacos. Carving the meat straight off the ‘doner’ like trompo, this style stemming from Lebanese roots.

Late night tacos at Lechoncito del Oro are essential. These are tacos filled with succulent slow-roasted suckling pig. The loaded tostadas are also amazing, if a little difficult to eat after a few drinks. 

Desserts

Once you have filled up,  you might be looking for dessert. The streets of Oaxaca, of course, have plenty to offer. 

During the day it’s well worth visiting the Plaza de las Nieves in front of the Basilica de la Soledad. Nieves are ice cream and can be either water or milk based. The flavor options are endless: some are to be expected, such as fruit, cacao or even mezcal. Others require a bit more thought, such as quesillo, tuna or the mysterious “Beso de Oaxaca.”

Grabbing a box of fruit with lime and chili, or a roasted banana slathered in condensed milk from roving vendors are also great ways to get a sugar fix. You’ll hear them coming by the sound of the steam whistle.

Chefs and foodies have long been making the pilgrimage to Oaxaca City to experience the profound flavors. Michelin has awarded stars to Oaxacan restaurants and chefs. However, there is more than just fine dining to enjoy in Oaxaca. Quite simply, the street and market food here is some of the best in the world!

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

The post How to experience the best of Oaxaca’s street food scene appeared first on Mexico News Daily

This makes Oaxaca the state with the most land area affected by fires so far this year in Mexico.

Since early May, wildfires have threatened communities and reserves in Oaxaca’s Tlacolula Valley, including the protected Area Voluntarily Destined for Conservation (ADVC) “El Fuerte.”

Helicopters have been seen transporting water from reservoirs near Santiago Matatlán to battle the blazes. Some reports indicate 20,000 hectares have burned in the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán biosphere reserve, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in both the states of Oaxaca and Puebla.

The fires are exacerbated by an overwhelming drought in Oaxaca, intensifying the severity of the situation. Barbara Garzon of eco-cultural organization Zapotrek, which has been coordinating donations of water, food, and face masks, told Mexico News Daily that “what little rain we’ve been blessed with is not enough.”

Local communities say government has been slow to respond

On May 18, San Pablo Villa de Mitla authorities announced that the latest fire was controlled. Their statement praised the volunteer efforts: “After thirteen days of intense and brave volunteer work by women and men, the forest fire which occurred in our territory has finally been extinguished.”

However, locals have reported slow governmental response, leading to three blockades near the communities closest to the fires: Unión Zapata, Rancho de Lago, and San Dionisio Ocotlán.

Locals attempted to suppress the blaze independently, but this carried risks. On Feb. 5, five men died trying to control a fire in nearby San Lucas Quiaviní. The communities called for federal intervention, requesting the Program for Emergency Response to Natural Threats and the DN III-E Plan, which outlines the Mexican Army and Air Force’s disaster relief activities.

Reforma newspaper reported that on May 11, residents of Villa de Mitla detained Víctor Vásquez Castillejos, head of Oaxaca’s Ministry of Culture, to demand more governmental effort in fighting the fires. Protesters intercepted him at a blockade and held him overnight at the municipal palace. He was released the next day.

Leodegario Monterrubio, a protester interviewed by Quadratín Oaxaca, emphasized the need for government support, stating that communal efforts alone were insufficient to fight the rapidly spreading fires. He highlighted the necessity of helicopter assistance, noting the area’s ecological importance, which includes sightings of jaguars and pumas.

The government eventually responded with twelve brigades from Conafor and National Commission of Protected Natural Areas (Conanp), who fought the fires directly and created fire breaks. Community members from Unión Zapata, San Miguel del Valle, San Miguel Albarradas, Santa Catarina Albarradas, and San Pablo Güilá de Santiago Matatlán also assisted. Two helicopters were deployed to bring water to the active fire fronts, with additional reconnaissance aircraft surveying the area.

Despite these efforts, fires have continued to blaze across Oaxaca and the rest of Mexico. As of Friday, there are 109 active forest fires nationwide, in 24 states.

Deforestation, land clearing and human actions to blame

While climate change contributes to the current water scarcity and drought in Oaxaca, human actions are blamed for the majority of the forest fires according to the Forest Commission (Conafor) and Environment Ministry (Semarnat).

They identify the primary causes as accidental (e.g., power line breaks, car accidents), negligence (e.g., uncontrolled agricultural burning, campfires, burning garbage), and intentional actions (e.g., conflicts, illegal logging). Deforestation and land clearing for urbanization, mining, or agave growing exacerbate the situation, making landscapes vulnerable to erosion and further drought.

However, recent rainfall offers some hope for controlling the fires and preventing further spread. Organizations like Zapotrek are now shifting focus to reforestation efforts in affected areas.The ADVC “El Fuerte” plans reforestation activities starting in July.

How to report a fire

Reporting fires can save not only human lives, but vital forests, which are crucial for regulating water cycles, purifying air, and maintaining a stable climate. Allowing them to disappear through negligence or intentional actions can lead to negative weather cycles and a loss of vital resources.

Conafor’s 24-hour forest fire hotline number is 800 737 00 00 and 911 can also be dialed for assistance.

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

The post Locals fight fires and slow government response in Oaxaca appeared first on Mexico News Daily

I first visited Oaxaca over 20 years ago. My family and I took the bus over the mountains from Oaxaca city to the town of San Pedro Pochutla, near the coast, which serves as a hub to reach the numerous bays near Puerto Escondido. As a British teenager, the Oaxacan beaches were as close to paradise as I could imagine, with their turquoise waters, towering palms and tropical vibes.

Over the years since then I have explored many of Oaxaca’s most popular beaches, as well as some of the more hidden ones. I have driven, bussed and flown in a tiny Aerotucan plane. Nowadays regular flights to Puerto Escondido and Huatulco from Mexico City have increased the amount of visitors to each and driven the expansion of local infrastructure. 

Huatulco

Huatulco has long been known as more of an Acapulco-style resort location, developed by the National Fund for Tourism Promotion (Fonatur). Deterred by this reputation, I didn’t visit until recently. However, Huatulco has nine bays and 36 beaches, many of which are still virtually untouched by tourism. 

Last time I went I was based in La Crucecita, a small town slightly inland. From there I walked to bays like Entrega, Violin and Maguey.

Unlike the high rise hotels that you find in other parts of Huatulco, Entrega has more of a family feel. It was busy when I was there on a Sunday in the December high season, but it felt quite local with fishermen offering fresh clams and oysters.

Violin isn’t far from Entrega, up the main road and then down a steep path to reach vivid blue waters. If you can make it, you will likely have the beach to yourself.

From there, the walk on the footpath is a tough and very exposed one. There are tours that take you through the eco reserve, stopping at amazing beaches like Cacaluta. It is important to be cautious here, as this wild beach has small waves but often a strong undercurrent. Some days it’s not possible to swim at Cacaluta at all, so do check the conditions. This beach was used for scenes in Alfonso Cuarón’s “Y Tu Mamá También,” a story about chasing the dream of remote paradise.

The furthest point I walked to was Playa Maguey, which was sweet and peaceful at the end of a challenging road hike. If you aren’t up for the hike, getting around by boat is the easiest way to find the more remote bays. One particular bay I have spent some wonderful days in is San Agustin, known to have some of the best snorkelling in Mexico.

The first places I went with my family were Mazunte, San Agustinillo and Zicatela. Unsurprisingly, these places have changed over the years, with more restaurants and hotels. Yet they still preserve their unique personalities, as do many of the bays that stretch along the coastline of Oaxaca.

Mazunte

The first place I ever stayed in Mazunte was an eco-lodge on the hill overlooking the bay. There was no electricity, and it really felt like a hidden oasis. Now it has become a favorite with travelers looking for wellness retreats and a place to meet other travelers. Mazunte is the only one of Oaxaca’s beach towns designated as a Pueblo Mágico. It is also home to the National Mexican Turtle Center at the community-managed Laguna Ventanilla.

There are technically three beaches in Mazunte: the main beach, Playa Mazunte, which then curves around to Rinconcito and Playa Mermejita. I have spent the most time at Rinconcito, where the beach dips quickly into deep water. Although deep, the beach is protected, so you can float in the water without worrying so much about currents. 

Being protected means you don’t get much of a sunset at Mazunte or Rinconcito, but you can take a paddle board round to Punta Cometa to see a spectacular one at Oaxaca’s southernmost point.  Round the point of Cometa is Playa Mermejita where there is a growing scene of boutique hotels. Mermejita is not safe to swim, but its black volcanic sands and amazing sunsets give it a magical quality.

For a truly relaxing beach vacation, San Agustinillo is perfect. The village being a fifteen-minute walk from Mazunte means you can find the social aspect of Mazunte when you want but can go back and chill in San Agustinillo when you need a break.  I usually stay to the point furthest right of the bay, where the fishermen hang out by their boats in the afternoon before surfing in the evening. 

These fishermen also offer dawn trips in their boats to see the area’s abundant marine life. I’ve had amazing experiences with Pacifico Mágico tours, seeing whales, turtles and rays and swimming with dolphins. 

Zicatela

Zicatela is one of Oaxaca’s best-known beaches. Located near the Puerto Escondido airport and bus terminal,  it has a great food and nightlife scene. Nicknamed the Mexican Pipeline, Zicatela is a professional surf destination during the summer and fall. It’s not safe for swimming, but walking the beach’s shore is beautiful, as waves rise up to reveal fish and rays like a window into the ocean.

If you are looking for beaches further from the beaten path in the vicinity of Puerto Escondido, to the west are Playa Bacocho and the hidden Playa Coral. About a 30-minute drive east is Agua Blanca. If you are driving the new highway, it’s a short drive, exiting at kilometer marker 172. From there, it’s approximately two kilometers to the beach. 

Agua Blanca

Following last week’s drive on the highway we settled in Agua Blanca, staying at a newly-built boutique hotel called Casa Utopia del Mar, perched at the far right of the small town. It seemed like we had that bit of the beach to ourselves, enjoying dawn, dusk and the eclipse in peace. The ocean was a bit rough to swim, but with a private pool overlooking the beach we had the best of both worlds. 

Agua Blanca has stunning rock formations just off the shore that create rock pools perfect for exploring. It is also the best place I have been for oysters, where you can get fresh food at most of the small restaurants nestled along the coast. We shared some mezcal at one of these local spots called Cocodrilo, where we spotted owner Luis García opening oysters with a hatchet. 

García moved to Agua Blanca in 2016 when it had still felt very secluded. “The reason I moved to Agua Blanca is because it is a very quiet place,” he told me. “At night all I can hear is the ocean waves and the water moving making splashes.”  In 2022, he developed his restaurant. “This place is very famous because of the oysters. The people also go fishing and free diving for their own seafood like octopus and lobster.” 

With regard to the new highway, García said that he knows the place will change eventually, but for now “no place is comparable to the beauty of Agua Blanca.”

Despite development, Oaxaca is still full of hidden secrets

Undoubtedly we will see considerable change as the Oaxaca coast opens up to tourists beyond its most famous bays. More and more of my friends are choosing to visit beaches near Puerto Angel that still have a fishing vibe, instead of the classic surf beach combo of Zicatela, for example. 

Other favorites with travelers who are happy to commit the time to get off the beaten path include the lagoons of Chacahua and the dunes of Chipehua. These are both several hours from Puerto Escondido and Huatulco, respectively. 

My friend describes the experience of visiting Chacahua: “The magic is taking the collectivo boat about 45 minutes through the mangroves and arriving where the lagoon meets the sea. When you get off the boat there is only one way to go, and that’s towards the ocean side. You can instantly spot anyone who just arrived based on the confusion on their faces while they’re trying to decide which cabana they want to stay in. Everything is cash. If you run out there are no ATMs but you can buy cash with your card at the supermarket for a 10 percent fee.”

Chacahua is a location that locals and those in the know guard fiercely. Hopefully, the opening of the road will encourage more people to discover the diverse beauty of the Oaxaca coastline while respecting the areas they are visiting. 

The road is free to use for everyone until September 2024. After September, it will continue to be free for state residents with Oaxaca-registered cars, but a toll will be put in place for everyone else. The easiest way to make the journey is via ADO coaches, which run every 1-2 hours and cost 299 pesos.

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

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Oaxaca state lies in a mountainous region that stretches down to the southwestern border of Mexico. Oaxaca de Juárez, normally shortened to Oaxaca, is the state’s capital and largest city. Like many before me, I fell in love with the vibrant atmosphere, eclectic architecture and the overall vibe of the city.

Known for its delicious mezcal and sumptuous mole, Oaxaca is also a hub for beautiful textile and ceramic crafts. The city boasts colorful markets, numerous galleries and cultural centers. Lately there has been a wave of new boutique hotels, rooftop bars and trendy cafes. 

With many structures dating back to the 16th century, the city has a strong connection to its history. In the last decade or so, a wave of new builds and renovations has added a contemporary flare. 

I knew I wanted to be outside of the hustle and bustle of the historic center, which was becoming busier and more expensive every year. I eventually decided on a spot about a thirty minute walk from downtown with a more residential feel and beautiful views of Oaxaca city.

Fortunately, buying in the area was relatively straightforward. With the help of a local attorney, I completed the private sale, first making a deposit and then following with the rest of the full amount a couple of months later. I am a permanent resident in Mexico, which also helped make these transactions smoother, although it is possible to buy without being a resident. 

Why are people investing in real estate in Oaxaca city?

During the COVID-19 pandemic, it became easier to get temporary residency through a process called normalization. It is clear that since the pandemic there are many more people looking to move to and buy property in Oaxaca city. 

Mary Aquino of Re/Max Cantera, a brokerage in Oaxaca, explains that “there are many factors why not only locals but also foreigners are becoming more and more convinced to invest in the state of Oaxaca. In the case of locals, they are investing in the outskirts of the capital city, while foreigners are investing within the capital city due to its tourism and gastronomic appeal. While it is true that the prices are not cheap, it is a good investment for the future.”

Aquino considers the key areas that are growing include “the city center, El Tule, Huayapam, Etla and some of the most emblematic neighborhoods: Xochimilco and Jalatlaco.” In my opinion, San Felipe and Guadalupe Victoria are also areas with significant development. Each of these areas have their own identity and are suited to different living and working requirements. Recently, a wave of friends have moved further from the center to areas like Etla, El Tule and San Felipe.

The Etlas, El Tule and Xochimilco 

The “Etlas” are several small communities about a half hour’s drive from Oaxaca city. Many people have moved there to be part of the creative network that has grown there. It is also an area with more water than most, which is a sought after commodity in Oaxaca.

Santa María del Tule, also known simply as El Tule, is a peaceful suburb famous for its massive Montezuma cypress tree. The town boasts market stalls and restaurants, as well as a bike track that takes you into Oaxaca city. 

Most of my friends with children have moved to San Felipe. Rebecca Bailey, founder and editor of the Qué Pasa Oaxaca cultural guide, explained that she considered San Felipe “because we have a lot of friends there and it’s close to schools. Even though it’s kind of famous for wealthy politicians, there are lots of young families there because there are a lot of houses with gardens.”

The historic center

As Mary Aquino mentions, Oaxaca city’s two most emblematic neighborhoods are Jalatlaco and Xochimilco; east and north of the historic center, respectively. With cobblestone streets and striking street art, they are extremely charming. 

Price per foot changes drastically depending on the distance from the city center. Aquino estimates a price per square foot in Oaxaca’s historic center at 2500 pesos, while the nearby area of Xochimilco is 1500 pesos per square foot. If the property has a luxury amenity such as a pool, expect this to be doubled. 

John Harvey Williams, owner-partner at Real Estate Oaxaca, notes that “Real estate values in Mexico are the sum of the value of the land and construction.” “Land in Jalatlaco,” Williams says, “is valued at around US $100 per square foot. Construction is valued from zero for a tear-down to around US $75 per square foot for the finest quality construction and finishings.”

Empty lots in Jalatlaco, however, are few and far between. “I can think of only a half dozen that are empty now, and none of them are for sale,” Williams told me.

According to Dolores Pérez Islas, general director and CEO of the real estate investment company Silmexico, explains that prices in Oaxaca’s historic center start at US $180,000 for a two-bedroom, two-bathroom house. Homes in a great location on one of the neighborhood’s main streets in the main square command anywhere from US $800,000 to $1.5 million. 

The carefully preserved colonial architecture, Pérez added, “gives a magic touch that every owner wishes to obtain. It’s surprising that there are still places like Jalatlaco, since it looks like it did 100 years ago.”

Value also depends on the legal and preservation status of the structure or land.  Restoration should be carried out in compliance with guidelines provided by the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH’s) Oaxaca division, which dictates the preservation of primary features and the original layout.

Guadalupe Victoria

Guadalupe Victoria is an up-and-coming area of Oaxaca that has ejido status, meaning that the land is communally owned. In recent years, there has been considerable construction in the area. Architect Tom Van den Bout, who has several projects in Guadalupe Victoria, describes ejidos as self-governed and largely independent — from Oaxaca City, for instance. Some ejidos are truly communal, co-owned and regulated by all residents. Others, like Guadalupe Victoria, are still run by the founding families but allow sale of land to outsiders and all sales are registered with the ejido.

With over thirty years of experience, Van den Bout found the process relatively straightforward. However, the terms of buying land with ejido status can vary. According to Van den Bout, “Any ejido that is comunal would be virtually impossible to purchase into. Every resident would need to agree to the sale and agree in perpetuity. Your ‘purchase’ could be reclaimed at any time and living there often requires a form of community service. Most ejidal land beyond those near Oaxaca city, such as Guadalupe Victoria, is communal.”

Other things to consider when investing

The coast of Oaxaca is an area with similar complications when it comes to buying land. Per the Mexican Constitution, foreigners cannot own land within 100 kilometers of a land border and 50 kilometers of a beach. It is possible, however, to acquire property in this restricted zone through a fideicomiso (trust) or by constituting a  Mexican company. As a buyer, you will be designated as the primary beneficiary. Aquino explains that “there are several companies offering this service and it actually works very well, but it can be a bit pricey. However, it provides much more peace of mind and confidence for buyers.”

If you are considering buying property in Oaxaca, Van den Bout suggests “looking closely to be sure the land can be legally sold and a deed will be issued in the buyer’s name.” 

Aquino recommends buying privately when possible, ideally with a certified real estate agency. “Certified agencies are attached to a government institution that fulfills the function of safeguarding the rights of sellers and buyers.” Real estate brokers such as Remax or Silmexico take on the task of investigating the legal status of the property to prevent the client from having problems in the future. There are also excellent land use attorneys in Oaxaca.

Anna Bruce is an award-winning British photojournalist based in Oaxaca, Mexico. Just some of the media outlets she has worked with include Vice, The Financial Times, Time Out, Huffington Post, The Times of London, the BBC and Sony TV. Find out more about her work at her website or visit her on social media on Instagram or on Facebook.

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